August ice route suggestions....

[Chad_A]

Well, the recent threads on Andromeda/Athabasca, and the incidents that have occured, have stymied me once again. I thought that I was aiming for the right time to head to the Rockies, so I put in my vacation for that time; now, it looks like (just like here) it'll be melted out, too. Disappointing for sure. I'd hoped to give Humble Horse on Diadem a shot.

 

I suppose that I could head for the Mooses Tooth, but I don't think it'll be cold there yet (probably way too early for freeze-thaw). Any suggestions? I'd taken 10 days off for it.

 

Sad days, but I can't say that I'm surprised

[G-spotter]

wadd

[G-spotter]

oh yeah, you do know that in august you could actually be climbing alpine rock right?

[jmace]

haha, dude I woulnt get too worried about forecasting ice conditions in August its only March, just see what happens..I think last year melting out was everyones least concerns..didnt it snow most of August all over the high hills last summer, avi concerns and such ?...see what happens and I bet august will be fine if not go somewhere where it is, BC has tons of shit to do in August on ice

[wfinley]

August is a good month for routes on the N side of the Alaska Range. However it's also the time when the bear are actively foraging for lost climbers to fatten up for winter.

[goatboy]

I agree with Jmace. Too early to worry! Be happy that you have time off and just go where conditions dictate.

 

I climbed N Face of Fury and N Face Bucker, both in September, over the last 3-4 years, so I trust that there will be something to do in August if one looks in the right places.

 

Good luck!

[Chad_A]

Oh, sure, I understand that I could do August rock routes, and that may be what I end up doing. The plan this year, however, is to get trad experience earlier, and couple it with the ice mileage I did this past winter, and culminate it in a mixed route of some sort.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, and for the encouragement. I'll keep an open mind, for now...though I don't think I'll be fat enough for any bear (unless I slow down on the beer.)

[DirtyHarry]

Take late September / October off instead and go then.

[Chad_A]

Wish I could...

[ivan]

ice cliff glacier on stuie - you can make dru happy by doing the girth pilla afterwards - be sure to leave a nuetrino!

[genepires]

there are still ice routes in canadian rockies. don't blow off there yet. N face of fay and athabasca should be good. If you want, I could email you some info for them.

 

I heard (rumor!) that humble horse wasn't in very well due to climatic conditions. If I was going in there, I would talk to a local (will gadd has been very generous with advice) about the condition of the route.

 

while up there you could do some alpine rock routes also for a grand 10 day adventure.

[John Frieh]

Good list Gene... Don't forget N face of Robson.

 

Then again Chad August is a fine time to get some shit done locally.

 

And if you are bent on swinging tools just pick something that has a really bushy approach and hack your way through.

[Chad_A]

Haha, okay, okay...

 

I emailed B. Blanchard, and he suggested the time to go is in June, now days, for Humble Horse. Might be tough to swing that one this year, but I may try.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, Gene; I spoke with a partner of yours through PMs regarding some Canadian climbs, and it's encouraging. He had some good suggestions; if you have any specifics, feel free to suggest, as well. I still have those xeroxed beta sheets, as well, that you sent.

 

John- That may very well be the result...heheh.

 

Eric- Well, I was up in that area a couple years ago, but I forgot to leave the Neutrino. Shit.

[fishstick]

Hi Chad,

 

August can be killer good for alpine ice in the Coast Range (especially late August). Recomended areas include (but certainly aren't limited to) the Tchaikazan Valley, area East of Taseko Lake and potentially the Niut range. None of the areas have guide books, but all offer bomber terrain with some ice faces that seem really big by rockies standards. In all honesty, the central Coast just seems littered with big ice routes in way that would be impossible in the dry rockies.

 

Alpine mixed might be more difficult, but the Wad (as suggested) is said to be world class.

 

PM me for more beta, or talk to Don Serl. He is THE MAN to talk to though about alpine ice in the coast range.

 

Cheers,

 

GB

[Chad_A]

Hey, Gordy,

 

Thanks much, you know I'll be in touch. What's the approach time for these areas, BTW?

 

Cheers,

Chad

[chris]

Last year the alpine ice routes in the Sierra's were incredible in August and September. You could always change plans and head south instead.

[Chad_A]

Really...feel free to suggest anything in particular. I'll keep it in mind when the time comes.

[RemoWilliams]

Last year the alpine ice routes in the Sierra's were incredible in August and September. You could always change plans and head south instead.

Besides Mendel, what other good ones are down there?

[chris]

Immediately to the east of Mendel is Thompson (in fact they share the same bivy), with four couloirs splitting its broad north face and go at AI3 and AI4. The North Couloir on North Peak up by Lee Vining is AI3/4. Then of course there is the U-Notch and V-Notch couloirs down in the Palisades, which were in decent shape last year - and as long as the snowpack is average or above average this winter they should be again this year.

And these are just the half-dozen that are do-able in a long day or a day-and-a-half that immediately come to mind. I'm sure if I sit down with Secor's book I can find another half-dozen that require a full day's approach.

There are also a couple more - Checkered Demon and Clyde Couloir come to mind - that come into condition and then melt out each summer.

For route conditions when you arrive, you can check in with three resources: Mammoth Mountaineering Supply on Main in Mammoth; Wilson's Eastside Sports on Main Bishop, and Sierra Mountain Center on West Line in Bishop (www.sierramountaincenter.com).

Have fun!

[Chad_A]

That sounds impressive! I've never been to the Sierras; simply put, I'm trying to get out of the Cascades this year to experience a different range. I have the Rockies on my list, because I can't afford to get to Alaska or Peru this year like I wanted to.

 

I'll see if I can find the book (Secor, you say?) and take a look at things. If I don't make down there this year, I certainly will sometime. Thanks for the information!

 

Cheers,

Chad

[chris]

Chad - Check out:

High Sierra, by RJ Secor

Climbing California's High Sierra, by John Moynier and Claude Fiddler

Secor's book is the equivalent to the Beckey guides, while Moynier & Fiddler is more like the Alpine Select.

Good luck!