RuMR Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 So...what's the hardest route of a given grade that you've done...you know, those 5.WhateverMA routes where "MA" stands for My Ass! Quote
G-spotter Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Why don't you look up the thread we had about this on CascadeClimbers a few years ago - StuporTaco is just recycling cc.com ideas Quote
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Kangaroo Corner at Squamish. Maybe cuz its short (no offense RumR) but it sure doesn't feel like an 11a. Quote
chucK Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 I think he means hardest route of given grade, not easiest. Quote
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 small fingers help--it's fun, but a quick hit Quote
G-spotter Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 I think being a midget helps on Kanga Corner cause you pretty much have to layback your feet up next to your hands before you make that reach up. Quote
jordop Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Kangaroo Corner at Squamish. Maybe cuz its short (no offense RumR) but it sure doesn't feel like an 11a. one move unwonder. The only gear 11 I've led Quote
archenemy Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Well hey, keep working on it and maybe you'll get the chance to lead some other 11s. Hang in there boy. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 BS (5.6) in Leaveworth, the bulgy move past the spinner bolt felt like 5.8 or harder to me. IMo the biggest sandbag I've been on. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Rainy Day Women. Good lord, how do you get past the upper crux? 12a? hah. Â Sagittarius is a bit of a bag at 10b I think. Â How about Numbah Ten at Index, and whatever the route at the Country right of Cunning Stunt at 12b. Quote
jordop Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 The red route on the features wall has been puttin some serious smack down. No way it's 11 Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 I recently climbed "First Blood" at Tieton which felt like 9+ to me though it is rated 5.8. I'm not very good at off-widths though. Carnival crack feels like 5.13. Â Â BTW: HERE is an older thread about sandbags. Quote
MCash Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 BS (5.6) in Leaveworth, the bulgy move past the spinner bolt felt like 5.8 or harder to me. IMo the biggest sandbag I've been on. Â Agreed. Also Snag Crack above it is definately harder than 5.7. Â How about Libra Crack if you got big hands. The starting moves are much harder (for me) than Even Steven (which is rated 11b). Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 I recently climbed "First Blood" at Tieton which felt like 9+ to me though it is rated 5.8. I'm not very good at off-widths though. I am glad that I am not the only person who felt that route is hard for a 5.8. Quote
Off_White Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Or perhaps a little wider than "hand" as it's described in the guide. Slothrop seemed to have led it handily a month ago or so, maybe he'll chime in. Â I thought Almo Massacre at City of Rocks was a bit sandbagged, but maybe it was just the combination of overhanging, crimps, and fat&weak that made is seem tough for 10c. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Sagittarius is a bit of a bag at 10b I think. Â ??? Â It's 9 to the lower anchors, 10a to just below the roof, 11b for pulling the roof. Quote
sobo Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Back in my first days on the rock... Alcoa Presents at Seneca Rocks, WV. They say it's a 5.7... I learned rather quickly what all the snickering about a "Seneca Seven" was... Â Fuggin' thing felt like an old skewl 5.9, and scary, too. Quote
gavastik Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 BTW: HERE is an older thread about sandbags. Â Wow, 9+ pages of sandbags. <shudder> Â Okay, how about easy routes for the grade, hm? Obvious climbing, good protection, clean falls, nice solid rock... They must exist, no? Quote
northwest_dad Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Didn't check the origional thread but 'Classic Crack' @ Broughton's Bluff 5.9+ (+++++++)is a suprise if you actually climb 5.9. I've seen people flash 10.b's right next to it and then get spanked on it. Chalk one up for the traddies. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Sagittarius is a bit of a bag at 10b I think. Â ??? Â It's 9 to the lower anchors, 10a to just below the roof, 11b for pulling the roof. Â 10a? i guess it just turned into a bigger bag of sand. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.