Chad_A Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Whadda you guys talkin' about? I climbed ice all day in the Gorge!!! Either your screws are too long...or your vision is too short. Haha, well, the rest of us are mere mortals, Superman! Good for you for getting out. It's funny you should say...on the way home, I took a look at the stuff that was there, and I told my pal "it's climbable...if you're Marcus or Wayne". Go figure:) Anyway, here's some pics I snapped on the way through the Gorge this evening. The Ainsworth area looks incredible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 It was 79-80 that the Multnomah almost came into our dreams. The line 30 feet to the right became a low volume diversion channel and did come in. Jeff Thomas got 200 feet up it and called it"The Once and Future King"That winter had a 2 month long cold blast! I am curious to read more about this. Today we were scouting the gorge through wild eyes and day dreaming about the "what if's" of Multnomah ever coming in during our life time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 It was 79-80 that the Multnomah almost came into our dreams. The line 30 feet to the right became a low volume diversion channel and did come in. Jeff Thomas got 200 feet up it and called it"The Once and Future King"That winter had a 2 month long cold blast! I am curious to read more about this. Today we were scouting the gorge through wild eyes day dreaming about the "what if's" of Multnomah ever coming in during our life time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 What about the 'biner the old OMC had in their case that broke on a 212' lead fall on Multnomah Falls? Anyone know this story? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 What about the 'biner the old OMC had in their case that broke on a 212' lead fall on Multnomah Falls? Anyone know this story? Shit, I'd like to know that story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackman Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 (edited) I did a little scouting today too. Finished by soloing on the lower right side of Crown Jewel. Very wet . Very fun . It will go all the way to the top if you're so inclined. Bad self-photos Looking Up Looking down More photos from the day http://picasaweb.google.com/Holscher.Tim/GorgeIce20070114. Edited January 15, 2007 by Crackman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 ...or your vision is too short. Vision check: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 (edited) Just got back from Mist. It was reasonable! I'd hit it early... even though it was freaking chilly, in spots the ice was really soft and wet (climber's right). The rest of the area, specifically the "main" line headed up slightly left, looked pretty fun. Saw a couple on it and nothing looked to be crumbling under them. Not sure how long this will last though. Oh yeah... and there are more gorge lines to be had. Certainly not going to go down in history as great conditions, but there were several spots that looked like they'd go. It's out there, you just gotta look! Edited January 15, 2007 by Kevin_Matlock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 There's plenty of ice out there. Just need to head out and do some exploring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Just got back from Mist. It was reasonable! I'd hit it early... even though it was freaking chilly, in spots the ice was really soft and wet (climber's right). The rest of the area, specifically the "main" line headed up slightly left, looked pretty fun. Saw a couple on it and nothing looked to be crumbling under them. Not sure how long this will last though. Oh yeah... and there are more gorge lines to be had. Certainly not going to go down in history as great conditions, but there were several spots that looked like they'd go. It's out there, you just gotta look! is this area (Mist) also known as the 'Apron'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 fheimerd and I checked out Mist falls today; way fun but be sure to bring your raincoat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Ah, this is the place. Kevin Matlock: I think we crossed paths yesterday. We had a little bit of an epic trying to wrap off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Yeah, probably me. I was the lone gumby bouldering around at the base. Were you the man/woman team? Looked like a lot of fun. I was drooling to get on your rope but didn't want to horn in. What was your issues... couldn't run the v-thread? On that side I was on I ran some screws in to see if a thread would be an option.... it wasn't. Got maybe 10 or 12cm of a 17cm screw in before it bottomed out. Figured it would be a safer time just to stay low since I couldn't solo up and rap off. Oh well, still learning ice skillz anyway. Also noticed both my tool tips took a pretty bad beating even in that relatively short time I was on the ice. Musta been bashing rock that was much closer to the surface than I thought. If you ever need a 3rd, pm me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Yeah, probably me. I was the lone gumby bouldering around at the base. Were you the man/woman team? Looked like a lot of fun. I was drooling to get on your rope but didn't want to horn in. What was your issues... couldn't run the v-thread? On that side I was on I ran some screws in to see if a thread would be an option.... it wasn't. Got maybe 10 or 12cm of a 17cm screw in before it bottomed out. Figured it would be a safer time just to stay low since I couldn't solo up and rap off. Oh well, still learning ice skillz anyway. Also noticed both my tool tips took a pretty bad beating even in that relatively short time I was on the ice. Musta been bashing rock that was much closer to the surface than I thought. If you ever need a 3rd, pm me! Yes, we we're the man and woman team. I kept trying to make eye contact to see if you wanted a ride. Don't be so shy next time! We weren't sure what you were up to... but noticed you had nice gear!! Went out today. Total sh*t conditions, IMHO. Now I'm depressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillA Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 My dog was down there climbing. She's pretty sick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Yeah, probably me. I was the lone gumby bouldering around at the base. Were you the man/woman team? Looked like a lot of fun. I was drooling to get on your rope but didn't want to horn in. What was your issues... couldn't run the v-thread? On that side I was on I ran some screws in to see if a thread would be an option.... it wasn't. Got maybe 10 or 12cm of a 17cm screw in before it bottomed out. Figured it would be a safer time just to stay low since I couldn't solo up and rap off. Oh well, still learning ice skillz anyway. Also noticed both my tool tips took a pretty bad beating even in that relatively short time I was on the ice. Musta been bashing rock that was much closer to the surface than I thought. If you ever need a 3rd, pm me! Yes, we we're the man and woman team. I kept trying to make eye contact to see if you wanted a ride. Don't be so shy next time! We weren't sure what you were up to... but noticed you had nice gear!! Went out today. Total sh*t conditions, IMHO. Now I'm depressed. Oh yeah, The weather tunred quickly causing v-thread issues and gear to freeze within about five minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceslut Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 (edited) after reviewing some of the recent pics of gorge ice, one might suggest that our outing before work was a bit silly, but at least it was ice climbing. sastrugi and i ravaged the Cape Horn area at dawn this morning. i led some ghetto ice and we toproped the adjacent waterfall (mostly falling) before tumbling down the hillside back to SR14. the water was falling...not us. Edited January 17, 2007 by iceslut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 My dog was down there climbing. She's pretty sick. Cute! Saw you as we were leaving the other day. Wondered who was going to belay who??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 after reviewing some of the recent pics of gorge ice, one might suggest that our outing before work was a bit silly, but at least it was ice climbing. sastrugi and i ravaged the Cape Horn area at dawn this morning. i led some ghetto ice and we toproped the adjacent waterfall (mostly falling) before tumbling down the hillside back to SR14. the water was falling...not us. Good to see everyone getting out and getting some Just a heads up for the Cape Horn area... a lot of those climbs are accessed via private property. PLEASE be conscious and aware of where you park your car as well as crossing private property. You do have cross some PP to access some of those so please be as secret as possible EVEN if it means parking farther away and/or walking through the woods longer to stay out of sight. Good example: the gate to the road to park near crown jewel is locked this year is because people were parking in plain sight last year. Keep a low profile and enjoy the ice in your backyard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceslut Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 (edited) do you have some rough guidelines of what is private property in that area? i was not aware of this. cheers. good to know...just reviewed a map and it appears we were within the GP National Forest. Edited January 17, 2007 by iceslut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Climbs above the highway itself are fine (just make sure to park out of the way) however a lot of the climbs that are below the highway require one to drive down to the water... some of the roads to reach the water are public but a few of them (forget the names) are private... they have many signs stating it is a private area/land... don't park on that road... do the car shuttle thing. Next time I am out there I will make it a point to write down the name or perhaps Marcus or Wayne or one of the guys can remember off the top of their head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 I was down there a couple days ago. You can drive down the Cape Horn RD? Its the first road on the right (heading east) immediately after the upper tier climbs. However, there is a sign posted that says parking anywhere on this road is high discouraged (whatever that means). Probably the best strategy is to park further back and just walk along the rails like the guidebook indicates, might be a bit of a walk though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 after reviewing some of the recent pics of gorge ice, one might suggest that our outing before work was a bit silly, but at least it was ice climbing. sastrugi and i ravaged the Cape Horn area at dawn this morning. i led some ghetto ice and we toproped the adjacent waterfall (mostly falling) before tumbling down the hillside back to SR14. the water was falling...not us. Good to see everyone getting out and getting some Just a heads up for the Cape Horn area... a lot of those climbs are accessed via private property. PLEASE be conscious and aware of where you park your car as well as crossing private property. You do have cross some PP to access some of those so please be as secret as possible EVEN if it means parking farther away and/or walking through the woods longer to stay out of sight. Good example: the gate to the road to park near crown jewel is locked this year is because people were parking in plain sight last year. Keep a low profile and enjoy the ice in your backyard! Thanks for the beta and friendly reminder. Yes, the gates were locked at crown jewel as we scouted there this morning. Also, new fence additions that apparently did not exist last year. Does this mean park at the next exit and bring your tandem bike?? -or- maybe Kevbone can thumb it to cause a diversion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 That is the road. You can drive down it... my advice would be drive down and dump a partner and your kits and then drive back up and park your car at either the very first pull out on the road (yes this makes for a long walk) or even better on the highway. Bring a bike and cruise back down. Make sure you get in the trees ASAP and stay in them till you are clear of the resort (i.e. they can't/won't see you). Not doing this will result in enforcement/tickets/etc for all of us Long walks are better than no being allowed to ice climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Does this mean park at the next exit and bring your tandem bike?? Park at rooster rock and hike or bike it. Suck but it is better than not being allowed to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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