Cold Weather rock climbing gear mods

[Dru]

The other day when i was preparing to climb at Squamish I knew it was going to be cold and I decided to do something about it...

 

I took an old wool sock and cut it in half just above the heel, then i cut the toe open with a slit along the seam.

 

Now I have two short wool tubes that I can pull on over my rockshoes, and that fit between my pants cuff and rock shoe. Basically ankle warmers.

 

It makes it a lot nicer to take your shoes off to climb some cold rock. A bonus is that it makes you look like you are wearing wool socks in your rockshoes, Andy Cairns style

 

Another thing that i have found work really well is to put a shake and heat pad inside my toque, against my forehead, and another one inside my neck gaiter at the back of my neck. Seems to make me feel a lot warmer and you can warm up your cold hands against either without having to get the pads all chalked upin your chalkbag.

 

What aresome other useful tips ppl have? because it might be anotyher 2 months of cold before the rock warms up.

[Alpinfox]

 

to

 

 

or

[Alpinfox]

I've got a pair of leather belay gloves that fit me really well, and I've climbed in them a few times with pretty good results. Large edges and hand jams are no problem; small crimps don't feel very secure, so you ain't climbin' hard, but at least you are outside!

 

Pour hot water and a package of jello into a nalgene. Put nalgene in insulated bottle jacket or whatever OR calls those things. Stays hot/warm for hours. I've only done this for ice climbing, but it would be nice for cold rock days too I guess. Warms the hands and the insides. A thermos full of Hot Toddies would be good too. I've gotta try that.

 

I saw RuMR at Smith once with a little portable propane heater.

[Dru]

Yes, after I saw a slideshow by Barry B. once featuring Dave Cheesemond RIP and a tattered pair of wool gloves, I went out and bought myself a dedicated pair of "rock jamming gloves". Cut the fingertips off, but leave the fingers long, unlike "fingerless gloves". Wool on dry granite has good friction

 

I normally use the Water Bottle parka for both ice and rock, but for rock, with short approaches, i am more willing to bring a stainless steel thermos as well.

 

Also rock is usually dry when its cold, so I wear Carhartts and get the benefit of increased wind resistance compared to nylon/poly type fabrics.

[Blake]

When I climbed at Beacon in the howling winds with JoshephH he suggested (and with good results) that the belyer stick their chemical hand warmers under the wrist cuff of their gloves, right on top of all the veins ad arteries. You can then climb gloveless, but the hands will stay warm for a while.

 

 

Dru, were you sliding your wool sock tubes down over your feet when you took or shoes off to belay, or were these just ankle warmers?

[Dru]

why would i take my shoes off to belay?

[fern]

I like to wear a long sleeve button up shirt, roll sleeves up or down, undo or do up buttons, turn collar up against the wind etc, very versatile on warm-in-the-sun-freeze-in-the-shade days. Psychological adjustment helps with cold climbing too - just because you can't feel your fingers doesn't mean they won't work just the same as if they were warm, so don't worry about it and just keep climbing instead of trying to warm them mid-pitch and tiring out. Also don't wear sunglasses even when it's bright - squinting fools you into thinking it is summer

[carolyn]

When I climbed at Beacon in the howling winds with JoshephH he suggested (and with good results) that the belyer stick their chemical hand warmers under the wrist cuff of their gloves, right on top of all the veins ad arteries. You can then climb gloveless, but the hands will stay warm for a while.

 

Crazy creek makes a pocket for shake and warms that you velcro to your wrists Thermaband . I use them on cold rock days and on ice. My hands havent been uncomfortably cold since the day I started using them - two yrs ago. I will cry if I ever lose them. they are the BEST bit of gear I own! One of my climbing partners duct tapes shake and warms to his wrist. Just make sure you dont make it too tight or it will defeat the purpose and/or give you an unneccesary pump.

 

And dont forget your best windproof, waterproof shell!!!!

[bobinc]

We climbed Prince of Darkness on Dec 27 (to avoid crowds, obviously) and threw a handwarmer into the chalk bag and also laced one on top of the toes. I seem to recall a modified wool sock street waif improv look for much of the rest of the foot, as well.

[chucK]

I think this picture relates to both Dru's and Bob's comments:

[Dru]

yeah that's what i'm talking about willis!

is that Clean Break, chucK?

[Blake]

why would i take my shoes off to belay?

Because they aren't very comfortable, they are just tight and work well.

[Dru]

why would i take my shoes off to belay?

Because they aren't very comfortable, they are just tight and work well.

 

if i'm cragging i would take them off and put my regular shoes and socks on

 

if i am doing multipitch i would keep them on, feet would be colder with them off anyhow and they aren't that tight

 

any more questions

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

DFA's got this bitchin' idea for an electric chalk bag. It hasn't been made yet, but all the materials are at hand. Basically, the Doc's gonna take a pair of them electric socks with the D-cells (maybe they're C's--DFA can't recall) on 'em, modify as necessary, and insert them between the shell and liner of a chalk bag. Voila, easily controllable toasing power!

[Dru]

DFA's got this bitchin' idea for an electric chalk bag. It hasn't been made yet, but all the materials are at hand. Basically, the Doc's gonna take a pair of them electric socks with the D-cells (maybe they're C's--DFA can't recall) on 'em, modify as necessary, and insert them between the shell and liner of a chalk bag. Voila, easily controllable toasing power!

 

maybe you can modify it from a TNF Met5

the weight of Ds and Cs is a bit much though. maybe you should design a AAA version for the redpoint burn

[Jake_Gano]

Lightweight polypro vapor barrier socks under your rock shoes won't effect the fit or performance, and will keep you a little warmer and keep your shoes a lot drier, so no more clammy feet and cold days.

[Dru]

"vapour barrier" and "no more clammy feet" just don't go together

[RuMR]

I've got a pair of leather belay gloves that fit me really well, and I've climbed in them a few times with pretty good results. Large edges and hand jams are no problem; small crimps don't feel very secure, so you ain't climbin' hard, but at least you are outside!

 

Pour hot water and a package of jello into a nalgene. Put nalgene in insulated bottle jacket or whatever OR calls those things. Stays hot/warm for hours. I've only done this for ice climbing, but it would be nice for cold rock days too I guess. Warms the hands and the insides. A thermos full of Hot Toddies would be good too. I've gotta try that.

 

I saw RuMR at Smith once with a little portable propane heater.

 

yeah!! Everybody gives me shit about that, but you know what...all the chickas gather round to warm up...like moths to a flame, i tell you!!

[iain]

The ankle warmer thing is a good idea, and not just for sitting at a belay.

 

Ballet dancers have been doing this for years with leg warmers to combat the lack of coordination at the feet, associated with mild cooling of the body. One of the first signs of hypothermia is stumbling, and this lack of circulation to the lower legs is the reason why. You will actually be more coordinated with your footwork if you warm your lower legs in the cold weather.

 

Leg warmers: not just an 80's fashion accessory.

[Dru]

hell maybe the mounties are on to something with the all gaiters all the time look then!

[olyclimber]

Dru, is this what you rigged up?

Looks pretty sweet.

[Mike_G]

End of thread, please. I don't want to see what he wears in the summer.

[Blake]

Mix gatorade powder in your water, and it wont freeze as quickly.

[luwayo]

at Krack Rock on sunday, 3 out of 4 were bare handed & feeling the cold. i was the only one who taped the back of my hands & it went a looong way in reducing my heat loss to the rock. had me wishing for those pricey hand jammies. (starting up the base was a slimefest though - could not enjoy the sensation as it ran past my elbows).

 

as for wool on a cold wet route - don't the scots use it as aid for its sticking ability?

Edited February 22, 2005 by luwayo

[Dru]

I believe the Scots "use wool" for more than just cold wet routes