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cman

Good patagonia pics

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It's a bummer the route they are on have bolts within inches of gear gobbling cracks!! Picture #22 and #23 are the ones I'm referring to. Picture #22 would take big green cams for that OW pitch. Pic #23 also has a fixed LA down to the lower right of the Pussy bolt he is clipped into, plus the gads of options for clean gear all around him. Bad style on who ever put up the route!! This shit shouldn't happen in arenas like this! Or anywhere for that matter. Don't bring the rock down to your level.....if you don't have the gear...leave it for someone who does, or comeback with the right gear and do it in style.

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the route was put up by a team with wolfgang gullich on it.

 

oli lived in my apartment in new york when he was homeless in america after running away from band camp.

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That place has been on my list of places to go for over 12 years. Still haven't got there yet. I'll bash bolts next to cracks till I'm dead! I was waiting for the Wolfgang comment...I don't give a f@%$#&* who you are! Bolts next to cracks = BAD STYLE....ALWAYS!! Just because he climbed hard and you have heard of him, makes it ok to bolt the rock where it could easily be protected with natural pro???? I would most likely do a FA when I finally get down there, but if I ever get on that route...You can guarantee I WONT BE CLIPPING THOSE BOLTS. If you think it's fine to bolt cracks, you unfortunately didn't have a crusty old school mentor over 18 years ago. If we aren't passing on history and the value of ethics, then we aren't doing the rock justice with our newer geration of climbers. This newer gerneration far out numbers the amount of people engaging in this activity even 10 years ago! There are a place for bolts, and that isn't right next to a crack!

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what's the deal with mentioning trout creek so much lately? it seems to be brought up constantly, even in a thread about an alpine route in patagonia!

 

bolts next to cracks=no good and bad style, regardless of who did the fa.

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It seems to come up in threads I make a comment on. Like it's some jab at me to let me know the "secret" is out. Well it's never been a secret! Don't worry Mark, I'm not mentioning the other areas around there. I have only made reference to TC in it's original thread. Hell I don't think I have ever mentioned the crags name.

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but even they don't know the super-duper-top-secret central oregon cracks.

 

they haven't been found yet!

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Is it OK to bolt an Alien sized crack though(in supersecret darkest Oregon, or Pataguccia), given the dangerous manufacturing defects in Aliens?

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yeah, some nice pics. Does pic 16 look like he has a single rope clipped as a trail line and no other?

 

Anyhow, it's hard enough to climb something like that, kudos for finding some 5 star pics.

 

Also, a5, the one bolt you mention looks like it comes right before a flake wedged into the rock which could be loose. Hard to armchair quarterback something 4000 miles away.

 

MO anyway.

 

take care all:

 

B

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That place has been on my list of places to go for over 12 years. Still haven't got there yet. I'll bash bolts next to cracks till I'm dead! I was waiting for the Wolfgang comment...I don't give a f@%$#&* who you are! Bolts next to cracks = BAD STYLE....ALWAYS!! Just because he climbed hard and you have heard of him, makes it ok to bolt the rock where it could easily be protected with natural pro???? I would most likely do a FA when I finally get down there, but if I ever get on that route...You can guarantee I WONT BE CLIPPING THOSE BOLTS. If you think it's fine to bolt cracks, you unfortunately didn't have a crusty old school mentor over 18 years ago. If we aren't passing on history and the value of ethics, then we aren't doing the rock justice with our newer geration of climbers. This newer gerneration far out numbers the amount of people engaging in this activity even 10 years ago! There are a place for bolts, and that isn't right next to a crack!

 

:yyyaaaaawwwwwnnnnnnnn: yellowsleep.gif

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I would most likely do a FA when I finally get down there, but if I ever get on that route...You can guarantee I WONT BE CLIPPING THOSE BOLTS.

 

Whooaaaa. Step back!!! Hardman is the hizzousse.

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markd, the only reason I mentioned TC is becasue A5 is there every weekend, both climbing and cleaning est. routes. No jab, just heard you climb at TC from Chad W all the time and I simply said, check out Patagucci. It is an awesome place when the weather cooperates!

 

Yeah, tough to armchair it from a picture when you can't see what the route looks like above. If it is dangerous and loose, then by all means bolt the crack for protection. I doubt anyone would take the time to place a bolt in an environ like that unless absolutely neccessary, although that does not stand true for the Compressor Route, now does it...

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Then why did you mention it in a Patagonia thread? I know some folks are to lazy to drag large gear into remote areas do to it's weight. I'm not implying that the FA's of this route were lazy, but that is often why you see bolts on wide cracks. The grade is usually lower by one grade on cracks if you aren't poking gear in on lead. Obvioulsly none of us know wheather things are loose up there or not, but my comment was more to do with the way people learn to climb these days. In gyms, at sport crags.....I think it is important to pass on the history of the sport and attempt to save the rock for future generations who can send in better style. By all means if you can't get gear in...put in a bolt. The looks of those pictures I mentioned sure look like there could have been gear placed.

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I mentioned TC becasue that is about the only place you climb consistently. If the comment was made by DFA, I would have said, "why don't you leave Smiff and head down and check 'er out then?" Or if it were Dru, I would have said, "Why don't you leave your computer and check 'er out then" or if Mikey Layton, I would have said," Why don't you leave Da Toof and head down and check 'er out then".......... cantfocus.gif So uptight about a place that isn't all that good in a worldly sense.....

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Then why did you mention it in a Patagonia thread? I know some folks are to lazy to drag large gear into remote areas do to it's weight.

Torres del Paine is remote? Fitzroy is remote? confused.gif

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