michaeljosephnozel Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 Looking forward to a forthcoming ascent of Prusik South Face. For those of you who have done this route, as well as Epinephrine, how would you compare the chimneying in terms of difficulty/strenuousness, protectability, and the all-important "pucker index?" Also, I understand that no permit is necessary if one is doing the route in a day, car-to-car. Is this accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceScrewed Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 True, you don't need more than a self issued trail permit for a one day ascent...just lots of speed! I'd expect you're planning on going up Asgard as (1)the Stuart/Colchuck trail road will be closing shortly due to bridge nonsense and (2)I was up there a couple of weeks ago and the snow is getting thin on the Asgard approach which would cause me to favor the Snow Lake approach...in all a very long day. Sorry I can't help on the chimney question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceScrewed Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 Oops! I meant to say I'd expect you're NOT planning on going up Asgard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 If your going to do it in a day, you must be one fit muther. IT is just over 10 miles with something like 7,000 ft of elevation gain, then you have to hike out. Depending on which South Face route you do. You can start either one with the Becky Chimney start, no pro for like 30 ft but enjoyable 5.8. The next to last pitch on the Stanley/Burgner route is a real thrutch 5.9, but protects well. There is a fixed pin and a knotted sling. The top were it pinches off is difficult. Ratings feel right on. If you are a sound on 5.9 chimneys you won't have any problems. You will die in the chimneys! [ 07-08-2002, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: Highlander ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 i did the berger-stanley route (the one in the nelson guide). There is only one real chimney pitch and it protects very well. The other pitches are sort of 5.8 stemming between two walls-- no problem. The last pitch of this route is hard for 5.9 and takes small nuts and aliens or tcus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: If your going to do it in a day, you must be one fit muther. IT is just over 10 miles with something like 7,000 ft of elevation gain, then you have to hike out. Did it a day in '95 with my girlfriend, now wife. I figured if she could pull that off then she could put up with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 The chimney pitch on Prusik is harder, or at least more awkward, than chimney pitches on Epenephrine. It's also much, much shorter and, as previously pointed out, it protects very well. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Bring a large sack of gumption, that chimney is so slippery and you will fight for every inch you gain, it may kill you. Other than that its no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Went to try prussik last week car to car. Got wicked sandbagged on the beta, "5 hours from trailhead to base of route". So Necro and I left the car at 8:30. We figured we were screwed by snow lakes. Nice hike if your into that sorta crap. Go up snow lake TH. Asgard pass is for going down, not up. The area is totally disgusting! How long would it take to completely level that area into a giant parking lot if the entire human race were to focus all their energy on it, using rock to chop and dig while consuming their dead? 1 month? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: The area is totally disgusting! How long would it take to completely level that area into a giant parking lot if the entire human race were to focus all their energy on it, using rock to chop and dig while consuming their dead? 1 month? MIKE, are you huffing scotch guard again?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 5 hours from car to the base of the climb sounds reasonable with light packs. I hiked up there a couple years ago in the fall in 5 hours to shoot photography. I even had a bunch of camera crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 layton, I dont know how many times I sprayed about walking in the other way. My last trip had a lot of snow on the app a month or so ago from SCW area and we made it up there getting of trail in about 5.5. Shoulda went the other way maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Must be a lot qucker from snow lakes to the peak than I thougt. That pass looked like it would take some time. Should'a gone. Damnit. Camera equipment? What are you taking pictures of? That area is so visually offensive and awful, that if it was a person, Dr. Laura Scrotumdinger would tell me to leave it and press criminal charges!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 It's ten miles either way. However the trail is better on SCW start elevation gain is more but the less or no snow makes it better. Can do it in sneakers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 A month ago there was some blow-down between Snow Cr. Wall and the lower lk. Is this still the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 Not sure if it is still there but is certainly is passable. They had some crews in there but they needed horses and chainsaws instead of manual work. Ranger St would know or Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 Trail's fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljosephnozel Posted July 11, 2002 Author Share Posted July 11, 2002 Thanks everybody for the replies. I think a midnight start from Snow Creek TH will put us to the base in really good time, not only to do the climb, but also to hike out the same day. As for the slippery-ness of Prusik's chimney (in the post by wayne1112), I found the crux chimney pitch on Epinephrine to be smooth-sided, quite strenuous, and with precious little gear for the length of the pitch. If that doesn't kill me, why would a shorter--albeit, more awkward--better protected chimney kill me? (Or is this just another "you'll die in the chimneys" remark?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 It was just a remark, yes, but I found it exeptionally difficult and insecure.If you really want to go out with a bang , raft the Skykomish like we did yesterday and dont look at the book for beta! Lucky to be alive, Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr._jay Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 the trail across snow lakes is no problem. went up yesterday and did the hike and climb then bivvied at lake vivene. i'm in sorry shape from too much work and not enough play recently and the hike kicked my ass, but we still made it up. the lower pitches of the route go fast but i can't vouch for the upper ones since we managed to lose our way by not paying attention and ended up doing some sketchy route finding but somehow it worked. i can't recommend it but we left a sling for the pedulum move if anyone is interested. we only had a day pass and had no problems, but we did have a park pass for snow creek that came in handy. and believe it or not, there actually was a friendly ranger at the lot but he didn't hang around long and could have easily been avoided. and one more thing--the mosquitoes are so fucking bad right now so definitely plan accordingly. thumbs up to the lemon eucalyptus stuff from rei. [ 07-11-2002, 09:37 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 Like Dr. Jay said, the mosquitos are really bad right now in the Enchantments. When I say bad I mean a constant swarm of 30-40 mosquitos around my head starting at 5 am and there until the sun goes down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtngrrrl Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 There were mosquitos on the summit of Prussik Peak a few weeks ago. That SUCKED, but the West Ridge climb was dandy. There's some sticky granite up there. Yeahhhhhh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 mtngrrl, Prusik sux huh? That rock is the worst I have ever seen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 Cavey, Cavey...I think she said that the bugs sucked...which I completely agree with. Got eaten alive on Dragontail last weekend and am still scratching. Michael Layton is some kind of pyscho hoser though...ugly? Exactly what kind of crack have you been smoking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 Yeah the bugs and horror! They suck the life and motivation right out of you. Bring your machete for the trail I hear too No good rock back there either! Go to Da Toof I say. Beckey did it in his hobnails so it must be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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