sampco Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Went for a casual day of climbing on the Snow Creek Wall. At least that is what me and my partner thought. Started the day on the 10b Direct Variation only to come up on some newbies. I have never in my life seen a group so in over their heads and clueless on how to move fast. Literally they averaged 2 hours per pitch. Left my partner and another group with topping out in the dark and doing the descent in the dark. Spent 6 hours on a sketchy descent- those mother fu.....Of course the dipshits decided to camp on top. Fun... Fun... Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 You are going to get flamed for: not bailing, not getting there earlier, not negotiating a pass, not communicating with them, etc. Someone is going to say, "OS on a weekend? What did you expect?" Someone else will say, "...those climbers have just as much right to be on the route as you...". There will be some discussion about the popularity of the climb and how it lures climbers who probably aren't ready to climb the route in good style. G-Spotter will say something non-sequitur. Someone will ask if the slow climbers had their names duct taped on their helmets and were carrying lots of hexes. A few folks will chime in with irrelevant details that are the hallmark of the undercover chestbeat™ like, "Well, when I climbed OS car-to-car in 1.672 hrs without a windshirt.... Um... I forgot what I was gonna say after that." Just a heads up. This thread is gonna have legs. I can feel it. FUN! Quote
chucK Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Get some inspiration for your flame here Quote
G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Featuring the PP quote Yup telling someone they suck via the internet is always hard to pass up! Quote
kix Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 'OMG, I went to disneyland this past weekend and it was crowded with tourists! how can this happen to someone as capable as me?' thanks for the trip report. nice to see good planning paying off. Quote
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 (edited) FYI...we were the first folks on the route, and we didn't see anyone up there at the base of the climb until starting the second pitch at about 0830. At least two groups arrived after 9AM. Perhaps you were one of those groups? Based on our research, and knowing it was a forecasted sunny Saturday, and a popular route, we left the trailhead at 0530 and hiked by headlamp to get an early start. We didn't climb fast, but made a point of not delaying the group behind us. The one addition to the cluster that I can comment on was on the ledge below the 2 hand-crack pitches. The lead climber on the team behind us waited 15 minutes at the ledge for my second to exit before belaying his second. He was just being polite, but could have set up a belay at the bolts on the pillar above the ledge rather than waiting for my second to clear the ledge completely. He then waited for us for approximately 3 minutes at the next ledge to build an anchor. With that said, we might have been responsible for a few minutes in the queue, but were a little shocked that so many people were arriving so late for such a popular climb. If I arrived at 9AM and found two groups ahead of me on this climb, I'd probably moved 200 feet south and done Orbit. Edited September 25, 2006 by ericb Quote
sampco Posted September 25, 2006 Author Posted September 25, 2006 Now I know why I never post on this site- too much spray. Finally they were brought up on top rope due to being in over their heads. I guess I deserved the backlash. I agree that everyone deserves a fair chance. Quote
kix Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 too much spray? what exactly was your intent with that post to begin with? just stopped in to call people clueless dipshits as way of being a respectable contributor? and then to back down immediately with out a fight? sheesh. give us something to work with here. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 too much spray? what exactly was your intent with that post to begin with? just stopped in to call people clueless dipshits as way of being a respectable contributor? and then to back down immediately with out a fight? sheesh. give us something to work with here. Something to Work With Quote
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Sampco - totally fair to be a bit pissed that someone bit off more than they could chew on such a popular route, but based on my observations, many of the folks that topped out in the dark got to the base of the climb around or after 9AM and decided to stick with their plans despite many folks in front of them...I'm assuming, unless you say otherwise, that you are one of these people???. There is ample opportunity to bail off the route on or below the belay ledge for pitch 5, and it should have been pretty obvious to the latecomers that continuing beyond this point was going to mean running out of daylight. Don't bitch about the spray on this site...you've now done 4 posts, and you are 2 for 4. If you are such a stud that you can climb 5.10b, you certainly had some less popular options available to you. Quote
flyingpig Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 sampco, you should seek out more obscure routes. Quote
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 CBS...thanks for the redirect....you will now inflate my TR views!! I do find it interesting that, by your own admission, you apparently needed to get your skills up before leading Orbit (5.8) this summer. Also, for the record, IMO, it was the party behind us that were responsible for the traffic jam...but just IMO. Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 May I have your attention please May I have your attention please Will the real slow party, please speed up? I repeat, Will the real slow party, please speed up? Uh... we're gonna have a problem here. Ya'll act like you never climbed multipitch before Hexes clangin' and taped hands sore Gettin' yer ass whooped like never before (TAKE!) It's the return of the... Oh wait, no way, you're kidding, He didn't just say, "Take" on a 5.8 did he? And Trask said... nothing you idiots! Trask is dead, he's stuffed in my haulbag! (Ha-ha!) 'Cause we're the slow party yeah the real slow party All you other slow parties are just imitating So won't the real slow party please speed up, please speed up, please speed up? Quote
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Tough call, but looks like the dipshits slept on top...we had dinner at the Alley Cafe Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 CBS...thanks for the redirect....you will now inflate my TR views!! I do find it interesting that, by your own admission, you apparently needed to get your skills up before leading Orbit (5.8) this summer. Also, for the record, IMO, it was the party behind us that were responsible for the traffic jam...but just IMO. Hey, I just asked for clarification. I did not pass judgment on you. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Went for a casual day of climbing on the Snow Creek Wall. At least that is what me and my partner thought. Started the day on the 10b Direct Variation only to come up on some newbies. I have never in my life seen a group so in over their heads and clueless on how to move fast. Literally they averaged 2 hours per pitch. Left my partner and another group with topping out in the dark and doing the descent in the dark. Spent 6 hours on a sketchy descent- those mother fu.....Of course the dipshits decided to camp on top. Fun... Fun... Next time don't ask just pass them. I don't understand it but it seems like north america climbers are the only ones that think you have to have the parties permission to pass them. Quote
johnson Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 The slow party (let me clarify who I'm writing about - not your group Eric B - although you were incredibly slow as well) should thank Samco. He talked me out of beating the shit out of the two of you up top. As for you Eric B, you and Brian should stick to the Tooth or Ingalls Peak. Lets not justify why its ok to climb Outer Space in 11+ hours. Its not ok. Quote
goatboy Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 I agree with John that faster parties have a right to pass -- but there's still details about WHEN and HOW to pass which come down to safety, courtesy, and good style, don't you think? Quote
G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 He talked me out of beating the shit out of the two of you up top. whoa dude did the roids shrivel your testicles or what? Quote
John Frieh Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 If they aren't paying enough attention to think to ask if the faster party that just caught them wants to pass then why bother? Quote
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Johnson....what time did you get to the base of the route? Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Ericb said: Who took 11 hours? Ericb said: ...we were the first ones to scramble to the base of the route at about 7 am......He joined me on top at 5:40 Quote
ScottP Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Next time don't ask just pass them. I don't understand it but it seems like north america climbers are the only ones that think you have to have the parties permission to pass them. Or use the Beckey approach and get on it first every time. Quote
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