4 - 7 (and beyond) inch...

[John Frieh]

cracks. 10s and 11s. squeeze chimneys preferred.

 

Need a list to flail on

 

Areas closer to PDX with high [] of wideness preferred but beggars can't be choosers. Roll call...

[Dru]

cirque of the uncrackables

[John Frieh]

route name/crag name (or location) please

[specialed]

Squampton.

 

Wasn't there already a thread on chimneys / offwidths in the northwest?

[John Frieh]

Yeah... I couldn't find it.

[Dru]

route name/crag name (or location) please

 

that IS the crag name

[billcoe]

Hi John:

 

I generally try to stay off of that stuff. Especially 10s and 11s. Short of driving to Yos and doing generator crack, Moby Dick, or Reeds:

King Kong (5.9) I think at Smith is pretty wide (and more like 5.10 stout) in places. I went out there with Steve Strauch, the FF Ascencionist years ago, and as we are racking up he recounted to me the story of the first free ascent how he got way the hell up there and ran out like 30-40 feet or so and as he's getting to the 5.9 crux he sees a 1/4 split shank construction bolt with a flimsy piece of 1/4 wide white webbing spun, not seen to the really tied, around the bolt. Jesus, says I, what did ya do? "I clipped it and made the move trying not to fall" he replies.

 

Luck of the draw I lead the crux pitch, get way the F* up there, run out like he says, there's a 1/4 split shank construction bolt with a flimsy piece of 1/4 wide real faded white webbing spun, not seen to the really tied, around the bolt.

 

You've got to be F*en kidding me, I think, and in that moment before I start peeing myself uncontrollably, I look left and see an irregularity in the cliff face, I make few moves and it turns out to be a shallow dihedral like @ 10 feet long that I immediatly put 4 pieces in, then I clip it and go, relieved to not have pissed uncontrollably on myself in front of one of my idols.

 

Also, 5th pitch of Free Lunch on picnic lunch wall at Smith is pretty wide, as is free for all at Beacon the left side I think: just look, but you are not forced strictly in the crack.

 

Hey, what are the details of the car breakin? (other thread would be better, you put that in lost and found.)

 

later:

 

Bill

[Drederek]

There's a nice little squeeze right of apron strings on the grand wall at squish. Something called yosemite crack up there as well. The last 12 feet of the splitpillar can be squeezed but its too much fun as a layback. p3? of regular route at careno crags (11worth) is 8" for a fair bit. Another at the right end of domestic dome. A cool looking one on mastadon dome at leav. Heard something about a chimney on top of mt jeff but have no clue if its true. The hollow flake pitch on the Salathe is almost as wide as my chest is deep. Epinephrine has a few places you can squeeze at red rocks(vegas) and theres a variation to it thats a beautiful flaring 6 to 20" chimney (pitch 4 or 5) I wanted to try the dolphin at josh but didn't make it over this year. Hex marks the poot was 6-7" for 12 feet. None of this close to Ptown but in my experience these things can be found all over the place if you look hard enough or not too closely to the guidebook .

[fenderfour]

I recently climbed lieback flake at Neat and Cool (Squish) as a chimney/offwidth. I don't know what it would be rated, but it worked me good.

 

If you haven't climbed it, it starts out a couple of feet wide and slowly narrows down at the top. I think it's about 40-50 feet in total.

[Szyjakowski]

carnival crack in ltown. 10d..athletic.

[Matt_Anderson]

Index - Lamplighter - holds to the right stop most of it being a proper squeeze, but the business is a squeeze.

Also, just to the right is an .11 offwidth. Again, a couple of usable features on one side (I won't tell you which way to face) reduce the difficulty - good thing, both cracks overhang 1 - 15 feet. . .

[Bill_Simpkins]

Funny offwidth Squamish Tale

 

Make sure to click on his links to the next episodes at the bottom of each page. It's pretty funny stuff.

[RuMR]

only 3" WERD ON THE STREET...

 

4-7"

[larrythellama]

there is some crag out past bulo point that has plenty of wide cracks, most in the .9 and .10 range. ask retired i think he put up most of the sport routes there. nice crag, tho everyone acts funny when the go there, like it is some secret. its like shit you can see it off of topozone.

 

there are a few super dirty wide cracks at petes pile as well. and some chossy one at gnarl ridge. the rock is super sharp at grnal ridge.

[billcoe]

there is some crag out past bulo point that has plenty of wide cracks, most in the .9 and .10 range. ask retired i think he put up most of the sport routes there. nice crag, tho everyone acts funny when the go there, like it is some secret. its like shit you can see it off of topozone.

 

..... and some chossy one at gnarl ridge. the rock is super sharp at grnal ridge.

 

Where is grnal ridge?

[larrythellama]

its that choss pile up on hood's east side, theres a hiking trail up there goes past that meadow with the cool shelter. it would be south of cooper spur.

 

here is some google beta

[John Frieh]

w00t w00t! Keep 'em coming!

 

Gotta get ready for old smoothie

[fern]

last pitch of the Burgner-Stanley on Prusik.

[Gary_Yngve]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/367408/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1

[billcoe]

Also, 5th pitch of Free Lunch on picnic lunch wall at Smith is pretty wide, as is free for all at Beacon the left side I think: just look, but you are not forced strictly in the crack.

 

 

Hey, you're ticking this stuff off aren't ya?

[John Frieh]

[eldiente]

There is a a few routes at Trout that are wide and hard. I think of specific names, buy if you go to the main wall they will be obvious.

 

-Nate

 

[RuMR]

There's a nice little squeeze right of apron strings on the grand wall at squish. Something called yosemite crack up there as well. The last 12 feet of the splitpillar can be squeezed but its too much fun as a layback. p3? of regular route at careno crags (11worth) is 8" for a fair bit. Another at the right end of domestic dome. A cool looking one on mastadon dome at leav. Heard something about a chimney on top of mt jeff but have no clue if its true. The hollow flake pitch on the Salathe is almost as wide as my chest is deep. Epinephrine has a few places you can squeeze at red rocks(vegas) and theres a variation to it thats a beautiful flaring 6 to 20" chimney (pitch 4 or 5) I wanted to try the dolphin at josh but didn't make it over this year. Hex marks the poot was 6-7" for 12 feet. None of this close to Ptown but in my experience these things can be found all over the place if you look hard enough or not too closely to the guidebook .

yosemite is not a squeeze

[RuMR]

anyone ever do brain salad surgery at smiff?

[fgw]

Smith ideas.

Off Tempo, 10a, east side, Lower gorge (#3.5 to #5 Camalot). Short but seems to deliver.

Titus, 5.9, west side, Lower gorge (much tipped out #6 C4 terrain).

Taxdor (have not done, gets an X), just left of Cruel Sister. Looks like OW to squeeze so probably not too X??

Blitzkrieg, 5.9, east side just around corner from Handjob. Have not done.

?? 5.8 just right of Wildfire in Lower Gorge. TR'ed it once.

Doctor Doom on Spiderman Buttress, 5.9. got scared off of it. Looks like #4 Big Bro(s) at least for a p... like me.

Gone With The Flake 5.9 on Red Wall. The flake at top can be climbed as an OW.

Ton of wide hard stuff at tc.

There is also this flared out bombay chimney going to OW (have not done it) on "backside" of Snake Rock, pic:

 

Will post some pics if needed.

 

EDIT IN: missed your "10-11" criterion.

Edited October 10, 2007 by fgw