pope Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 ...is like deflowering a girl to protect her virginity. Quote
sk Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005  This girl seems to like it  seriously that looks prtoectable. Quote
Dru Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Maybe it is! But I don't see any pitons so it must work Quote
sk Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Maybe it is! But I don't see any pitons so it must work smart ass Quote
sk Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 What do you think of Dana's Arch> Â i don't know i haven't climbed it Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 What do you think of Dana's Arch> Â Pope thinks it's a wonderful sport-climb that some day he might have a shot at leading, once the Via Ferrata is in place. Quote
chirp Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Bolting, chipping, and glueing are ALL appropriate depending on circumstances IMHO. I wouldnt bolt a crack if it was protectable, but I would glue/chip creatively and discreetly in an area where the ethics deemed it permissable with respect to the ambiance and views of the developers as well as environmental/nature based considerations.. A sport route is a creation, a journey, and an expression of the creator. Quote
Crackbolter Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 What is wrong with bolts? Do you have something against safe climbing? Quote
crazyjizzy Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Bolting, chipping, and glueing are ALL appropriate depending on circumstances IMHO. I wouldnt bolt a crack if it was protectable, but I would glue/chip creatively and discreetly in an area where the ethics deemed it permissable with respect to the ambiance and views of the developers as well as environmental/nature based considerations..  Bullshit, the developers don't own the rock. You have the same mentality as Bush Co. The US does not own the atmosphere  A sport route is a creation, a journey, and an expression of the creator. You really aren't that full of yourself are you? In a nation of sheep, one brave man is a majority. Props to Ed Abbey (The fools progress)  How do you think Ed would feel about chipping and glueing? Quote
crazyjizzy Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 ...is like deflowering a girl to protect her virginity. Â When Dana's Arch was originally bolted, I did agree with the premise. The pitch was free climbable, and was getting beat to shit. Quote
ScottP Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Â When Dana's Arch was originally bolted, I did agree with the premise. The pitch was free climbable, and was getting beat to shit. Â How, in your mind, does the bolting of Dana's Arch compare with the bolting of the Zipper Roof? Quote
tomtom Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 I agree with Pope. We should go back to nailing climbing routes. Â Pitons are FUN! Quote
AlpineK Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 (edited) I have nothing to add, but I would like to post this picture.   and this one  Edited December 9, 2005 by AlpineK Quote
dalius Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Dude, that pic of Richie Simmons this early in the morning was just a little too much. That is one increadibly creepy individual. Quote
chirp Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Bolting, chipping, and glueing are ALL appropriate depending on circumstances IMHO. I wouldnt bolt a crack if it was protectable, but I would glue/chip creatively and discreetly in an area where the ethics deemed it permissable with respect to the ambiance and views of the developers as well as environmental/nature based considerations..  Bullshit, the developers don't own the rock. You have the same mentality as Bush Co. The US does not own the atmosphere  A sport route is a creation, a journey, and an expression of the creator. You really aren't that full of yourself are you? In a nation of sheep, one brave man is a majority. Props to Ed Abbey (The fools progress)  How do you think Ed would feel about chipping and glueing?  Someone has to support the dark side. In my post I made it vaguely specific that it depends on the area. My personal preference is one that Ed would heartily agree to: Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 Here's another view of the same climb. Looks protectable to me. Â Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 (edited) Here's another view of the same climb. Looks protectable to me. Â So, remind the Doctor again what it is about the bolts near the crack that prevent you from still placing your own gear? Â And Pope is saying he prefers to have a crack bashed out with pins so it has nice, fatty scars to bash bigger pins into, rather than have some 3/8" diameter holes in the rock? OK, whatever you say, there, Mr. Preserver-of-the-rock! Edited December 9, 2005 by Dr_Flash_Amazing Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 looks sketchy as hell - those dogbone draws are going to kill somebody cbs! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted December 9, 2005 Posted December 9, 2005 looks sketchy as hell - those dogbone draws are going to kill somebody cbs! Â Better hope to God the belayer isn't using one of them confounded Grigarees! Quote
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