Weekend_Climberz Posted June 8, 2006 Posted June 8, 2006 Jeez, rub it in already Sweet Sweet pic. Now what's the route name. Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 8, 2006 Posted June 8, 2006 # Salathe' Wall / Freerider - 5.12d ** (37p: 8 5.11, 5 5.12) * FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber, 10/98 o topo (ready 11/01) o Salathe' Wall / Excalibur o uses a new 5.12a traverse and 3 previously freed Excalibur pitches to avoid the 5.13 Salathe' Headwall o used Alex Huber's variations to avoid the p19 corner and "Teflon Corner". o time: 15:25. Both climbers freed all 37 pitches. o This variation was eyed by Skinner and Piana as a "backup plan", in case they were unable to free the Salathe' Headwall o Climbing #182 * 2nd? FA - Rob Miller, Nathan Martin, 2001, 5 days * 3rd? FA - Dean Potter, 9/02, linked after doing Half Dome free He did the crux at 3:40am, using 4 headlamps (one fall, redpointed). * 4th? FA - Ben Bransby, Jvan Tresch, 10/02, 13:50 * 5th? FA - Matjaz Jeran, Miha Valic, 10/03 * 6th? FA - Steph Davis, 4/04, 4 days Led all pitches 3rd woman to free El Cap; 2nd to lead all pitches free * 7th? FA - Mike Anderson, Mark Anderson, 5/04 Mike led or followed all pitches free with no falls 6 days, including one rest day, and a day off to fly home to Salt Lake City and take an exam! they aided the Salathe' in 2002, but otherwise hadn't worked on the free pitches * 8th? FA - Steph Davis, 5/04, 22 hours 15 minutes 2nd woman to free El Cap in a day, leading all pitches started in the evening, climbed to the Alcove and slept 3 hours there crux sideways dyno above is 5.13a for 5'5" person partner - Heinz Zak * 9th? FA - Andres Cottamiata Muller, Fernando A. Ayres, 6/04 worked on the free pitches in the spring * 10th? FA - Nicolas Favresse, Seán Villanueva, Fall/04 onsighted 35 of the 36 pitches * 11th? FA - Leo Houlding, 9/05 o onsighted all but one pitch, where he took one fall (had climbed Free Blast before, but not Salathe') o Day 1: started at 10am, reached El Cap Spire bivvy at 4:20pm, 21 pitches, no falls o Day 2: started at 8am (after a cold bivvy), took one fall on p24 (5.12d crux), on top at 5:30pm o belayed by Chris Van Leuven * 12th? FA - Sean Leary, Steve Schneider, 10/05 o swapped leads to Sous le Toit ledge, then Leary led the remaining 5.12 pitches. All pitches were followed free. o Leary took one fall, leading the 5.12d Huber variation o Schneider had 3 falls, following the last 3 5.12 pitches, but returned to each belay to follow free (including reversing the 5.12 traverse). o preparation: Leary worked the route in 2004, when he nearly freed it in a day. Schneider had not tried the 5.12 Freerider variation pitches. o 3 days * 13th? FA - Tommy Caldwell, 10/05 o done in preparation for the Nose-Freerider linkup, a few days after freeing the Nose in a day o preparation: freed the Salathe' in 1999 and 2002 * 14th? FA - Tommy Caldwell, 10/05, linked with the Nose o 2 falls on p28 (5.12b flaring corner crack), partly because it was dark and hard to see the stemming footholds o 10:50 for Freerider, 23:23 elapsed time for the linkup o started at 1:36pm, on top at 12:26am o 2 hours for the first 10 pitches o on the Monster Offwidth at sunset o belayed by Chris McNamara Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 8, 2006 Posted June 8, 2006 I am pretty sure that list is missing some ascents. Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 8, 2006 Posted June 8, 2006 I am pretty sure that list is missing some ascents. Yeah, I ropegunned that 5.5 pitch at the top once. Quote
Wallstein Posted June 9, 2006 Author Posted June 9, 2006 Ya that list is missing some ascents, for sure. Its the Astroman of the next generation, absolutely incredible climbing. One of the funnest things I done in my life. Quote
Big_Lebowski Posted June 9, 2006 Posted June 9, 2006 One incredible pitch. Ya still got some pigs to haul Quote
Wallstein Posted June 9, 2006 Author Posted June 9, 2006 We wouldn't haul and climb on the hard pitches. it just to hard to climb 5.12 and haul bags at the same time. We left them a couple ropelengths below and would rap down and lower them out and jug back up. Quote
billcoe Posted June 9, 2006 Posted June 9, 2006 Wallstein: I suggest that the mods replce "Eric's Boss" with "Honemaster" under your name. Majorly nice stuff! Quote
texplorer Posted June 11, 2006 Posted June 11, 2006 Nice mike, I'll probably be in yos in late July/ early aug This kind of shizzle gets me dreamin Quote
TimL Posted June 12, 2006 Posted June 12, 2006 I might be there in late August through September. Is it too hot to climb in the valley during late August? I've only been there during the spring. Quote
Wallstein Posted June 12, 2006 Author Posted June 12, 2006 Ya its kinda hot down here then. toulumne is good though. Quote
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