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Driving to Mexico


Terminal_Gravity

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I'm heading to southern and eastern Mexico for a month mid December with the family. I've decided that the flexibility and cost savings of flying 3 people (& gear) is worth the gas, wear & tear and fear I have of driving (and parking) in the southern lands. My rig is new enough and tough enough to be reliable but old enough that I don't care if it gets a bit abused.

 

Does anybody have any words of wisdom, quixotic experiences or spray to share?

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Avoid driving at night.

Have all your paperwork --including Mexican auto insurance-- in order.

Bring no guns, or bullets, or long knives into the country. Mandatory jail time will result if you do and get caught.

Check out some guidebooks to give you an idea of possibilities (Lonely Planet is pretty good). Many hotels have courtyards for parking overnight.

Expect the unexpected pothole and wierd road stuff (like rebar stakes marking the edge of washed-out roads. Makes quite a mark on a car when hit at 70 mph).

Enjoy the trip.

I lived in Cuernavaca for awhile, and have made many trips to Baja. I am very fond of Mexico, and I've never been shaken down, or intimidated by anyone save for some youths in downtown Mexico City who were testing their knowledge of english foul language on me and my date. A reply of "Que te jodas" got a response of laughter, and that was that. Okay, the military roadblocks I've been through and the Navy searches of boats I've been on were intimidating. I haven't been to Chiapas, and have only heard bad things about that state.

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The trans-american highway (which isn't finished but goes through MExico) is the best bet. It is a toll road but a much faster way of travel than the free highways. Follow everybody else's advice, especially don't drive at night on long, abandoned stretches and get the Mexican auto insuarance.

 

Also the drivers are insane. Stop signs are optional, nobody uses their blinkers and expect to get cutoff all the time. Also road rage is not acceptable down there, you just live with it. Getting belligerent with another driver could only lead to possibly something worse.

 

Where in southern Mexico? I have a friend with a guide shop down in Oaxaca. He can lead you to some good climbing areas down there, as well as by Puebla and Pico de Orizaba. All bolted though.

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quote:

Originally posted by freeclimb9:

I haven't been to Chiapas, and have only heard bad things about that state.

I say [HORSECOCK] to that!!

 

I've traveled through Chiapas state twice, and I can say is it's an honest slice of Mexico I'd be happy to visit again. There are next to no Gringo tourists, and the smiles I encountered were the real thing. Yes there's the army looking for rebels and an occasional roadblock to deal with, but I assume TG and his family don't look like they're looking for trouble.

 

To be honest, you've only got a month, so I doubt you'll make it that far. But if you do... San Christobal de las Casas is worthy. Try the tepache (sp?) a local specialty and a very refreshing drink. It's more or less slightly fermented pinapple water packaged up in used Coke bottles with corks atop. If you head further East into the Yucatan you'll encounter wonderful local fare and tamales that will melt in your mouth. I don't know the names of some of the food I encountered, but mmmm.

 

Words of wisdom: Do take acidophilus suppliments daily and eat fresh yogurt when you encounter it.

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quote:

Originally posted by Mr. Natural:

I am going to do the winter holidays just outside of Ensanada with family and gurlfriend and was wondering if any of you gapers have spent time around there. What is the nearby climbing like? Is there a lot of it? Any favorite night spots? No donkey shows pleeeeze. Diving?

[big Drink]
and sorry fot the drift.

I think you mean Ensenada in Baja California Norte. Its port is dominated by a ship yard and cannery, so you won't be diving right there. To the south is Punta Banda which is a better diving destination. Do a googlesearch for "Dale's bunkhouse" for more info.

With regard to climbing, Canyon Tajo in the Parque Nacional Laguna Hansen is fairly close, but tough to describe how to get to. From Ensenada, you go through Ojos Negros enroute and by the lake itself along obscure and unmarked dirt roads. From the north, access is from La Rumarosa on Hwy 2. There's tons of climbing there --from big walls on El Gran Trono Blanco (Pan Am, the Giraffe), to long climbs (La Joya, Happy Hooker), to one and three pitch slabby climbs on impeccable granite domes. I've done much climbing there, but I couldn't remember details on which turns to make. Many of the best routes follow wispy dikes of quartz, and all would be considered runout by today's standards. The main first ascentionists of the area --Jon Smallwood and Dan Curly who established hundreds of routes-- have purposefully not published any guide and resist all attempts to do so. The result is the area is remote and feels that way. Check out an account of climbing there by Middendorf: http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Trono.html

Ensenada nightspots: Hussong's is good for a laugh, and to say "I've been there". Marina Coral has a nice restaurant. Fish tacos near the shipyard are a tradition.

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Bring some smokes and smutt and keep em in your front seat or on the dashboard for the roadblock/check. The little dudes w/M16 are about 16 (must be why it's called the M16) and they'll hassle you a lot less w/some porn and smokes. I'm totally serious. Check out the Boojum forest, San Ignacio, and the Catavina boulderfield. Trippy!

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quote:

Originally posted by Terminal Gravity:

One question. Why not drive at Night.

It's easier to see during the daytime. Night usually isn't a problem, but it's a travel time when long distance truckers and busses are more common. Since the lanes are narrower than the US standard, it's a tight squeeze. Livestock and unlit cars can also be a problem (I once almost had a head-on with an unlit car driving in my lane).

BTW, one little annoying quirk of Mexican drivers is using the left-turn signal to indicate that it's clear to pass them. Or maybe they're turing left. Keeps you guessing.

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quote:

Originally posted by Terminal Gravity:

Thanks all...Good Info.

 

I am heading to Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, the beaches west of Puerto Angel and ( of course ) Orizaba.

 

One question. Why not drive at Night. I have heard this so many times; but never why. Is it the potholes and stray livestock or is it more serious?

 

I have driven plenty in Baja (even at night) and didn't have any real problems but I have never driven in the interior.

Are you planning a side-trip up Orizaba en route to Veracruz by chance? "Family vacations" with ulterior climbing motives sewn in are one of my specialties. [smile] I'll be down there in late January. I'll be flying.

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Thanks all...Good Info.

 

I am heading to Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, the beaches west of Puerto Angel and ( of course ) Orizaba.

 

One question. Why not drive at Night. I have heard this so many times; but never why. Is it the potholes and stray livestock or is it more serious?

 

I have driven plenty in Baja (even at night) and didn't have any real problems but I have never driven in the interior.

 

[ 10-31-2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

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I was always told not to drive at night on roads other than major toll roads b/c you have to go through towns and could potentially be stopped by bandits who will steal everything you have. I had a friend down in Argentian who drove his ride from Minnesota down there. He outfitted his truck with wiring over the windows and had a friend place a lock b/w his hood and the frame so that no one could go under his hood and steal his engine. He also had a mechanism on his battery that could be manually turned off under the Hood so when he left the car for a period of time (he was mainly down ther to paddle the Rivers) he wouldn't worry about anyone stealing his truck, b/c the juice was shut off. It was about as secure as you could make it, but I don't know if that is necessary for a trip like this. Enjoy.

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The busses are cheap and safe. Leave the car in the US. If you take your car accross the border you don't have to use it all the time. Travel light because you don't want ot leave anything in the car. Worrying about the car and your stuff may distract you from enjoying your trip. I have also heard that the trains down there are ok. Buy The Peoples Guide to Mexico. ther is also a Let's Go book for Mexico. Don't get into an acident. Have fun, thanks again for the beer in Lworth.

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