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old screamer question


genepires

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So I got some old yates screamers that are maybe 8 years old that haven't been fallen on. They get about 2 weeks of use per year that consists of hanging on the harness or ice screws. Yeah I know that nylon degrades with time and so forth. Common sense says dump them. Someone will claim I should give it to them to "dump it for me". But I was just wondering if these screamers are as bad as I suspect they are. Seems like the 1" nylon would make them safe for much longer. Any opinions? Any actual experience on older screamers? Any intersting tests on older screamers?

 

thanks,

gene

 

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Hmmm 8 years old. . . cost about $25 each new. . .

Sounds like you don't place a very high monetary value on your life.

Why not test them and post the results?

RBW, this is a tired, old retort. "Oh, if you don't want to spend x dollars replacing them, you must place a cheap price on your life." It has been valid at times - I remember someone asking if an activated screamer could still be used as a regular sling!

But come on. I, for one, simply don't like buying things unnecessary, especially when that money could go towards gas so I reach the mountain that I want to climb with the gear I've already bought!

So I think Gene's question is entirely valid, and I'm interested in hearing his reply. I've also sent an email to Yates to see what they say...

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Cut and paste where I said his question wasn't valid.

 

If he was talking 2 or 3 years my reply would have been different. We are talking EIGHT years here. I'll bet you a beer Yates tells you to replace them.

 

I, personally, would be interested in seeing him test the strength of these and posting the results. Chris Harmston used to do this all the time.

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OK rbw, don't get your panties in a wad, these screamers are not on my rack anymore. Was just getting the winter rack ready and saw these two old screamers. Wasn't planning on using them but was seeing what others thought of older screamers. Maybe discussion on this would make others retire screamers.

 

Good idea with asking yates. Anyone around here got a good testing machine and interested in a free sample?

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Don't bother with a testing machine. You got a couple right? Test ONE. Clip it to the rope with a quicklink, clip it to a big beefy bolt with another quicklink, and give it a good Factor 1 fall with a backpack of rocks dropped from above the bolt. If it holds that the other ones are still good. If it breaks retire the other ones.

 

And post the video of the test to YouTube!

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After reading this topic I went out and bought 10 quickdraws to replace the ones I've had on my rack for 10+ years. It cost me a whopping $40.

 

FWIW my old draws have always held although for the past 5 years I've made a mental note of not to fall when using the super tattered ones.

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I spoke with Matt at Yates Gear yesterday. This was his email response:

 

Chris,

 

Thanks for the info on the e-mail address. I checked with our service provider, and they had changed some settings, but it should be able to receive e-mail now. I only got the first part of your message, the rest was cut off when it was forwarded. The answer to the part that I received is that we suggest a 5 year life in service on all soft goods. This means that after the product is first used there is a suggested 5 year use under normal use. There is a maximum shelf life of 10 years. I have attached manufacturer recommendations for our products. The 3 years for the Shock Absorbing Lanyards refers only to our industrial shock absorbers and is related to the OSHA standards. If you have any additional questions please let us know. Thanks, Matt

 

Matt Hardy

Customer Service

Yates Gear Inc.

 

I have the PDF he sent, and if anyone can give me directions on how to attach it, I will do so.

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Don't bother with a testing machine. You got a couple right? Test ONE. Clip it to the rope with a quicklink, clip it to a big beefy bolt with another quicklink, and give it a good Factor 1 fall with a backpack of rocks dropped from above the bolt. If it holds that the other ones are still good. If it breaks retire the other ones.

 

And post the video of the test to YouTube!

Dru, I know you are in tongue-in-cheek mode here, but I should point out that there are two issues to consider with screamers. The first is the ultimate breaking strength of the sling once it has been activated. But the other issue is the activation force and the energy dissipation. Is the device going to reduce impact force as much as it did when it was new? It would take a more sophisticated test to do that.
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RBW, this is a tired, old retort. "Oh, if you don't want to spend x dollars replacing them, you must place a cheap price on your life." It has been valid at times - I remember someone asking if an activated screamer could still be used as a regular sling!

But come on. I, for one, simply don't like buying things unnecessary, especially when that money could go towards gas so I reach the mountain that I want to climb with the gear I've already bought!

So I think Gene's question is entirely valid, and I'm interested in hearing his reply. I've also sent an email to Yates to see what they say...

 

Have you ever taken a fall on a screamer? :wave:

 

If you question it, replace it. Or sell it to some dumb smuck.

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