[TR] Hyalite, Pine Creek, Cooke City- 3/26/2006

[DanielHarro]

Climb: Hyalite, Pine Creek, Cooke City

 

Date of Climb: 3/26/2006

 

Trip Report:

Went to Bozeman with my girl to climb ice, tele ski, and rock climb. My twin brother goes to school at MSU so we had the hookups and a good climbing partner. We climbed at Hyalite, Pine Creek (45 min away), and Cooke City (3hours away). All the ice was amazing, it was hard to get back to Hyalite canyon, but once we did we had all the ice to ourselves!!! The weather was great, freezing at night and 40-45 in the afternoon.

Pine Creek was some amazing climbs, good mixed section and some great 40-60 meter WI3-4 climbs. We got to the base of a climb called green gully the fist day and thanks to my brother who heard a “load roaring sound” yelled at our climbing party (6 of us) to get out of the way as a very large avalanche flew past us 10 feet in font of us to the base of the climb. We all would have been buried if we were actually climbing, but since we just got to the climb all of us were just to the left of the climb and out of harms way. One guy did get all of his gear buried and it took some time to find it all again. After the avalanche stopped we wend down and climbed at the falls where there is some ice climbing and some good mixed routes. We did go back a few days later when avalanche danger was lower and climbed both green gully and blue gully.

Cooke City was cold at night 8-10 degrees and 40ish in the afternoon, all good climbs and 30-35 min approach. We spent two days their and climbed as much as we could. Snow shoes were nice for the approach there is still 10’ feet of snow on the ground. Soaking in the hot springs on the way back was key!! It’s called the boiling river just inside the west entrance of Yellowstone Park.

Hyalite canyon what can I say epic ice all to ourselves!!! Lots of climbs and every climb is huge right now!!! It is hard to get back their if you don’t have a snow machine or some crazy off road rigg!! It was worth all of the winching we had to do!!

Tele skiing we went to Bridger Bowel and we tele skied in knee deep powder all day long!! First tracks on every run!! Nice and dry!! We also climbed some rock, I don’t recommend leading any crack climb in the “pass” right outside of Bozeman, and the rock is super crumbly. The sport routes are fun though!! That’s all for now, great ice in the Bozeman area!!!!

 

Yellowstone Park one the way to Cook City

 

Second climb at Cooke City WI5 40-45 meters.

Lead at Cooke WI4

Cooke City Are Ice

Pine Creek M7 climb at pine creek falls (thanks to John aka (noles) and the DT sessions I could actually climb this!!

Cooke City Ice WI5+

SketchFest on a lead in Bozeman (loose sand stone = ripped out cams!!)

Toyota LandCruiser (with off road upgrades = getting into places were most cars cant)

Hyalite top roping at Genesis 1 WI4-5

Hyalite top roping at Genesis 1 WI4-5

 

Gear Notes:

Snow shoes for Cooke City approches, avalanche gear, long ropes for Cooke (long leads) 60-70 meters are nice, lots of screws, and sunglasses.

 

Approach Notes:

all our approches were 20-45 min, nothing too crazy. Avalanche gear is nice to have in the spring time!!

Edited April 3, 2006 by DanielHarro

[DanielHarro]

Here is a link to some more photos.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7751

[DirtyHarry]

Look like more fun than a quarrel of wands!

[cicleclimb]

Looks awesome, dood. That stuck Landcruiser brings back some fun memories from last December. I'll have to call you to get the full details on the near-epic avalanche. Glad to see you all got after it.

[olyclimber]

sweet looking ice

[archenemy]

Right on! Genesis 1 & 2 were my first ice climbs when I live in Bozo. Don't you just want to stay there forever?

And great pics!

[John Frieh]

Did you girl accidentally mistake your twin brother for you at any point during the trip? Just kidding!

 

Way to get it done Dan! Sweet ice pics for sure! Did you tackle the M7 leashed or leashless?

 

[Weekend_Climberz]

That looks like nice ice!! Pretty sweet area, too.

[John Frieh]

Hey I heard on Montanaice that the road might be gated soon... http://www.montanaice.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=456

 

 

conrad

 

Posts: 19

 

 

Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:07 pm Post subject:

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Aaron - Sorry about the bad Cody beta. We ran into some climbers who had just driven up and were lamenting the lack of ice. Guess they didn't know where to go.

The Hyalite road is scheduled to be gated to vehicles, but still open to snomachines. (Need a confirmation on this.)

We cilmbed Cleo's on Sat (Apr 1) - excellent condition - and nice weather. It recieves sun untill about noon (w/ DST). A few trucks ventured up but were sinking in once the snow softened up.

 

Any know about this?

[JoshK]

" We got to the base of a climb called green gully the fist day and thanks to my brother who heard a “load roaring sound” yelled at our climbing party (6 of us) to get out of the way as a very large avalanche flew past us 10 feet in font of us to the base of the climb. "

 

Brilliant... Might want to evaluate the snow pack a little better next time - those climbs are definitely pretty exposed to danger.

[archenemy]

Hey I heard on Montanaice that the road might be gated soon... http://www.montanaice.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=456

 

 

conrad

 

Posts: 19

 

 

Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:07 pm Post subject:

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Aaron - Sorry about the bad Cody beta. We ran into some climbers who had just driven up and were lamenting the lack of ice. Guess they didn't know where to go.

The Hyalite road is scheduled to be gated to vehicles, but still open to snomachines. (Need a confirmation on this.)

We cilmbed Cleo's on Sat (Apr 1) - excellent condition - and nice weather. It recieves sun untill about noon (w/ DST). A few trucks ventured up but were sinking in once the snow softened up.

 

Any know about this?

I don't know if things have changed much in the last two years, but when I was there, the gate is far enough up that you can get to where you are going w/o a snowmobile.

The side road to Palisades is usually gated down pretty low though, so be ready for a hike to that collection of climbs.

[ryland_moore]

Soaking in the hot springs on the way back was key!! It’s called the boiling river just inside the west entrance of Yellowstone Park.

 

I think you have your coordinates mixed up. Cooke City is the NE entrance to Yellowstone, which in my opinion, is the best route in Yellowstone as it goes over Beartooth Pass and is the highest maintained road in the US at over 11,000'. It is also your best opportunity to see wolves and bears.

 

The Boiling River is a subset of Mammoth Hotsprings and can be reached either through the NE entrance or the N entrance. Not from the West which is in a town called West Yellowstone and is really far south. It is also a good fall or early spring fishing spot as the "boiling River" flows into the Gardner River and there are huge cutts waiting for your fly....

 

Nice TR!

[DanielHarro]

Soaking in the hot springs on the way back was key!! It’s called the boiling river just inside the west entrance of Yellowstone Park.

 

"Quote"

I think you have your coordinates mixed up. Cooke City is the NE entrance to Yellowstone, which in my opinion, is the best route in Yellowstone as it goes over Beartooth Pass and is the highest maintained road in the US at over 11,000'. It is also your best opportunity to see wolves and bears.

 

The Boiling River is a subset of Mammoth Hotsprings and can be reached either through the NE entrance or the N entrance. Not from the West which is in a town called West Yellowstone and is really far south. It is also a good fall or early spring fishing spot as the "boiling River" flows into the Gardner River and there are huge cutts waiting for your fly....

 

Ryland_Moore-

We entered the park at the NW entrance and then drove to Cooke City which is just outside of the NE entrance of the park. That is the only way to get to Cooke City in the winter time since the other road is closed...

 

John Frieh-

I called Barrel mountain shop in Bozeman and they said the road closes in the fist week of April and opens in the Last week of May/Fist week in June. I am going to call my bro and have him check it out... I dont know why it closes...

 

Daniel

Edited April 4, 2006 by DanielHarro

[archenemy]

It is also a good fall or early spring fishing spot as the "boiling River" flows into the Gardner River and there are huge cutts waiting for your fly....

True, and visitors can get a day pass for ten bucks and not have to pay outta state.

[JoshK]

I think you have your coordinates mixed up. Cooke City is the NE entrance to Yellowstone, which in my opinion, is the best route in Yellowstone as it goes over Beartooth Pass and is the highest maintained road in the US at over 11,000'. It is also your best opportunity to see wolves and bears.

 

Ummm...do you mean mainted all year, including being opened in winter, or something? Cause if you are referring simply to paved and maintained roads then there are plenty in CO higher than that. Independence Pass crosses the divide at over 12k. Even I-70 crosses several 11k+ passes. The Eisenhower Tunnel which crosses the divide *through* the mountain is way up there too.

[Bronco]

Soaking in the hot springs on the way back was key!! It’s called the boiling river just inside the west entrance of Yellowstone Park.

 

"Quote"

I think you have your coordinates mixed up. Cooke City is the NE entrance to Yellowstone, which in my opinion, is the best route in Yellowstone as it goes over Beartooth Pass and is the highest maintained road in the US at over 11,000'. It is also your best opportunity to see wolves and bears.

 

The Boiling River is a subset of Mammoth Hotsprings and can be reached either through the NE entrance or the N entrance. Not from the West which is in a town called West Yellowstone and is really far south. It is also a good fall or early spring fishing spot as the "boiling River" flows into the Gardner River and there are huge cutts waiting for your fly....

 

Ryland_Moore-

We entered the park at the NW entrance and then drove to Cooke City which is just outside of the NE entrance of the park. That is the only way to get to Cooke City in the winter time since the other road is closed...

 

John Frieh-

I called Barrel mountain shop in Bozeman and they said the road closes in the fist week of April and opens in the Last week of May/Fist week in June. I am going to call my bro and have him check it out... I dont know why it closes...

 

Daniel

 

I think the reason they close popular FS roads this time of year is because the "thaw" is on and traps moisture in the top few inches of the road bed (below would be frozen until later in the spring). Any vehicle travel (or ORV) has the potential for causing relatively extreme damage.