Beta for NW face ice climb of Forbidden

[rcaaia]

We're planing to climb in a couple of weeks, has anyone been up this route lately? How's the 'schrund at the base?

[mattp]

Not lately, but I did the climb several years ago and it was great. It is also much easier than the book suggests, and I would guess that you will encounter no ice climbing on the route. Enjoy.

 

[ 09-11-2002, 10:26 AM: Message edited by: mattp ]

[wayne]

That shrund was a Monster a couple of years ago when I did it. We went all the way to rappelers left to get down with one rope, and it was scary. The snow top made a nice bollard. The route is gripping with new snow on it

[Lowell_Skoog]

I bet more than one climb is being discussed here. Are you asking about the NW face of the peak or the NW face of the North Ridge?

 

Viewed from Eldorado Peak two weeks ago, the NW face of the North Ridge had a sizeable section of bare ice at the bottom of it. I couldn't tell what the schrund was like, but I believe there was a gap between the glacier and the face. The NW face (all rock) looked easily accessible from the glacier arm to its west. Conditions could have changed in two weeks.

 

Guidebook cogniscenti may remember Beckey's description of the NW face from his 1977 Cascade Alpine Guide (Vol. 2, 1st edition, p. 289):

 

"An exceptional climb of purity, with enough variety and difficulty

to satisfy almost anyone. Its mixed character, requiring some

genuine ice climbing, places it in a rather select group of North

Cascades climbs requiring flexible alpine skills."

 

Compare this to George Lowe's description of the North Face of the Enclosure, Grand Teton, from the 1970 American Alpine Journal (p. 132):

 

"This superb climb has enough difficulties to satisfy almost anyone,

and its mixed character, requiring genuine ice climbing, places it

in a rather select group of difficult American climbs requiring

skill in both rock and ice technique."

 

Sound familiar?

 

[ 09-11-2002, 08:15 PM: Message edited by: Lowell Skoog ]

[Off_White]

Hey professor, thats some good scholarship. Seems to me that N. Ridge of Fury gets a slightly reworded similar treatment. Maybe Beckey didn't invent the "rather select group" phrase, but surely he is the original source of "pure joy and distinctly alpine" (my personal favorite Beckeyism).

[wayne]

What are you suggesting Mr. Skoog?

Mr. Becky did the "P" word?

I am shock and dissillusioned...

Everything I have ever known..

 

It was a reat climb though. I noticed he took out the word ICE between his two editions. It would have been an even greater route if it was mixed. I guess you could do a spring ascent and find some

 

[ 09-11-2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

[mattp]

Even if somebody was there yesterday and pronounced the 'schrund impassible, I bet you could find a way over it if you were really into it (similar feats of miracle climbing are accomplished all the time.) However, if you were stymied by the 'schrund you wouldn't have to "turn around" if you were flexible enough to traverse in from an alternate start or to divert to something else nearby - the N. Ridge or the NW Face route, for example. Go for it.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I would take matt's advice. I never did the route but often when people tell me things are impossible I find them doable. I am not hardcore but hard headed

[rcaaia]

We're considering the NW face of the North ridge. The big question is, "does the 'schrund pose an insurmountable obstacle to climbing this route?" If it does, then we'll consider some other alpine ice climb.

[rcaaia]

We're planning the NW face of the North ridge. The big question is, "Does the 'schrund pose a significant obstacle on this route at this time?" We'd hate to spend a day getting there only to turn around, especially because the current conditions on the approach sound ugly.

[DPS]

..don't need a helmet, got a hard, hard head.

 

Pearl Jam

[svilar]

It looked good from Eldorado last weekend. The schrund at the base didn't look that bad, but you may want to keep an eye on the temperature this week as fresh snow was still visible on the NW rock face (from last week). Have a fun climb.

[Blake]

So I was told that one of the northen face routes on Forbidden as a great climb with an ice start (1 or 2 pitches) and then good rock (cracks and chickenheads) that lead eventually directly to the summit. Would this be the NW face, or NW face of the North Ridge?

[Lowell_Skoog]

So I was told that one of the northen face routes on Forbidden as a great climb with an ice start (1 or 2 pitches) and then good rock (cracks and chickenheads) that lead eventually directly to the summit. Would this be the NW face, or NW face of the North Ridge?

 

Sounds like a not-very-accurate description that combines a little of both routes. My suggestion: Do them both. They're both great fun.

 

The NW face is a pure rock climb with potential glacier approach problems. The NW face of the N ridge is a snow/ice climb followed by a nice alpine rock ridge. I've done both multiple times and will probably do them again.

[layton]

and the snow portion is easily done with toy axes and poons if you bring 1-2 pickets.

[philfort]

The pics in this thread make it look like it's mostly ice (not snow) right now.

[layton]

it's still not very steep

[Alpinfox]

 

NE ridge of Torment looks like a LONG fun scramble. I'd say she goes at 5.5. Go get 'er.

[slothrop]

From last weekend: