catbirdseat Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 I visited the Gritscone yesterday for the first time since last summer and discovered that someone had stolen almost all the hangars on all the routes rated 5.9 or easier. About 5 routes and about 15-20 bolts were affected. It's a shame, because The Gritscone is a great place for people learn to lead for the first time. I'm hoping to organize an effort to replace the hangars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Thats really a shame. It is a good place to learn. The sad part is that the hangers will probably just be jacked again. That said I'd be willing to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 We should all start marking hangers with a metal etcher to see where they end up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Hangar = thing at Boeing. Hanger = thing on a bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 I stand corrected. Thank you, Dru. There is a guy named Lucky who etches all his hangErs with his initials. We could do the same. Also there are ways to make it more difficult to get the nut off the bolt, which I propose to implement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 are most of the bolts there wedge bolts (where you see threads sticking out of the rock) or sleeve bolts (where you see a hex-head)? With the wedge bolts you can always just mash up the threads. Sleeve bolts will probably have to be glued in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Gluing hangers on can make it hard to replace damaged hangers later on and can increase corrosion if it results in moisture being trapped along the threads in the bolt hole, behind the glue seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 this is complete BS. Why do people think that they can rip off hangers on the easier climbs? If you can't afford hangers, don't put up a new route, it is that easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Exit 38 is a great place for bolted climbs. Everything is relatively consolidated into a small area, a nice outdoor gym. In regards to gritscone, the routes aren't very high, it's a bouldering area. That could be why the bolts were pulled. Also, sometimes people want to feel badass, so they're assholes to everyone else, an ego thing. Marking hangers is a good idea, but in situations like this I doubt the hangers are stolen for other climbs. Chances are they are not putting up new climbs, just satisfying their ego. Most likely they end up in the dump. Don't let a few ruin it for the rest of us. Put em' back up. PS. That guy in that picture needs to pull up his pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Ther are two reasons I mark my hangers 1: To deter hanger thieves 2:As I have stated before I will pull myself any unjustly placed bolts I have put in. CBS your a right on guy... it is a lot more work doing good than spray'n The best way I have found to stop hanger thieves is to cut the end of the wedge anchor with a hack saw , place the hanger on the bolt, than when you hammer it in, it will smash the head stopping hanger removal, except by sawing off the head. If you are willing to do the work ,I will hook you up with some hardware and a drill. Good luck LUCKY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 (edited) are most of the bolts there wedge bolts (where you see threads sticking out of the rock) or sleeve bolts (where you see a hex-head)? With the wedge bolts you can always just mash up the threads. Sleeve bolts will probably have to be glued in? They are all wedge bolts. Whoever put up the routes failed to mash up the threads. ...gritscone, the routes aren't very high, it's a bouldering area... The routes are so easy that no self-respecting boulderer would bother with them. They were put there specifically for beginners. Edited April 28, 2005 by catbirdseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 replace them with Leepers! No one will want to take those... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 30, 2005 Author Share Posted April 30, 2005 I spoke with Garth Bruce, author of the Exit 38 Guide. He said hanger theft is an ongoing problem at the Far Side. He's already bought the replacement hangers and will install them on Monday, come rain or come shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 right on! were there still top anchors for those short routes? if memory serves, I believe there are chains on the top? I was thinking about taking a first timer out there sometime soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 Thats a shame they were stolen. I was out there last weekend and they were intact. It's a great beginer area. The bolts are excellent to teach a fledging leader even if all the routes go fine with just a crash pad to a veteran. The bolts on the crack route should come down though. ___ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 I spoke with Garth Bruce, author of the Exit 38 Guide. He said hanger theft is an ongoing problem at the Far Side. He's already bought the replacement hangers and will install them on Monday, come rain or come shine. Next time you see Garth, thank him for me. Gritscone is a great place to take new leaders, and people who steal hangers should be taken out back and shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 I'm not sure about 38, but at other areas where I have opened routes, dudes will often be a hanger or to short to finish their project for the weekend. They simply grab a hanger on one of their old routes and throw it on the new project with the intention of replacing it in a week or two. Unfortunately they never get replaced. __ I just visited that area above the gun show slab a couple of weeks ago. The routes are very nice and well done. It is a great addition however the ratings on the Y.D.S.are the softest in U.S.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 this fucking sucks! maybe we should find poop and dwainus and smash their faces just for a good mesure. just kidding. but all i can say- petz glue-ins. they are theft proof- even in places like poland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 3, 2005 Author Share Posted May 3, 2005 I'm not sure about 38, but at other areas where I have opened routes, dudes will often be a hanger or to short to finish their project for the weekend. They simply grab a hanger on one of their old routes and throw it on the new project with the intention of replacing it in a week or two. Unfortunately they never get replaced. Garth told me that at Gritscone, the bolts were placed with very little thread above the nut, making it very difficult to theft-proof the hangers. If it happens again, the bolts will be replaced with longer ones. I just visited that area above the gun show slab a couple of weeks ago. The routes are very nice and well done. It is a great addition however the ratings on the Y.D.S.are the softest in U.S.? Almost everyone I've spoken with agrees. The thing to do is to e-mail the guidebook author and tell him what you think they ought to be (Garth at info@northbendrock.com). I'm sure he'll be coming out with a revised edition at some time in the future. Perhaps he might even publish an addendum online that could be printed out for free. I'll bet he would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I guess this post got deleted in the glitches too and I already typed it twice yesterday!! I was at Gritscone on Saturday and the only routes without hangers are the .7,.7, and .5 on the right side of the 'main wall'. The other routes to the left of those all had new (or old) hangers. I forgot to check on the 5.7 and .9 around the left side. I saw some interesting characters out there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sansivera Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I live in Snoqualmie and frequently take new climbers out to the easier walls. Is there a place like Pro Ski that we could set-up a bolt fund (I know Valhalla Pure has one in Squamish) where people could drop in money to be picked up by Garth and others Martin knows are putting up routes? The money could be used for new routes or replacing rusted out hangers on older routes. Is this already being done? If so I'll happily contribute money. Just an idea. Anyone who steals hangers should be ashamed. Karma will get these folks. If you see anyone doing this say something. I know I will. Sansivera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tivoli_mike Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 I would be up to contributing to such a fund, perhaps even putting contribution cans out at the Seattle gyms would be good. of course I would charge an "agency fee" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Husbands Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 I get all my hangars at Exit 38. When I get enough I'm going to enhance the safety of the last two pitches of Outer Space. It's my prerogative 'cause I'm a climbin' fricken anarchist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 i think that some special hangars may have been ordered to repair these routes. standard 3/8" -1/2" hangars didn't fit the existing bolts. some folks are definitely making the effort to get these routes fixed. whoever did this i'm not the biggest fan of bolts out there but dog knows i've clipped plenty of them. these were nice, short, easy beginner routes. great place to take firs timers and great, super positive place for first leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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