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OlegV

[TR] Mt Hood - Castle Crags 12/19/2006

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Here's some beta on the Hogsback route:

from SummitPost...

 

My advice to a first timer would be to

1 - wait until May or June

2 - hire a guide or go with someone who knows what they're doing

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Here's some beta on the Hogsback route:

from SummitPost...

 

My advice to a first timer would be to

1 - wait until May or June

2 - hire a guide or go with someone who knows what they're doing

 

thanks for the link to betta :moondance: I wanna do that!!!!!

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muffy, have you ever done hood?
I have stated on several occasions that i am as of yet not a mountain climber, I am a rock climber. and a shitty one at that.

 

 

 

 

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No you are not a shitty rock climber. You are just a rock climber just like so many of us.

 

It is most important in this game that one have the mental capacity to keep ourselves safe. Which means knowing both your own limitations and the potential for external issues (like rockfall, bad weather, issues, etc etc) .

 

You are all that. I've known 5.11 climbers who are shitty climbers.

 

A shitty rock climber would be an unsafe person. I have known a few. But you are not a shitty rock climber Muff.

 

I suspect you'd also be good company on a mountain, you might suck some of these folks into inviting you along if you are interested.

 

Practice practice practice self arrest first.

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No you are not a shitty rock climber. You are just a rock climber.

 

It is most important in this game that one have the mental capacity to keep ourselves safe. Which means knowing both your own limitations and the potential for external issues (like rockfall, bad weather, issues, etc etc) .

 

You are all that. I've known 5.11 climbers who are shitty climbers.

 

A shitty rock climber would be an unsafe person. I have known a few. But you are not a shitty rock climber Muff. I suspect you'd also be good company on a mountain, you might suck some of these folks into inviting you along if you are interested.

 

Practice practice practice self arrest first.

 

I am interested. I am slow and i can't carry a ton of weight, but i am fun :grin:

Edited by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer

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Is there going to be a pay-per-view?

 

I'd pay, but ya gonna have to get the background dudes doing all the finger waving out of the picture as they do nothing for me.

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Guys! The south side of Hood is nothing but a walk-up! Don't be intimidated. People 'climb' it in running shoes. In fact, going light is a key to the Hogsback. Going through the Pearly Gates is another matter. Three weeks ago MtHigh and I retrieted of the Devil's Kitchen HW variation due to ice fall, finishing via the right shoulder of Hogsback and the Pearly gates. We encountered sweet 50-55 degree alpine ice and the Gates was a 10 ft icy step. So, if you are a novice, I would recommend the West Crater Rim variation as a direct finish - it's just a snow slope.

 

Here is another shot of Yocum a couple of days ago - morning and afternoon ones:

S-Yocum1-2-3A.jpg

S-Yocum1.jpg

 

 

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Hey Oleg, nice TR.

Looks like a lot of fun Ivan. Glad we didn't go to Smith then? ;)

Edited by miker

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So, if you are a novice, I would recommend the West Crater Rim variation as a direct finish - it's just a snow slope.

 

Not to be a school marm but I have a lot of respect for the WCR after it killed 1 through massive trauma and hurt others in an avalanche in 1998. Evaluate carefully, esp on sunny days after a storm. It can be a great ski otherwise.

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Agree, Iain. There is no easy way up the Hood anymore. The Pearly Gates have changed and require a move or two of the technical climbing.

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Sorry to jump in and hope Im not hijacking, but your TR photos are very interesting. Is there a post or picture anywhere on the board that gives detail to a snow shelter? Would really like to see one of these (other than a diagram) to get a decent visual of size and construction.

 

Did a search but didnt have much luck.

 

T.I.A.

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no one has a picture?

Either post this as a new topic or pick up a copy of FOTH they have several good pictures of them.

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smart a$$ Dan. "Snow" Shelter is as large or as small as you want it.

 

Where the hell have you been dan? You getting back to the gym soon?

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So anyone know if Bob Martin is still kick'n his feet somewhere? He did the first ascent of the Castle Crags, as I was told be my Father. I think back in the '80s. Props Olegv! Awesome pics...that one on the rime is it just effects of Alpenglow or is it a slight after effect of infared?

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