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Posted

I think the blog editor made a big mistake in not distinguishing between the interviewer and the interviewed. Also, this article was special-written for Outside magazine, who has a markedly different audience then, say, Alpinist.

Posted

in unrelated drift.. I know the real "Spicoli", the model for the movie character. He's a friend of mine, went to high school w/ Cameron Crowe (who wrote the screenplay). He's still a serious character, but now a 50 y.o. father of two in commercial real estate! Still a sick surfer, though and one of the funniest people I have ever met.

Posted

Sorry, I thought I smelled some indirect CO slandering, which I see a lot here and annoys me. I enjoyed a lot of years living in Boulder, Eldo, CB and Aspen area, have a connection to the land there and miss it. But it's good here too.

 

Slander in general is something I'm not that into, so yeah I agree that the blogger is barking up the wrong tree. Steve House's achievements speak for themselves, and he has by example raised the bar for everyone, along with sharing his techniques/gear/training/mindset which as an ongoing body of work has value and is inspirational, not to mention his climbs which bring it all together and show the truths he has gained through work and experience. I've never met him, but am cheering him on from my small corner. I have met Bruce Miller though, he always seemed pretty rational and his climbing was very solid; I hope things are cool between them by now. It's kind of like Krakauer writing about Everest (to pick an example); it's folly for me or anyone else who was not a direct party in such (or any) events to comment or make judgement upon the players at hand.

Posted

I like Colorado too. I especially loved the Platte and the Sangre's.

 

He also has a special message for kayakers:

 

"I just am not a boater, I guess, I like being lean and athletic and somewhat pleasing to the opposite sex, and the water sport enthusiasts I have met seem to be aimless fatboys who use gravity rather than fight it. I have a hard time hanging out with them."

 

Blasphemy. Blasphemy I say!!!!

 

From what I've seen there's actually a fair number of boaters who climb and vice versa. Take our very own Jarred Jackman, for example:

 

The lip

CRW_0060.jpg

The Drop

CRW_0068.jpg

 

http://riverlog.blogspot.com/

Posted

Boulder has definitely gotten "funnier" in recent years, almost a parody of itself in some ways socially, but the land and the climbing (and the convenience to all that good stuff) is always the epic reality. Living in the "Swiss Chalet" on the cliff in Eldo spoiled me for good.

 

There are still a lot of good people in the area too, but over the years the balance of the vibe/focus shifted from a nature focus to a $ focus, like a lot of other places too. Bummer.

 

And more on Spicoli- he is a climber and a snowboarder!

Posted

slander would imply an inaccurate characterization.

 

CO has a disproportionately loud voice relative to resources in climbing & ski media, akin to SoCal in the surf world

 

Of course it is slander because GoOutdoors is a magazine of canadian dumbass yutzes. It's what Dru would do if he stopped spraying.

Posted
There's one other thing that sets House apart: his tongue. In recent years he's made a name for himself as America's leading advocate for alpine-style climbing—and as a relentless critic of anyone who doesn't climb that way.

 

 

 

Posted

Honestly.......

 

........He reminds me of Twight.......tons.

 

And of myself, because I just can't keep my mouth shut about certain things...lol

Posted

That's funny what he said about Thomas Humar. Steve was just up here in AK a few days ago giving a slideshow. I ran into him at the Alaska Rock Gym and got to boulder with him for about two hours also.

 

I hadn't read the article in outside magazine until just now, but i did ask him what he thought about Humar. I thought he'd give the guy a little credit (not saying I think he deserves it) but he basically said the guy was legitimately crazy and weird.

 

As far as Steve being a loudmouth...I didn't see it. Then again, I don't know the guy, but from the time i spent with him, the only impression I got was just how nice and modest he was. He might be opinionated, but not in a negative way.

He's a first class guy in my opinion and deserves the credit he gets. IMO his reasonings and opinions regarding alpinism and minimalism are justified for the most part.

 

This argument has been beaten to death many times before, but the future of alpinism will always trend towards House-style ascents and not ones that resemble the seige tactics of that used on Jannu.

Posted

Steve is a star. Who cares about his public image. When he does a slideshow, we watch. When he writes an article, we read. When he is interviewed we listen. His personality isn't something that effects us or climbing in gerneral. Only what he has accomplished and what has inspired us should be why we are interested. The guy who wrote this blog has too much time dedicated towards keeping up on everyone else. Go climb.

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