Climbing around Portland

[scheissami]

Hey, I just moved to Portland and have only been climbing a short while. I've been to Broughton, but the area seems to have only a few easier routes (<5.9-5.10 bolted or <5.8 trad), mostly more moderate stuff. Does anyone have suggestions for some areas around here without having to drive down to Smith?

Cheers.

[sketchfest]

The closest climbing in pdx is out at rocky butte. There always seems to be a cc.com group hooking up and climbing out there during the week.

[J_Kirby]

Other than Rocky Butte, you'll have to drive a bit further. Horsetheif and French's Dome come to mind. Also Salmon River Slab if you don't mind climbing road cuts.

[ivan]

beacon rocks is the best shit in the area, though its about 45 minutes from p-town. beacon, though as replete w/ hard climbs as all the other pdx crags, actually has quite a few easy climbs in the 5.7 range

 

it won't open for another few weeks though

[goatboy]

Apparently, it opens on Sunday the 10th, according to another thread.

[billcoe]

Beacon Rock is some of the best climbing in Oregon. (I say that to tweak my Washingtonian brothers like Ivan who nailed this response already)

 

Trad skills are required almost exclusivly. Walking on the south side looking up at 200 foot plus high splitter finger and hand cracks still makes me moist.

 

Opens Sunday. Your mileage may vary, tax, license, dealer prep may be optional.

[billcoe]

Sorry dude, I just re-read your post - you are looking for easier stuff.

 

I'm sorry. Beacon is really mostly harder stuff. The one 5.6 I know out there will kill you if you don't pro it correctly and scares almost every 5.8 leader who gets on it (Boardwalk).

 

J kirby answered it correctly. Try Horsethief for a wide variety of TR, (R Butte is harder stuff although you can boulder on top), Smith is the next best, then Broughtons. Theres a little bolted wall in Lake Oswego that might interest your for 20 min or so.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Lake O???? Where's this (the wall) located?

Edited July 11, 2005 by Kevin_Matlock

[billcoe]

Err.... Lake Oswego of course. Near the N end of the Lake on a RR cut. It's in the PDX rock climbs book I believe.

[J_Kirby]

Waterboard City Park, South of Oregon City.

[jport]

The Lake Oswego crag has several short (4-5 bolts) sport routes. They range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.9ish. I spent a half-day out there a few weeks ago. It's entertaining climbing but certainly not fulfilling.

[Kevin_Matlock]

I have still to locate the elusive Lake O crag. You aren't talking about Waterboard in Ore City are you? THAT one I've found (and was small-ish).

Directions?

[kevbone]

Dont forget about Carver, one of the best places to climb, you can lead 5.8 gear and TR 11s and lead 10b face and tr 12s. It a great summer crag due to north facing.

[John Frieh]

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?ovi...v5N51l02SOgo%3d

 

Take Country club turn S on Iron Mt, head to North shore blvd Cabana. Park at that space right at the RR tracks (Union Pacific on the map). Look west @ 1/2 a city block right down the tracks, theres a little bolted rat hole right there.

[Kevin_Matlock]

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?ovi...v5N51l02SOgo%3d

 

Take Country club turn S on Iron Mt, head to North shore blvd Cabana. Park at that space right at the RR tracks (Union Pacific on the map). Look west @ 1/2 a city block right down the tracks, theres a little bolted rat hole right there.

 

Thanks John!

Rat hole? I'll take cheese as pro.

[John Frieh]

Beware the poison oak! Anything green is suspect!

[Kevin_Matlock]

Anything green is suspect!

 

Yeah, no shit....