swaterfall Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 ...really suck. "I've climbed Polar Circus". Actually you followed every hard pitch. "We're gonna do (this and that) route in the Canadian Rockies." Actually I'm gonna freeze my ass off watching you sew up 20 meters of WI 3- and lower you off of WI 3+. At least it's so cold now that climbing would suck anyway. I hope that someone out there is having fun right now. Quote
Off_White Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 Probably wouldn't spoon with you either, huh. Does anyone else remember that thread where the two people who met here went to squamish and had some sort of meltdown, and raged at each other online about how much each other sucked and were incapable of climbing what they said they could? It was one of the most awesome hissy fits here ever... Quote
Off_White Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I had to go hunting, but I found it: start here I don't think either Kainsacad or RikRik ever showed up around here after this. Quote
JayB Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 How in the hell did I miss that one? Classic. Quote
olyclimber Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 so....swaterfall, was it one of these to guys that you're talking about? Quote
John Frieh Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I can't agree with you more... suck! It’s funny looking in the partners wanted forum right today and I see at least a few fluffed climbing abilities being advertised. And I wouldn't know any better unless my path had crossed theirs at some point. Generally I tend to ask very specific questions: What are some of the harder routes you've done? Why? Which pitches did you lead? What pitches did you follow? What is the hardest route you have bailed off of? Why did you bail? What is your climbing background? Where did you acquire your climbing skill set? Who else from the site have you climbed with? Do you know how to belay escape/lower someone? Have you practiced it? What first aid/avy/etc training do you have? What expectations do you have for this climb? What expectations do you have of me as a partner? And generally even after that I only commit to routes/climbs I know I could ropegun every pitch and bail easily if necessary. After a few test climbs then I feel comfortable going after the more committing routes with them. And always make sure to ask: to you have any allergies? are you on any meds? do you have any medical conditions I should know about? Quote
Ponzini Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 Anyone want to go climbing this weekend? I'm awesome at everything, 5.12c, WI6+, A5 etc..... Quote
thelawgoddess Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 hey swaterfall, kailas called me the other day and told me you were not having a very good trip. that is seriously lame. and in such an awesome place to be. can't say i've been there exactly, but i feel your pain. hope your winter's going well otherwise. kailas said he was snowed in town. i would say it sucks to be stuck in a place where there's so much snow you can't ski it ... but i'm not gonna because i'm stuck in a place where there isn't enough and i think that's a much worse problem! Quote
catbirdseat Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 Remember Uncle_Tricky's saga, Friction is Stranger than Truth? Quote
swaterfall Posted January 14, 2005 Author Posted January 14, 2005 Sorry d00ds I was just venting after a few beers. My brother got an earful last night too. The skiing has been off_the_heezy this trip so that's been good but I had planned on doing more climbing. I've decided to make the best of it 'cause it just won't do to be in a hissy for the next week. Quote
selkirk Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I can't agree with you more... suck! It’s funny looking in the partners wanted forum right today and I see at least a few fluffed climbing abilities being advertised. And always make sure to ask: Can you belay 5.12? do you have any allergies? are you on any meds? Will you share? Do you spoon at bivys, or at least come prepared with hot chicks and booze? Do you have your own velcro gloves? ? Quote
John Frieh Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 Take a WFR. Learn why you should ask those questions of new partners unless of course you don't plan on venturing outside the safe confines of smith. Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I can't agree with you more... suck! It’s funny looking in the partners wanted forum right today and I see few fluffing abilities being advertised. Quote
RuMR Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I can't agree with you more... suck! It’s funny looking in the partners wanted forum right today and I see at least a few fluffed climbing abilities being advertised. And I wouldn't know any better unless my path had crossed theirs at some point. Generally I tend to ask very specific questions: What are some of the harder routes you've done? Why? Which pitches did you lead? What pitches did you follow? What is the hardest route you have bailed off of? Why did you bail? What is your climbing background? Where did you acquire your climbing skill set? Who else from the site have you climbed with? Do you know how to belay escape/lower someone? Have you practiced it? What first aid/avy/etc training do you have? What expectations do you have for this climb? What expectations do you have of me as a partner? And generally even after that I only commit to routes/climbs I know I could ropegun every pitch and bail easily if necessary. After a few test climbs then I feel comfortable going after the more committing routes with them. And always make sure to ask: to you have any allergies? are you on any meds? do you have any medical conditions I should know about? now this is a funny post... Quote
John Frieh Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 You guys ever had a partner black out while you are leading hard trad? I have. How about someone who is severely allergic to certain pain killers have a reaction? All I'm saying. Quote
selkirk Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 deep breath, count to three, relax.... repeat. We get it, Swaterfall isn't asking for advice though, just ranting..... Everyone's either had partners who were greek gods in their own minds or will in the future... part of the fun is bruising their ego's for them!! Quote
olyclimber Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I always give my partners a belay test before I'll climb with them. But if they have a belay card from somewhere else, I usually accept it. Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 Just having fun with you, Nolse. I like to know something about my partners, too. But the way you put it, it sounds like you've got a five-page questionnaire that you give to prospective partners. Quote
Dru Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I always ask my new partners if they found my wiregate biner on Girth Pillar. Quote
olyclimber Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 I don't see how you can beat just going to local crag with someone and climbing something. There are general skills and then there is climbing ability, you can make an assessment just by observing in some semi-controlled conditions...and also just by their attitude. But determining whether you're going to climb with someone just by interrogating them doesn't seem to be great way to start off a friendship of the most funnest. I would think someone with allergies would know it and be concerned for thier own life and let you know? Quote
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