Excellent Winter volcano routes?

[ryland_moore]

In training for Denali, I want to get out a do some nice Winter volcano routes with potential for a ski descent. I know Gib Ledges is a good winter route on Rainier and want to do it (although will probably only ski down from Muir). But what other routes exist that are nice winter climbs? Hotlum-Bolum on Shasta? What about Baker?

The object is not for technical difficulty as will be climbing WB on Denali, but want deep snow, higher elevation stuff that can be accessed with skins - no rock - I will save ice climbing for other weekend trips. Time is also important as I will be taking off a month from work, so will have very little vacation days leading up to May. I would suspect Gib Ledges may take a long weekend. Any routes out there for winter to be completed over Friday night back on Sunday late? Thanks in advance you all. Thought I'd give you all a break from Spray on the other posts.

[iain]

Would seem like any of the OR cascades would do, or maybe you were not interested in stuff nearby...

 

Mount Jefferson: West Rib / Milk Creek Gully

Mount Hood: Cathedral Ridge / Cooper Spur / Sunshine

 

Could pull these off in a tiring weekend...

[ryland_moore]

Perfect, just what I was looking for Iain. Keep it coming!

[jordop]

Ski traverses will get you that same snowslogging numbness epic without a cause feeling

[rbw1966]

Three sisters marathon. Let me know when you wanna go. I'm doing it this year.

[ryland_moore]

No epics w/out a cause here! More interested in the elements than the technical aspects. I am in for slogs and hard work in deep snow. Will save fun climbing on ice or doing steeper descents on other weekends.

[ryland_moore]

Sounds awesome rbw. How long you estimate that will take since the roads will be closed in Winter? 3-4 days at least? I think the apporach will take longer than the climb or am I wrong about this?

[rbw1966]

Should not take more than a long weekend. Hit the trailhead Friday evening, get an alpine start and go for it. Should be able to make the exit at Bachelor late Sunday night. Travel fast and light. In springtime conditions its possible to do it in 24 hours. Wintertime the approach is longer (about 6 miles I think--Iain?).

[iain]

That's a tough prospect in winter. You'd have to park back a ways on Pole Creek road and ski in to Pole Creek TH. The road is 10 miles but I don't know how far you can get up the thing in winter. It was at least a 3 mile approach to the TH in March. To head up the easy route on N. sister you'd have to almost circumnavigate the mountain via the se ridge, pick off the Middle Sister, ski the South ridge, and head up the N. ridge of South, then hump it back to Pole Creek. I'd probably want 3 days for that? really depends on Wx and new snow. (edited the time)

 

[ 11-13-2002, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

[rbw1966]

Hmmm. . .I seem to recall talking to someone who did it in a long weekend during the winter but I very well may be mistaken.

 

Also a good trip: circumnavigation of Mt. Hood during the winter. This is another on my list.

[iain]

didn't think about heading in from Dutchman's. Suppose that could be a better choice? I'll probably be giving this a shot sometime this year.

[iain]

quote:

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Originally posted by rbw1966:

Hmmm. . .I seem to recall talking to someone who did it in a long weekend during the winter but I very well may be mistaken.

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I'm sure there are plenty of folks out there who can do this. I would just not want to count on being back so soon in Winter out there.

[rbw1966]

Let me know if you need a partner. This has been on my list for a while.

[ryland_moore]

I still consider March on the cuff of Winter/Spring especially in the Cascades. Until it the snow starts to corn up, its still Winter! Lets think about a few of these trips for March then.

[iain]

Sure will. It's often hard to find people willing to suffer a bit on less technical endurance stuff like that. Ryland maybe we could get your Denali team out there too, that'll certainly give you guys some CV training

[rbw1966]

And don't forget your sled if you really want to make it a suffer-fest. I'll bring the wine to load it up with.

[iain]

Warm port on a winter Three Sisters trip goes a looong way.

[Stefan]

Although it is not high altitude, I think the traverse that Lowell Skoog does by Big Snow at the end of the Mid Fork Snoq road is pretty good. Think about it. At the end, you could come back and do spend a day at Goldmeyer Hot Springs to message all your muscles. Lowell Skoog would have a buttful of options for you!

 

But of course, most of the options that he would give you as well as me.....would be in Washington....

 

[ 11-13-2002, 05:15 PM: Message edited by: Stefan ]

[ryland_moore]

WA climbs/slogs are o.k too! I will be up there doing some BC skiing hopefully and at least one trip this winter to Lilloet.

[eric8]

Never done it so i can't tell you to much about conditions but i hear the easton on baker makes a good winter slog, you can ski down too.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Rumor persists all over that the Yokum Ridge is great. If I lived near there I bet I would try it...

[wayne]

_____________________________________________________________Originaly posted by rbw1966: Also a good trip: circumnavigation of Mt. Hood during the winter. This is another on my list.[/QB]

__________________________________________________

This is so true . The trip is amazing!!

 

[ 11-13-2002, 08:29 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

[j_b]

West Cascades winter climbing on weekends is very, very difficult. The chances of reaching the right conditions (snowpack, weather) on a single pre-ordered summit day are nearly impossible except during the on-average 2 weeks of settled weather we may get every winter.

 

I would not touch a higher elevation climb (and most lower) with deep snow in it with a ten foot pole. You've got to stack the odds in your favor over the long term. You're better off planning on skiing every day you can and jumping at the opportunity to climb if conditions are right (or you can get the time off). That'll prepare you for Denali and it'll be fun.

[Greg_W]

quote:

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Originally posted by j_b:

West Cascades winter climbing on weekends is very, very difficult.

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Isn't that part of the lure? Sounds like Ryland is looking to up his suffer-tolerance. What better place to do that than the Cascades in winter?

[COL._Von_Spanker]

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg W:

quote:

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Originally posted by j_b:

West Cascades winter climbing on weekends is very, very difficult.

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Isn't that part of the lure? Sounds like Ryland is looking to up his suffer-tolerance. What better place to do that than the Cascades in winter?

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He is referring to avy danger. If by suffer tolerance you mean suffocating to death under a few tons of snow then never mind.