Summer Suggestions for snow/rock climbs

[MountainAsylum]

Hi,

My brother and I (both in our mid 20's) will be heading out that way this summer for a couple weeks, most likely to the southern portion of the Park to hit a few peaks, possibly Forbidden or Logan. I'm looking for a few suggestions for fun climbs, e.g. mostly snow climbs with a bit of rock/exposure towards the top, but i'm okay with a few pitches of rock up to 5.7 or so. I traveled across a good bit of this area two summers ago over the span of a month (June) to get some fundamentals down, (glacier travel/rescue, routefinding, etc.) We started at Holden, checked out Lyman Lake/Glacier, approached Chiwawa Mtn, came back to pass over Cloudy Pass and then Suiattle Pass, back down to Miner's Cr. Then made our way to Downey Cr where the bridge was out. Got re-supplied, headed up to Itswoot ridge via Bachelor Cr. Hit Dome Peak, then came down Dana Glacier and passed by Spire pt, White Rock lakes and then across the S. Cascade Glacier, to make our way out by some nasty bushwhacking along the S. Fork to Mineral Park. Then we spent the rest of the time in the actual Park traversing the varied territory, crossing Inspiration and Eldorado Glaciers, and dropping down to Mt Torment and Boston Basins. During this, I summitted Eldorado Peak, which was a fun classic ridge at the top, and Sahale Mtn, which was a fun glacier/snow climb, w/ an interesting bergschrund crossing, and I'd say minimal 5th class at the top (at least for a short guy). Finally we exited via Boston Basin to the Cascade River Rd and returned to civilization. So, with that description of my experience, if I'm looking to boost my climbing experience/repertoire, what would be some ideal places to go, or suitable peaks to hit during our time there. (we've got roughly 10 days) My brother is quite experienced in rock, and also a bit of ice (Ben Nevis, Scotland--winter) So i feel with our combined skills, we should be able to tackle some more demanding peaks than the ones I mentioned above. We're from NC, and rarely get the chance to hit the 'Big Stuff,' so we'd like to get the most out of this trip. I'd greatly appreciate any help or recommendations from this board's collective experience.

Thanks alot,

dan

Edited April 19, 2006 by MountainAsylum

[Weekend_Climberz]

Think 'Pickets'. Pick up Beckey's "Challenge of the North Cascades". If I remember right, one of the chapters is "10 days in the Pickets" or something like that. Rock maybe a little harder than 5.6, but I'm sure there's plent to do at your level worth getting on. Cheers

[ivan]

you saw johannesburg on your last trip - time to do the ne buttress! the rock is all very easy, but there's a bunch of vertical bushwacking to be done before you get to it and the final snowfield - a wierd climb but a fantastic setting - you'll be able to look back at everything you've done already, which heightens the enjoyment

[chucK]

What about Redboubt/Spickard area?

 

What time of the summer are you talking?

 

Your past trip sounds amazing!

[still_climbin]

You might want to retrace some of your past travels, only this time summiting mountains you passed like Forbidden, Torment, Jo'berg. Another suggestion is the Ptarmigan Traverse collecting Formidable, Spire and others. Some of these peaks have a variety of routes where you can choose the level of difficulty and snow/rock mix to your liking (eg. Forbidded Standard vs. W. Ridge vs. N. Ridge).

[MountainAsylum]

The trip will most likely take place some time in mid July...although I wish we could do it earlier. I liked the conditions and enjoyed the amount of snow still around. Believe it or not, we never had to use crampons during this trip. I heard you guys have gotten more than average snowfall this year, is that true? So perhaps the same sort of conditions that I saw will exist into July. Thanks for the suggestions so far, I'm checking out Redoubt and Spickard, and definitely like the idea of retracing some familiar territory, only to actually gain the summits of the mountains that tempted me with all their might that summer...especially Forbidden, That mountain is just sick looking, and I want its summit. I have a gorgeous picture of Forbidden backed by a blood-red sky I'll see if I can post once I figure out how. Thanks for the suggestions so far guys, keep em' coming!

dan

[DirtyHarry]

Beckey route on Nooksack Tower.

[mattp]

Nooksak Tower is one of the coolest things around. Some people fear/complain about the rock, and it is definitely rotten, but it is sick for sure - a real spire that is surrounded by tumbling ice, and there is no easy descent. It is one of the harder to attain summits in the range yet not so far into the wilderness as some of the others mentioned here.

 

It is, however, a lot more serious than you suggested when you wrote "mostly snow climbs with a bit of rock/exposure towards the top, but i'm okay with a few pitches of rock up to 5.7 or so."

[goatboy]

(eg. Forbidded Standard vs. W. Ridge vs. N. Ridge).

 

Still Climbin, are you referring to the East Ridge Direct, or the NE Face when you refer to the "standard?"

 

I echo the idea of the Boston Basin summits which you missed last time, or the Ptarmigan Traverse.

[ivan]

Nooksak Tower is one of the coolest things around. Some people fear/complain about the rock, and it is definitely rotten, but it is sick for sure - a real spire that is surrounded by tumbling ice, and there is no easy descent. It is one of the harder to attain summits in the range yet not so far into the wilderness as some of the others mentioned here.

 

It is, however, a lot more serious than you suggested when you wrote "mostly snow climbs with a bit of rock/exposure towards the top, but i'm okay with a few pitches of rock up to 5.7 or so."

i agree w/ matt here - this is mostly a rock climb - plus the standard route would be tedious and annoying for the way up - work on your skills and then go and do the north face route and descend the standard - much cooler.

 

if you have the time, definitly get in a climb of mt shuksan (nooksack is a smaller satellite peak on the massif) - the fisher chimeny route and sounds like a perfect match for your wishes (mostly snow, but a bit of easy rock thrown in, including a beautiful summit pyramid to scramble up)

[DirtyHarry]

Mt. Goode is also a suggestion, though more of a rock route.

 

I'd also reccomend looking in Kevin McClane's Alpine Select Instruction Manual for SW BC and north Washington.

[genepires]

fischer chimneys on mt shuksan has lots of variety. lots of 3rd and 4th class to snow to rock to good glacier to summit pryamid. Just when you've had enough of what you are on, it changes to another climbing medium. Getting through hells highway is very thought provoking too. Can do a bivy sack bivi below winny's slide for classic mountain experience.

Not many crowds due it's exclusion from nelson guides. But a good description in found in Kearney and Beckey guides.

[Skeezix]

Based on the terrain you've already covered and your description of ability and desire... I'd rule out Logan. It's a worthy climb but not a highlight. I'd recommend the following choices ("Mostly snow with a bit of rock/exposure towards the top"):

1. Forbidden Peak - climb the N Ridge or NW Face and descend the West Ridge (Or just go ahead and do the damn West Ridge - you'll love it).

2. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys and the Southeast Corner of the Summit Pyramid (avoid the S Face of the Summit Pyramid...)

3. North Ridge of Baker ...or an easier route on Baker. Get the volcano experience under your belt without the relatively committing extra 4000' of Rainier.

You're gonna have a great trip.

[MountainAsylum]

Cool, I'll definitely be looking into Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. From what i've heard and looked at so far, it sounds exhilirating. Also, Forbidden seems to be a must-do as well. Just curious, how hard is it to get permits for these spots??

Thanks so much for the help so far. If I were looking for a definitive guide to Mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Rt, where would you suggest I look. I've heard different opinions about which guidebooks to get. I know Beckey's book is a staple in the area, and someone else mentioned Jim Nelson's book. Should I just go ahead and get both, or would one suffice?

 

If you care to see some pics from my trip that I mentioned above, please check them out here! http://www.putfile.com/ddgerman

[ivan]

nelson's gudes are easier/friendler to work w/ but much more limited than beckey (also cheaper) - a serious man starts w/ beckey and a tourist w/ nelson - half the fun is the mystery of the unknown so having some grey areas in the beta isn't all bad

 

no permits for shuskan - need permit to camp in boston basin and might be annoying to get if on a weekend but doing it car-car is very reasonalbe and bivying above the basin in practice generally puts you beyond the eyes of The Man

Edited April 20, 2006 by ivan

[Skeezix]

Not sure what Ivan means by above the basin, but if you cross over Sharkfin Col and camp on the Boston Glacier you will be in a different xc zone for permitting. That would be feasible for you and your brother... but it makes for a very long first-day approach and means you have to carry over Forbidden or descend a north side route instead of the West Ridge. And Sharkfin Col is loose rock city. A non-permitted stealth camp in the Basin is a poor bet. Better to have a back-up plan to go climb elsewhere. If you arrive in Marblemount on a day other than Saturday, you greatly increase your odds of getting a permit for the basin. And Beckey for a guidebook...

[chelle]

Cool, I'll definitely be looking into Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. From what i've heard and looked at so far, it sounds exhilirating. Also, Forbidden seems to be a must-do as well. Just curious, how hard is it to get permits for these spots??

Thanks so much for the help so far. If I were looking for a definitive guide to Mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Rt, where would you suggest I look. I've heard different opinions about which guidebooks to get. I know Beckey's book is a staple in the area, and someone else mentioned Jim Nelson's book. Should I just go ahead and get both, or would one suffice?

 

If you care to see some pics from my trip that I mentioned above, please check them out here! http://www.putfile.com/ddgerman

 

There is a drawing in the Becky guide for the fisher chimney route that is a really good guide to finding the entrance to the chimneys. Way better than just looking for the obvious gully.

 

A few years ago when I was there once we found the entrance to the chimneys we relied on info from someone who'd done the route years before. "If the climbing feels harder than 5.5 you are off route." When the climbing got a little harder looking for the exit to the area below Whinney's slide, we backtracked and tried another way and found the exit about 50 feet up the rock along with a bright orange arrow painted on the rock to help people find the entrance from above on the descent

 

Have fun.

[DirtyHarry]

You guys should consider doing the Torment Forbidden Traverse. Definitly more bang for your buck if you're going up to the area anyway.