G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Ericb said: Who took 11 hours? Ericb said: ...we were the first ones to scramble to the base of the route at about 7 am......He joined me on top at 5:40 Now now, he did say that it took them an hour (AN HOUR! ) to rack up at the base too, cause they started climbing at 8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 You guys are assholes. The other party made it safely up a route that was probably a big challenge for them. They woke up before you guys and made it to the start. WTF do you expect. I gues I have a hard time grasping your idiotic thought process. Since you suggest that the slow party held you up the entire way, I will assume you were "forced" to spend 11+ hours on route also. Since you did the bypass, you could not possibly have encountered the other party until two tree ledge. That leaves 4 "real" pitches to asses the situation. I can imagine the other party spent the bulk of their time on these pitches as they are a lot harder than the first and last pitches. So at two hours a pitch.... After the hand traverse, you rationalize that that was a hard pitch, so maybe the time is warranted. After two hours on the pedestal, you probably are getting pretty frustrated. You think to yourself, "hmm, there are two more pitches of 5.8-5.9 ahead. THe last 2 pitches of 5.8-5.9 took 4 hours. How long could the next 2 pitches possibly take?" At this point you look at your watch, the sun, or just use common sense and think "hmm if we keep going up we will be 4+ hours more on route". If my calculations lead me to beleive I would be topping out after dark, and I wasnt prepared for/familiar with the descent, I would just bail. You can probably bail relatively inexpensively from the pedestal i would think. While everything alpinefox said is rehashed tongue in cheek, I largely agree with it. The slow party doesn't owe you shit and you cocksuckers deserve all the ridicule you get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 (edited) You are worse than the press - pulling out select quotes from my TR and putting in "...." where it serves your purpose. Perhaps you should include the sentence after your first, chump. ......and we were the first ones to scramble to the base of the route at about 7 am. We took our time scouting the start of the route, fiddling with gear, donning the harnesses, and were finally climbing at 8AM Edited September 25, 2006 by ericb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingpig Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 just a thought, but fast climbing is safe climbing. climbers should get their speed up at the sunny crag before they take on a back country multi-pitch climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 just a thought, but SCW is a sunny crag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 For the record I left out some details (for my own protection) of what took place in that hour between arrival and departure. Let's just say that Dinner at Los Camperos and a Starbuck's Double Shot Espresso drink with breakfast was not a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I was gonna ask what took you a whole hour to rack up but I guess it was sorting out the 4 #2 camalots and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Somehow, some way, people have found a way to extract more spray out of this, including some chestbeating about international climbing experience. Solid effort! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Why are people such weiners? When presented with the options: a) Try to address a problem in person, when it can be solved OR b) Wait through several hours of frustration and then going home and bitching using the anonymity of the internet Why go the weiner route? Say no to passive aggression, kids. I'm just glad Johnson didn't beat the shit out of those guys at the top of the wall, that dude is a BEAST. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 You are worse than the press - pulling out select quotes from my TR and putting in "...." where it serves your purpose. Perhaps you should include the sentence after your first, chump. ......and we were the first ones to scramble to the base of the route at about 7 am. We took our time scouting the start of the route, fiddling with gear, donning the harnesses, and were finally climbing at 8AM Oh, you're right. My bad. It only took you 10 hours base to summit. Way to send dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Troggy's right. If you go to Outer Space on a saturday, you gotta be ready to share it with folks who climb faster than you, or who may be trying to pass you, or who don't do things your way at a belay, or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 man nice bowel movement chestbeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 chestbeatseat would be a good avatar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 9.667 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 The 4 gold cramalots would help deter the euro guys from clipping through your gear while ashing their cigs on your runners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingpig Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 just a thought, but SCW is a sunny crag everytime i climbed SCW it was cloudy, and far from a rescue. i don't mind slow climbers. i have passed (not a chestbeat) parties on el cap @ 3am. they gave me water, and let me sit on their p.l. if slow climbers don't let me pass, i do it anyway. sorry, my goal is to make it to the bar before it closes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 johnson, in the parlance of our times... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 johnson had better look out for those nihilists Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 international climbing experience. Is that when a Canadian climbs Outer Space? That route has given some Canadians a real hard time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 9.667 I sincerely hope 1 hour of this was spent debating the Pleistocene erosional features of the wall. Any less time is completely irresponsible. I love that there are two threads on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Is taking 11 hours on Outer Space any worse than playing in a hardcore band in 2005? That musical genre is 30-some years old, you might as well dress up in a white jump suit and do Elvis covers. Wake up Johnson, you're playing your parent's music! Not doing a half bad job of it btw, but still.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 (edited) we're talking about enormous gold camalot collections, not gold crucifix collections edit to add: excellent tie-in olyclimber, it takes two to make a thing go right... Edited September 25, 2006 by Cobra_Commander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 now that you mention it, why aren't there any chickenheads on the lower wall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 why are chickens heads on their necks and not on their feet? duh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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