[TR] Prusik- South Face 5/21/2006

[jrb]

Climb: Prusik-South Face

 

Date of Climb: 5/21/2006

 

Trip Report:

Climbed South Face of Prusik on Sunday, via the Stanley route (the one in the Nelson/Potterfield book), and I figured I do a little TR. We hiked in on Saturday, leaving the SC trailhead around 11:00. We came across several down trees on our way up to the creek crossing. Shortly after crossing the creek, we started hitting large sections of snow. Snow died down at the lake, but still had to walk on several sections of snow (more then I cared for). Getting up to Snow Lakes was pretty chill, but once we hit Snow Lake we were on snow for the rest of the approach. Took a long, around about way up to Nada lake, but it was pretty painless. We got to camp a few hours before sunset. We felt we made good time, but in general the going is still pretty slow.

 

Got up around 6:15 on Sunday, and had a slow morning, finally getting on route a little after 8:00. We linked pitches 1&2 and 3 with most of 4 (belayed 20 ft. under the chockstone). Then climbed through the chockstone and chimney in one more pitch, and then climbed the sweet corner pitch. My partner started the last pitch as it started to drizzle, which then turned to rain, and finally snow. One of the more impressive leads I have seen. It rained/snowed for the entire descent and walk back to camp. Good fun for sure. It took us about 8 hours, camp to camp. We both felt that the weather really slowed us down towards the end of the climb. Having the follower climb with a huge pack (we both had boots in it) didn’t help our cause either.

 

So we did it in four pitches, which was really easy. We had a 70m cord, but I’m pretty sure you could do the same with a 60m. For a rack we took single set of TCU (0-3), double BDs (0.75-2), plus a BD 3 and 3.5 and a set of HB offsets and a few BD stoppers, which worked just fine. Rappel anchors seemed to be in good shape, as we didn’t feel the need to beef anything up. It took us about five hours from camp to the car. Still a lot of snow up there, so the going is slow but the route is more then doable. Just don’t expect to run in there with sneakers on, at least if you are a mortal like us.

 

FWIW,

jrb

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice sounding trip. I have always wanted to get up there and do some stuff on that side of Prussik.

 

Just to note: Nada Lake is before Snow Lakes.

[underworld]

sweeeet!! i looked DOWN that route once, looks awesome.

 

btw - i thought there was offwidth on that route? 3.5 is all you needed?? just curious.

[olyclimber]

[Gary_Yngve]

There are definitely places to put a #5 Friend on that route. Whether it's necessary is your call. Personally, I lug the boat anchor along because I'm a wimp.

[MountaingirlBC]

wow... good job. we were on Colchuck when the crappy weather rolled in. I was recommending Prusik to some friends and told them I'd rather go in Aasgard. Do you think the Snow approach is better? I still wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole but if the general perception is that it's better perhaps I'll quit telling people how much I hate it.

[ClimbingPanther]

Personally, I've never been up and over Aasgard.

Regardless of that fact, I can say with absolute certainty that Aasgard is better than Snow Creek for the approach.

[Gary_Yngve]

In summertime, I like approaching via Snow Lake. It's mindless trail the most of the way, whereas Colchuck->Asgard is more rugged.

[jrb]

I’ve done the approach from both trailheads, and I feel that they are about the same. Right now, I’d vote for Snow Creek because of snow.

 

Yes, there is an OW/chimney on the route but it’s more of a flare so you don’t need anything big to protect it. I believe the largest piece I placed on this pitch was a BD #2. There are a couple of fixed pieces on this pitch too. Having a bigger piece on the last pitch would have been nice. When it’s dry, it’s pretty cruiser, but it is the mountains so you can’t always count on that. A BD #5 would work nicely, but that’s a lot of weight for using it once. A red or blue Big Bro would be a wiser choice, at least in my book.

 

Picture is looking down the flare

Edited May 24, 2006 by olyclimber

[olyclimber]

did you take any other pics jrb? Would love to see them.

[DirtyHarry]

Such a good climb. Nice work on an ealry season ascent!

[jrb]

I can not figure out how to insert pictures so I'll have to attach them. Looking down pitch 2, just below the chockstone.

 

Edited May 24, 2006 by olyclimber

[olyclimber]

jrb, you can upload the pictures (upload multiple at once even) to the Gallery (see on the menu on the top) and then link to the images using the "Image" UBB code to show the picture in your post.

 

Those two are great. I edited your post so they show. Its a bit confusing, but if you just want to attach the picture to the post, you have to go back and edit after you attach it using the "Image" code in the "Instant UBB Code" box available when you're editing the post. Be sure to copy the URL by looking at the attached picture before editing your post, so you can just paste it in. It is easier to just post the pictures in the gallery though, as you can upload multiple at once.

[mattp]

I found a #4 or 4.5 camelot handy on both the first and last pitches.

 

How was the descent. The anchors are good, you report. Isn't there a bunch of snow on the north side? Rockshoes OK there?

[jrb]

The snow was really saturated/unconsolidated so we were sinking to mid thigh for the most part. We had boots, which I was glad to have. Approach shoes would work, but rock shoes would suck (right now). This is just my opinion, and I usually try to descend in Chaco which would be even worse.

 

The second rap took all of my 70m, so watch the end of the rope.

 

I’ll put a few more pictures up next week. I’m off to the City for some craggin.

[ivan]

da'couve in da'fawk'n house! i'm not alone in my hardcore-ness!

[olyclimber]

cool jrb, have fun.....just let me know if you need any help figuring out how to load pics to the gallery or linking them in your posts when you get back.

[tzboyan]

We are heading up to snow lake this weekend, just for some camping with the wife. I think I heard you say the snow was unconsolidated and you were sinking in, is that right? Then snowshoes would be a plus.

 

Thanks

t

[Chad_A]

Good job, Jaime. Looks like you had a great time!

 

-Chad