[TR] Mt Stuart- Complete North Ridge 8/18/2005

[ryanl]

Climb: Mt Stuart-Complete North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 8/18/2005

 

Trip Report:

Mark 'mule' Simon and I climbed the complete north ridge of Stuart last week. We didn't climb it fast-- we left in the afternoon of Wednesday the 17th and returned on saturday the 20th-- but I still feel good about how the trip turned out. The plan was to approach via Mountaineer creek, climb the ridge from its toe, descend around Sherpa Peak via Sherpa pass on Friday, at which point he would head down back to work for the weekend and I would head over Asgaard Pass to meet some friends who had a Snow Lakes permit. It didn't quite work out that way. So much the better.

 

We left Leavenworth around 1:00 on Wednesday and made it to the base of the climb by 6:00. We had food for two and a half days, no sleeping bags, a stove, and the capacity to hold 6 liters of water. We decided to bivy just below the toe of the ridge-- good bivy sites-- so we could study the start and hydarte ourselves from the nearby run-off.

 

 

I was nervous to climb. The route description calls for wide cracks in the 5.8 range right from the start and I wasn't sure how I'd manage with my pack. I kept telling myself that the fear I felt was a GOOD thing, and I tried to visualize working thru it the next day. The night passed slowly. It was cold, but not brutal, so we each slept sporadically. I had a Bibler winter bivy sac, Mark had his backpack. At times I shivered uncontrollably. I imagine he did as well.

We set our alarms for 4:30, but stayed in our bivies until the sun began to rise around 5:30. After filling our water bottles, we were climbing by 6:30.

 

Unfortunately, we began up the wrong crack. We properly identified the starting ledge, but in my focused anxiety I lead up a crack too far to the left. We realized our mistake after a pitch and a half, and after all was said and done we were on route almost three hours later.

]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/8475IMG_1619-med.JPG[/img]

 

Mark and I had never climbed together before. On top of that, neither he nor I have climbed much this summer. So we went slow. But we also went well. I knew from having lived with him in Chamonix a few years back that he would be a great climbing partner. I wasn't mistaken. I lead most of the lower ridge, often taking way too long to protect but always feeling confident. He carried six-- yes 6!!-- liters of water along with some of my gear. Hence the name 'mule'. Every time I apologized for taking so long he put my mind at ease by saying he had no problems at all with it and that he was just chillin. He seconded fast, always arriving at the belay winded, and we slowly made our way towards the notch. After almost 13 hours and 1900', we arrived at the notch. Mark felt like continuing. I was drained and recognized that my attention was beginning to wain. I asked if mined a bivy. He agreed and we set up for the night.

 

The second night was colder than the first. There was a full moon and we had spectacular views. At one point we fired up Mark's jetboil to heat some water for our bottles. Holding them close to our bodies we shivered until morning.

 

Mark lead the first half of the upper ridge. The climbing was sweet.

 

We did a combination of simul and pitched climbing. We knew most people simul climb the whole thing, but we weren't in a hurry and preferred the motto 'slow, steady, and safe.' I was so confident in the fact that Mark and I had the stamina, energy, and know-how to complete the climb that I never once worried about time. I've never had that feeling before. At the famous slab pitch I asked to take over the lead and Mark was nice enough to say yes.

 

I quickly lead up to the base of the Gendarme.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/8475IMG_1653-med.JPG' alt='8475IMG_1653-med.JPG'>

 

After the Gendarme we actually had route finding difficulties to the summit. Not quite sure what happend but we seemed to climb some pitches that were more difficult than they needed to be. We reached the summit around 7:30 pm.

 

 

We briefly toyed with the idea of a descent down the northwest buttress but quickly recognized the potential for epic and headed off down the cascadian couloir. I knew my rendez-vous at Snow Lake wasn't going to happen. All I could do was hope they would understand and not worry too much. We naively followed cairns down for almost 500 feet. I recognized from having skied the cascadian several years ago that we were too low so we hiked back up, found the right way, and headed down. We reached the valley bottom around 1:30 in the morning.

 

The next day was nothing but long. We had water, but no food. Three bagless bivies had taken their toll. The 11+ mile hike over Stuart and Goat Pass, down to Stuart lake and out took almost 10 hours.

 

We were drained, but never worried. When I look at the details of the trip the word 'epic' comes to mind. Never once, though, did the trip feel like an epic. It felt controlled and enjoyable. We simply lived in the mountains for 3 days. Thanks Mark for a great trip.

 

Goat Pass from Sturat Pass:

 

 

Gear Notes:

single 60 meter 9.4mm rope

full rack- was thankful to have wide cams for the lower ridge.

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Good job Ryan! A nice change from the usual we-made-it-car-to-car-in-someteen-hours kinda TRs.

 

PS: No offence to the car-to-car folks though.

[olyclimber]

Nice job, cool trip report.

[thelawgoddess]

thanks for the tr, ryan! nice to get some more details, your version of the tale, and see some pics!

[TeleRoss]

Nice TR man. Sounds like you guys had a great trip.

[Off_White]

Good report, shows the value of self knowledge and good decisions. I love a good story. I'm especially pleased to have your TR posted (and well received) in the wake of the fast sort, who have their own story to tell.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Good work guys! I like your slow and steady approach to a climb like this... Why would anybody want to rush to get off of that ridge!? Anyway, thanks for a good read

[gosolo]

cool tr. Wish the pics weere bigger! good job.

[lunger]

"We simply lived in the mountains for 3 days;" heck yeah, nice TR.

[ivan]

so, in hindsight, whatcha think about ditching the bivy sack in favor of a 1 lb sleeping bag?

[kevino]

he probably whishes he had one three years ago.

[lunger]

ivan is smack talking at me--smart ass.

[jhamaker]

Smart not to descend the NW butress. Descending 2000 ft of loose choss is not my idea of fun!