iceslut

Thanks for the info! We postponed our ascent attempt scheduled for this morning due to the unusual avy forecast. Headin' up next week instead.

Any beta on the recent condition of the pearly gates? I realize that the current forecast will likely keep things dynamic. Thanks!

i drove up from portland to meet my friend from couer d'alene in banks over the weekend. we hit pee wee's for a day 'cause the deathcicles didn't impress us. had some interesting times fightin' the brush, but overall made a full day's adventure out of the day. ice was peelin' off the headwalls a bit, but there was enough solid ice to make it fun. needs some more cold. can't believe the access there...will definitely be back to try the climbs that weren't formed.

most people.

This weekend saw some traffic so the boot pack up the hogsback is well established. The old chute was softening up pretty good in the late morning. All this, of course, could vary significantly depending on the weather this week. If you take the pearly gates, each variation has some water ice that slowed folks down quite a bit. Hope the weather turns in your favor.

brief comments on today's summit via the pearly gates: - the left variation (not the old chute) is a breeze if you have an extra tool. - there was a significant traffic problem in the chute that might be solved if someone would just haul up some signals. - and a special note to one climber: while it was certainly forecast to be a nice day... blue jeans?! skull

this "hair raising" down step that you mentioned...is it in a section of the summit ridge that one would intersect coming from the old chute?

thanks...i have played up in the icicle creek drainage on a couple of occasions, but i was not aware that mountaineers creek was also in the vicinity. from the photos, it reminds me of some old stomping grounds in montucky.

i have never been to mountaineer's creek. for next year, what is the route from portland to this impressive ice arena? thanks!

super! i climbed mean green last year and found it to be a real gem. the whole area is amazing.

thanks for the thoughts. i have family in montucky; if i'm visitin' it helps to let them know in advance so they can prepare for my greatness.

regarding Lillooet...how does the area hold up through the year "usually"? I am trying to plan a mid february trip with a friend and we wanted to go somewhere different than montucky (where we are both from - he still lives there). canada seemed like a good bet, but if the ice conditions aren't anywhere near dependable, i might choose to avoid the guessing game and go with what i know. any thoughts are appreciated. and yes, i am aware that ice is unpredictable.

only if there is sun...

btw...anyone know what the thin (as in not wide) two-tiered climb next to and above SR14 is called? just past Cape Horn? it looks fun and the base is merely feet from the road - WI 3/4.

do you have some rough guidelines of what is private property in that area? i was not aware of this. cheers. good to know...just reviewed a map and it appears we were within the GP National Forest.

after reviewing some of the recent pics of gorge ice, one might suggest that our outing before work was a bit silly, but at least it was ice climbing. sastrugi and i ravaged the Cape Horn area at dawn this morning. i led some ghetto ice and we toproped the adjacent waterfall (mostly falling) before tumbling down the hillside back to SR14. the water was falling...not us.

yesterday i mimicked the driving, weeping and "wow...if only that was in" game. anyway, we drove up SR14 to the BOG and back down the Oregon side of the gorge. nothing got us out of the car. lots of ice, but nothing thick enough for me to climb. if you had some imagination and a creative opinion of living, you might find something to play on.

Howdy, my companion dropped his yellow shovel w/o handle below 8500' on Hood yesterday on or east of the cat track (often used by climbers skinnin'/snowshoein' on the ascent). the name "stadlmann" is written on it. PM me if you have any information on its whereabouts.

hunker down and hang in there.

whoops...sorry 'bout the formatting.

Climb: southfork ice, wyoming-high on boulder, mean green, broken hearts Date of Climb: 2/3/2006 Trip Report: even though we have been having some fun on gorge ice as of late, i jetted down to wyoming and met my old montana friends (chris & brice) on the southfork of the shoshone. three days of climbing found us on some of the best routes i have ever climbed. big multi-pitch ice in a beautiful setting. the routes we climbed ranged from WI3 to 4+, though the flows often offered varied difficulty. each day we probably climbed 200-300 m of ice! on the final day we had the pleasure of climbing with joe josephson, author of winter dance, on a nice sunny day. it was brice's camera, but we all took photos. enjoy! Gear Notes: screws, v-threads a requirement for rappels Approach Notes: reasonable approaches with very little snow

me and sastrugi climbed the leftmost obvious line above Cape Horn yesterday (~30 m). the upper pitch looked like it had been big, but was coming down with the sun. the first pitch was a little thin at the top (albeit strong) so with a little solo pitch of ice we put up a top rope and had some good climbing. it would take screws, even 16 cm, but it was in full sun while we were climbing. bluebird day, sunrise over the oregon side, and the mighty columbia in the background. a couple hours of fun climbing and back to portland by 10:30 am! if we could always be so spoiled. photos provided by sastrugi...

hey...love climbin' at pete's pile, but have never seen ice. where are the formation(s) located? thanks for any info.

my partner (the general), took all the photos, as he is a just-less-than-professional photographer. i will have to wait for him to cough 'em up. as far a TR goes, we went there and stayed at the window rock cabin 0.5 mile from the trailhead. i had never stayed there before and i would recommend it with one caveat - the wood stove leaves a little to be desired. i have operated many a wood stove in my lifetime and this one has issues. that said, we were there to climb ice and had no expectations of warmth. the night of arrival we decided that we could not wait until the next day, so we drove to the trailhead at 10 pm and hiked 15 minutes to the genesis 1 area. there are some shorter WI 2-3 climbs that were just perfect for a nighttime warm-up by headlamp. we climbed for the next two days - mostly on WI 3-4 routes. one popular route worth mentioning that we never got to is hangover, it looks good and fat. i had never used leashless tools before this weekend, and after climbing the scepter with them, i am a solid convert. in conclusion, if you can get there, go. i also heard from my montucky crew that ice around cody wyoming is goin' off....

Climb: Hyalite Canyon- Date of Climb: 2/27/2005 Trip Report: for all those folks in the NW looking for ice, hyalite canyon outside of bozeman montucky still has plenty of ice. the weather this weekend was absolutely fabulous and there are a myriad of climbs that are still FAT. relaxin' to grippin'. one i would highly recommend right now is the scepter (WI 5-, 100'). get out of oregon and washington and visit the gallatin nat'l forest! it did me a hell of a lot of good! Approach Notes: drive to TH