skykilo Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Climb: Early Morning Spire-So Big Retard Date of Climb: 8/14/2005 Trip Report: Hannah's a sport. She followed me on some retarded goose chase up Early Morning Spire when I blew it and got on the rock about 1k below the proper start. Here's a photo by Lowell Skoog: The upper dot shows the approximate location of the start to the route in Kearney's book. We started at the other dot to make it a real climb. Crappy disposable photo that shows the first seven pitches of what we did and some of the much higher pitches: Some crappy climbing photos: Gear Notes: Shoulda had the Courvoisier I left at camp for the unplanned bivy. Approach Notes: Trail, firn, scramble, firn, climb, glacier, scramble... Quote
Blake Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Nice work, how many pitches did your full route end up being? Quote
skykilo Posted August 18, 2005 Author Posted August 18, 2005 My best estimate is 21. For the full tedium of a blow-by-blow account, see here. Quote
iain Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 wow that sounds like a megathon. I remember having fun on the actual route though. It was still a long day (got back to car at midnight) even on route. Your red dotted line shows you going up the left skyline but I think the typical line is up the middle, then traverse over right to the right side. At least that's how we did it. You should have tried that monstrous offwidth at the top to complete the epic. Quote
skykilo Posted August 18, 2005 Author Posted August 18, 2005 We were never actually anywhere near 'the route' of which you speak. The dotted line at the top is more suggestive than anything else. Still had fun though! Quote
Crackbolter Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 No west arete or dorado? Shit, we never made it past the Triad! Nice job getting the summit after all that. Quote
ken4ord Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 That is awesome man, I love it when mistake turn out to be a cool adventure. Quote
AllYouCanEat Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 God damn Sky! We're climbing on saturday eh? I'd better get everything in order then ...sweet adventure man... Quote
fgw Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Awsome! Is the upper portion as good as Nelson & Potterfield would make you believe? Quote
dbb Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 sky: you're crazy. nice work! Marble Creek cirque is so beautiful and wild. looking down into the massive drop of forrest and devils club inspires one to climb up and out! great TR on your site. so how did you like the west arete on the way out? Quote
specialed Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Nice Sky! I always thought that Early Morning looked like a cool climb. Quote
JoshK Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Nice job! That cirque is fucking awesome. i loved the climb of dorado needle. I definiely recommend you go back and do it, it is a nice climb fer sure. Quote
pzack Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 The topo shows twelve pitches; I know we're off route but my pitches are bigger. Quote
layton Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 i loved your full TR. one of the best climbing reads i've seen in ages! nice!! Quote
Norman_Clyde Posted August 19, 2005 Posted August 19, 2005 Looks like you got some good traversing in on the lower half. I know how much you love traversing. Quote
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