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Bolting a crack to "protect it from pins"....


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Posted

Bolting, chipping, and glueing are ALL appropriate depending on circumstances IMHO. I wouldnt bolt a crack if it was protectable, but I would glue/chip creatively and discreetly in an area where the ethics deemed it permissable with respect to the ambiance and views of the developers as well as environmental/nature based considerations.. A sport route is a creation, a journey, and an expression of the creator. yoda.gif

Posted
Bolting, chipping, and glueing are ALL appropriate depending on circumstances IMHO. I wouldnt bolt a crack if it was protectable, but I would glue/chip creatively and discreetly in an area where the ethics deemed it permissable with respect to the ambiance and views of the developers as well as environmental/nature based considerations..

 

Bullshit, the developers don't own the rock. You have the same mentality as Bush Co. The US does not own the atmosphere

 

A sport route is a creation, a journey, and an expression of the creator. yoda.gif

yellowsleep.gif You really aren't that full of yourself are you?

In a nation of sheep, one brave man is a majority.

Props to Ed Abbey (The fools progress)

 

How do you think Ed would feel about chipping and glueing?

Posted
...is like deflowering a girl to protect her virginity.

 

When Dana's Arch was originally bolted, I did agree with the premise. The pitch was free climbable, and was getting beat to shit.

Posted

 

When Dana's Arch was originally bolted, I did agree with the premise. The pitch was free climbable, and was getting beat to shit.

 

How, in your mind, does the bolting of Dana's Arch compare with the bolting of the Zipper Roof?

Posted
Bolting, chipping, and glueing are ALL appropriate depending on circumstances IMHO. I wouldnt bolt a crack if it was protectable, but I would glue/chip creatively and discreetly in an area where the ethics deemed it permissable with respect to the ambiance and views of the developers as well as environmental/nature based considerations..

 

Bullshit, the developers don't own the rock. You have the same mentality as Bush Co. The US does not own the atmosphere

 

A sport route is a creation, a journey, and an expression of the creator. yoda.gif

yellowsleep.gif You really aren't that full of yourself are you?

In a nation of sheep, one brave man is a majority.

Props to Ed Abbey (The fools progress)

 

How do you think Ed would feel about chipping and glueing?

 

rolleyes.gif

Someone has to support the dark side. In my post I made it vaguely specific that it depends on the area. My personal preference is one that Ed would heartily agree to:

3160kanasket1-med.jpg

Posted (edited)
Here's another view of the same climb. Looks protectable to me.

 

So, remind the Doctor again what it is about the bolts near the crack that prevent you from still placing your own gear? confused.gif

 

And Pope is saying he prefers to have a crack bashed out with pins so it has nice, fatty scars to bash bigger pins into, rather than have some 3/8" diameter holes in the rock? OK, whatever you say, there, Mr. Preserver-of-the-rock! confused.gif

Edited by Dr_Flash_Amazing

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