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Posted (edited)

Dont you think?

 

In the last Rock n Ice. There was an article about Will Gadd doing some sick horizontal dry tool climb that is really a sport climb. It showed him extended fully with his legs off the wall. The caption read another climber has had to get longer ice axes to make the same move.

 

Go go gadget arm, how contrived is that?

 

Edited by kevbone
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Posted
Dont you think?

 

In the last Rock n Ice. There was an article about Will Gadd doing some sick horizontal dry tool climb that is really a sport climb. It showed him extended fully with his legs off the wall. The caption read another climber has had to get longer ice axes to make the same move.

 

Go go gadget arm, how contrived is that?

 

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Posted
Yes....that may be true. I just wanted to talk about it with actual ice climbers….for I am not that guy.

 

Hi all you golfing enthusiasts! I've never golfed before, but it sure is a stupid waste of time of a sport! How dumb- hit a ball, walk after it, hit it again. What fun can that be?

 

Don't you all agree with me that it's stupid?

 

:wave:

Posted

Dry tooling/ ice climbing, what the frickin difference? Besides the lack of ice. Both are contrived, but I would say dry tooling is truly contrived. Someone was bored the day that was invented.

Posted

What your title to the thread states and what you discuss are two different things. I think I can justify that almost all aspects of climbing are a bit contrived. I may agree with you a little more that dry-tooling a sport route without any ice is more contrived than say, putting up three sport routes within ten feet of each other, but to say that ice climbing is contrived and then discuss dry-tooling a sport route, then I think you may have missed it Kevbone.

 

Everyone will argue what they feel is right, but yes, as a mediocre ice climber, I would have to say that what Gadd did was contrived. Now with that said, I would think sport climbers would have more of an issue with what he did than anyone, especially if it scarred the rock or changed holds on route. I see dry tooling on established areas/climbs as bad juju, but I also see a place for dry-tooling just as I see a place for gym climbing.

Posted

Alright Kevbone, I'll bite... How can ice climbing possibly be contrived? The difficulty of ice perhaps is contrived, but the pursuit is about as pure as they come. How often do you find a rock route where passage is only possible a few days weeks months a year. Ice lines are natural and beautiful, often even more so than a perfect splitter crack.

Posted
Dry tooling/ ice climbing, what the frickin difference? Besides the lack of ice. Both are contrived, but I would say dry tooling is truly contrived. Someone was bored the day that was invented.

 

Definitely. They were probably on a really hard mixed route and got really bored just sitting there freezing their ass off looking up at a hard rock pitch. Rather than dying there or backing off, as they should have done, they invented this new stupid sport and continued upward. As if that wasn't enough, they had to go and invent stupid paraphenalia like mono points. Shit, come to think of it, even front points are contrived. Lame.

Posted
How can ice climbing possibly be contrived? The difficulty of ice perhaps is contrived, but the pursuit is about as pure as they come. How often do you find a rock route where passage is only possible a few days weeks months a year. Ice lines are natural and beautiful, often even more so than a perfect splitter crack.

 

Ouray has the only ice park where a mile of farmed ice is available to climbers right in the city limits, easily accessible and free to all who enjoy this exciting sport.

 

How is farmed ice be natural and beautiful?

 

Posted
More or less contrived than sit-starts?

 

About the same I would say.

 

I really meant to say dry tooling, and that specific article.

Who placed the 15 bolts on the route? I know it was not put up on lead! So its rap bolted (which I have no problem with), and they are F…ing up the rock by slamming there axes and crampons into it. This I have a problem with. Don’t get me wrong…..I have much respect for these crazy climbers, but it seems it is very contrived.

 

What’s the difference between extending your ice axe and simply having a bolt ladder and aiding your way to the top?

 

Posted
Hey buddy.

Ever try to bolt a horizontal roof on rappel? It doesn't work

 

Ok….so not on repel. So they dogged there way up it and hung on the previous bolts. That would explain by the bolts are so close together?

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