RuMR Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 So...what's the hardest route of a given grade that you've done...you know, those 5.WhateverMA routes where "MA" stands for My Ass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Why don't you look up the thread we had about this on CascadeClimbers a few years ago - StuporTaco is just recycling cc.com ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 2, 2006 Author Share Posted June 2, 2006 too lazy...plus, we have new members now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Kangaroo Corner at Squamish. Maybe cuz its short (no offense RumR) but it sure doesn't feel like an 11a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 2, 2006 Author Share Posted June 2, 2006 haven't tried that one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 I think he means hardest route of given grade, not easiest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 small fingers help--it's fun, but a quick hit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 sounds like nitrous oxide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 I think being a midget helps on Kanga Corner cause you pretty much have to layback your feet up next to your hands before you make that reach up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 So I'm short and scrunchy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Kangaroo Corner at Squamish. Maybe cuz its short (no offense RumR) but it sure doesn't feel like an 11a. one move unwonder. The only gear 11 I've led Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Well hey, keep working on it and maybe you'll get the chance to lead some other 11s. Hang in there boy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 BS (5.6) in Leaveworth, the bulgy move past the spinner bolt felt like 5.8 or harder to me. IMo the biggest sandbag I've been on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Rainy Day Women. Good lord, how do you get past the upper crux? 12a? hah. Â Sagittarius is a bit of a bag at 10b I think. Â How about Numbah Ten at Index, and whatever the route at the Country right of Cunning Stunt at 12b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 The red route on the features wall has been puttin some serious smack down. No way it's 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 I recently climbed "First Blood" at Tieton which felt like 9+ to me though it is rated 5.8. I'm not very good at off-widths though. Carnival crack feels like 5.13. Â Â BTW: HERE is an older thread about sandbags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Any true offwidth is a sandbag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 BS (5.6) in Leaveworth, the bulgy move past the spinner bolt felt like 5.8 or harder to me. IMo the biggest sandbag I've been on. Â Agreed. Also Snag Crack above it is definately harder than 5.7. Â How about Libra Crack if you got big hands. The starting moves are much harder (for me) than Even Steven (which is rated 11b). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 I recently climbed "First Blood" at Tieton which felt like 9+ to me though it is rated 5.8. I'm not very good at off-widths though. I am glad that I am not the only person who felt that route is hard for a 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Or perhaps a little wider than "hand" as it's described in the guide. Slothrop seemed to have led it handily a month ago or so, maybe he'll chime in. Â I thought Almo Massacre at City of Rocks was a bit sandbagged, but maybe it was just the combination of overhanging, crimps, and fat&weak that made is seem tough for 10c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Sagittarius is a bit of a bag at 10b I think. Â ??? Â It's 9 to the lower anchors, 10a to just below the roof, 11b for pulling the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Back in my first days on the rock... Alcoa Presents at Seneca Rocks, WV. They say it's a 5.7... I learned rather quickly what all the snickering about a "Seneca Seven" was... Â Fuggin' thing felt like an old skewl 5.9, and scary, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavastik Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 BTW: HERE is an older thread about sandbags. Â Wow, 9+ pages of sandbags. <shudder> Â Okay, how about easy routes for the grade, hm? Obvious climbing, good protection, clean falls, nice solid rock... They must exist, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northwest_dad Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Didn't check the origional thread but 'Classic Crack' @ Broughton's Bluff 5.9+ (+++++++)is a suprise if you actually climb 5.9. I've seen people flash 10.b's right next to it and then get spanked on it. Chalk one up for the traddies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Sagittarius is a bit of a bag at 10b I think. Â ??? Â It's 9 to the lower anchors, 10a to just below the roof, 11b for pulling the roof. Â 10a? i guess it just turned into a bigger bag of sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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