Psychological Cascade Routes

[EWolfe]

The Backside of Route!

 

[ivan]

the standard dumbass 5 hr drive from the 'couve to the goddamn trailhead?

[curtveld]

How bout the big flake undercling on the NW face of N Early Winter Spire? Nothing for the feet but vertical smears as you hang your butt out over the abyss! Then once you're up that, you get the long fist crack corner. Mmmm, what a great route.

[layton]

i don't remember that pitch?

[skykilo]

Mike,

 

I think he's talking about this one.

 

 

It definitely messed with my head for a minute. Then the offwidth. YEAH!

[Gary_Yngve]

The Zig-Zag Flakes pitch on NW Corner from a different view:

 

 

I think once you do enough of those (top of Aries, to 1st bolts of Sagg, the two Dreamer traversy parts, Zig-Zag flake, the 10b exit of Ultimate Everything), you just get used to it.

 

The runout knobby 5.8 pitches on the top of Dreamer were pretty thought-inspiring.

 

For a while, I've been intimidated by EF Lexington and Rebel Yell. Hopefully this summer I'll finally get around to doing them.

[curtveld]

That's the one. Gary's middle shot is the butt-hanging move in all it's glory!

[chelle]

The last pitch of Aries at Index has a pretty intimidating 5.8 chimney move out around a roof. Some lower portions of the route are just plain hard for the grade more than they are intimidating per se.

 

The last time I did that climb the most psychologically intimidating part of that pitch for me was the bat nesting under the roof.

[DirtyHarry]

Mike,

 

I think he's talking about this one.

 

 

It definitely messed with my head for a minute. Then the offwidth. YEAH!

 

Not to chestbeat, but I soloed that once. Maybe that belongs in the stupidest thing you ever did thread, though

[telemarker]

How 'bout this little psych job on Colchuck Balanced Rock?

 

[DirtyHarry]

No shit. The "5.8" chimney. Hardest pitch on the climb.

[John Frieh]

Thielsen

 

[layton]

Agreed, thinking about the 5.8 chimney on CBR should bring a groan to anyone who's ever climbed it. hardest pitch on the climb fo sho.

 

Funny, I've done the NW face of N early twice and still, even with visual, have no recollection of that pitch. I remember tweaky 5.8 start, the nice steppy cracks past the trees, the o.w., the slab to the fun overhang, the summit scramble. oh well.

 

every climb scares me and I want my mom. I want your mom too though

[scott_johnston]

I don't know about many of these other routes that folks are talking about but I'd give Tooth and Claw on Lexington Tower the psycho crown in the WA PASS area. Forty foot runnouts on 5.11 slabs on old 5/16th bolts to some spooky anchors. Put in back when men were men and God hadn't invented portable roto-hammers. It is a super quality route but sees little traffic.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

Scott

[ivan]

every climb scares me and I want my mom. I want your mom too though

 

MILF!

[Stefan]

here is a route that has probably not been climbed since 1974:

 

South Hozomeen, North Ridge

 

"It's only 5.4"

 

I agree. Becuase the rock I hear is so bad in quality.

[minx]

The last pitch of Aries at Index has a pretty intimidating 5.8 chimney move out around a roof. Some lower portions of the route are just plain hard for the grade more than they are intimidating per se.

 

The last time I did that climb the most psychologically intimidating part of that pitch for me was the bat nesting under the roof.

 

 

no kidding!! i couldn't figure out what you were doing up there. i moved pretty damn fast when i got there! thanks for not warning me