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Getting worked over by a good crack


minx

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WTF is up with Libra crack? It's so short and so unclimbable (for me.) I've lead or TRed 4 other .10a routes at index, and got them all first time around. I couldn't get more than a couple moves up libra and i was on TR!

Is that thing really .10a?? Maybe my hands are the wrong size. it was too big for fingers, not big enough for hands. The intense-looking body-builder woman who climbed it right in front of us kinda scared me as well.

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WTF is up with Libra crack? It's so short and so unclimbable (for me.) I've lead or TRed 4 other .10a routes at index, and got them all first time around. I couldn't get more than a couple moves up libra and i was on TR!

Is that thing really .10a?? Maybe my hands are the wrong size. it was too big for fingers, not big enough for hands. The intense-looking body-builder woman who climbed it right in front of us kinda scared me as well.

 

The first time I TR'd it I ran up the thing. The key for me was thumb locks. I have yet to build up the testicular fortitude required to lead it.

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Yeah, Libra just HURTS for two moves, then gets reasonable. I still have a divot in my hand.

 

The Aries chimney elicited some good responses... My follower: "I almost threw up at the top." From a guy I know who had just climbed the Grand Wall: "Oh I wouldn't lead that thing." My girlfriend walked right up it though. Maybe it's all in the chromosomes.

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Yeah, Libra just HURTS for two moves, then gets reasonable. I still have a divot in my hand.

 

The Aries chimney elicited some good responses... My follower: "I almost threw up at the top." From a guy I know who had just climbed the Grand Wall: "Oh I wouldn't lead that thing." My girlfriend walked right up it though. Maybe it's all in the chromosomes.

 

the following comment doesn't change the fact that i love to get worked over by off-width crack. nothing like a good thrutch to make it a satisfying day afterall...

 

i think that the chimney on lizard is easier for those of us who are bit on the shorter side. i think we just fit better in there and can get a little deeper in the chimney so that the body position is better for working one,s way up. that said...it's a full body work out and theres clearly no need to go the gym afterwords.

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Yeah, Libra just HURTS for two moves, then gets reasonable. I still have a divot in my hand.

 

The Aries chimney elicited some good responses... My follower: "I almost threw up at the top." From a guy I know who had just climbed the Grand Wall: "Oh I wouldn't lead that thing." My girlfriend walked right up it though. Maybe it's all in the chromosomes.

 

the following comment doesn't change the fact that i love to get worked over by off-width crack. nothing like a good thrutch to make it a satisfying day afterall...

 

i think that the chimney on lizard is easier for those of us who are bit on the shorter side. i think we just fit better in there and can get a little deeper in the chimney so that the body position is better for working one,s way up. that said...it's a full body work out and theres clearly no need to go the gym afterwords.

 

nothing makes me feel as sexy as an off width grin.gif or a good Chimny... god i love cracks.

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