Chad_A Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 I know there's some local alpine-ists looking at doing the NF. Yesterday, went up to the Eliot to do some seracing, so I here's some of the recon photos I took. Got a good view from on top of the seracs Upper Couloirs: Lower Couloirs/Ice flows: Cooper Spur/North Face: Picturesque Photos: Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 Dude! Thanks for posting those! Looks like things are starting to shape up! How was the ice cragging? Quote
Chad_A Posted October 10, 2005 Author Posted October 10, 2005 Hey, no problem. Gas is expensive these days! Seracing was very nice, but the lower crevasses are pretty filled in with snow, now. Mainly seracing from here on out, until winter completely covers everything. Quote
MCash Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 Thanks for the great photos. Looks like a lot of snow already. Did it look climbable this early? Its hard to tell if those crux sections are snow on ice or just snow. Quote
Chad_A Posted October 10, 2005 Author Posted October 10, 2005 Boy, that's hard to tell. Though, overall, everything else had some melting going on up there, and there were some ice daggers beginning to hang on the Cooper Spur ice routes that people always talk about, so I'd be surprised if there weren't at least some ice up there. My best guess is to wait for one more good storm, and some more freeze-thaw, and then it should be golden. Of course, last year I threw myself at it multiple times before I finally got it done. And it was well worth it... Quote
bigwalling Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 sweet man, can't wait to get after it! Looks fun. Quote
texplorer Posted October 11, 2005 Posted October 11, 2005 Ha ha, jake, I guess that is why you were selling your crampons. Anyway, looks like you'll be doing more snow than ice right now. If you want to get the most out of the climb you should wait awhile. Quote
bigwalling Posted October 12, 2005 Posted October 12, 2005 HA, no I bought better campons for overall climbing, I only had the others for use over like normal shoes. I need the money so no point in keeping them. Quote
kadyakerbob Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 i think i am gonna go up there this weekend and check it out, its supposed to snow on saturday and then clear up on sunday. not the best conditions but i think it might still go! nothing else is really in so why not. Quote
John Frieh Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 i think i am gonna go up there this weekend and check it out, its supposed to snow on saturday and then clear up on sunday. not the best conditions but i think it might still go! nothing else is really in so why not. Post some pics when you get back please! Quote
Chad_A Posted October 17, 2005 Author Posted October 17, 2005 Update: bad conditions. Went up seracing today; gullies look worse today than before, then a lenticular came in. I'd brought binoculars to get a good look at the ice pitches, but it doesn't matter; the right gully has a brown, rock-showing runnel going all the way down to the bergschrund. Thought I'd post this, and save some people gas cash. If I get up there later on this week, I'll post another update, but I don't see anything huge in the forecast that will change anything before then. Supposedly, some good snows were supposed to take place up there, but from what we say today, they didn't happen. Hopefully a good storm will come along, and then some good freeze-melt will happen Quote
Rat_In_Training Posted October 23, 2005 Posted October 23, 2005 What day were these most recent pics taken?? We were up there on Thursday and Friday, practicing Glacier travel and Ice Climbing. Quote
Chad_A Posted October 23, 2005 Author Posted October 23, 2005 What day were these most recent pics taken?? We were up there on Thursday and Friday, practicing Glacier travel and Ice Climbing. Haha...uh, 10.21.05 (Monday) Quote
kadyakerbob Posted October 25, 2005 Posted October 25, 2005 was up there saturday night sunday morning, did the spur up a bit then traversed over onto the north face. conditions definetely sucked but the whole face (minus the two gullies) is climbable. i went solo so some of the spots were a lil sketchy because of the powdery snow. Its not bad though, just bring a lot of pickets if you want protection. Quote
Chad_A Posted October 26, 2005 Author Posted October 26, 2005 So, did you make it into the couloirs, or is the an assumption based on conditions you saw elsewhere? Just curious. Here's conditions I saw yesterday on 10/24. It'll be interesting to see how much snow we actually get up there with this system. Hopefully, what we do get will consolidate quickly, and won't be enough to make us wait too long to climb it! Quote
ivan Posted October 26, 2005 Posted October 26, 2005 damn! looks good enough to me as is! why?!? why must i work? Quote
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