Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It seems like if people either alerted the mags that they were climbing stuff in this neck o' the woods, it would get in there. Either that or if someone wrote an article about climbers or climbing or climbs in the PNW. The mags are full of Dean Potters and Dave Grahams because those folks have a name for themselves, and news travels quick about them (or, in the case of Graham, there seems to be some sort of press corps assigned to him). And of course a lot of these climbers are sponsored, so they are going to make sure their names keep showing up in the mags in order to collect the $$$ and the free gear (like the self-portrait photo of Dean Potter atop Cerro Torre(?) recently where he's holding up his [name brand] ice axe off to the side of his head -- product placement, baby!). You have to blow copy editors to make it into the mags and most PNW climbers just dont put out for simple stuff like their picture in a mag. Quote
Crackbolter Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 There couldn't be 50 different people climbing 5.10 alpine routes. Where do get 50 from 8? Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Well, if people aren't going to bug the mags, and keep bugging the mags (unless they already are -- correct DFA if he's wrong), then there's no reason that PNW climbers are going to end up in there. Obviously, if there is indeed some sort of CO/UT bias (although aren't a lot of the hardcores in the mags from CA or back East?), it's going to be a fight to get them to recognize the PNW. If they don't even know that anything's happening over here, though, it'll stay that way. [ 10-15-2002, 11:47 AM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ] Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: There couldn't be 50 different people climbing 5.10 alpine routes. Where do get 50 from 8? Why not? I figure that those 8 are only people I know, mostly from Canada. There are lots of climbers I don't know and it is reasonable to assume they climb at the same level so I upgrade 8 to 50 based on the fact I dont know 80% of the climbing community. If you want more names - John Millar; Kelly Franz; Mike Spagnut; so that's 11 now... [ 10-15-2002, 11:53 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 I have seen snafflehounds onsight 5.13 in the alpine Quote
texplorer Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 CBolter- Add highlander and texplorita to your list, (even if we did a FA by mistake) Oh and there are so many f'in hardmen in the NW. You probably don't see them cause they traditionally climbed your bolted cracks back in the 70's with hexes and snafflehounds. Quote
texplorer Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Are you threatening me. . . . I am the great cornholio Quote
ryland_moore Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 I agree with Dru and Tex, There could be more than 50. Just because you don't know or have heard of them doesn't mean they don't exist. The only way they are getting in the mags iis if they are bragging about this FA done that way etc. For every 5.13 sporto you read about in the mags, there are at least 10 more equal or better than that person who doesn't care about announcing their accomplishments but are climbing for themselves. I am sure this is even more ture with alpine rad trad climbers. Even though there are not too many hard FAs left like the one High and Tex stumbled upon this summer doesn't mean that there aren't hard mo fos from PNW climbing hard FAs elsewhere (Say Yukon or Northern BC?) Quote
James Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 [/qb]I like to watch the Colorado and Utah climbers navigate slide alder, devil's club, gnarly stream crossings and all the other neat stuff that is special to us Cascade Climbers. [/QB] many of my climbing friends subscribe to this publication, but i think alot of people on this board would not be interested... anyway, just thought i would throw it out there. http://www.packandpaddlemagazine.com/ Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 I've met a whole lot of suckers from Colorado and California.. I even used to live on different sides of the Sierras myself. Anyway to the point of climbing through bushes slide alder and rivers- It's a way of mountaineering here. It's expected. I've seen plenty of people from other states thrash around better than locals here. But I have seen a lot of whiners too. Quote
erik Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: quote:Originally posted by jon: Well fuckena maybe we should start our own magazine? As soon as the NW community gets enough to write about, it will happen. When was the last time someone did something noble in the PNW? When will we see more than a handful of FA's or FFA's in a year? Who will be the next Peter Croft, Greg Child, Pete Doorish, Fred Beckey or Paul Boving? As of today, I know no one (Well maybe I do but no one flashing 5.10+ alpine first ascents.) Quote
allthumbs Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 I wipe my bum with devil's club. It's all good. Quote
Crackbolter Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 It is hard to distinuish the B.S. from the truth from any one of you folks. I could ask if anyone has climbed an alpine trad route on-sight first ascent at 5.10+ and I coud be receiving some real skeptical beta. Who has REALLY climbed a ground-up (never top roped),on-sight, multipitch (more than 3 pitches?), gear belays (or maybe a couple of belay bolts),5.10+? Geez, my hat is off to you guys! I guess there is a need for a local hardman magazine. My point to Dru was overruled when he not only changed the rating of his on-sight F.A. from 5.10c to 5.10b, not that one letter grade matters. But also when he disclosed that he knows 20 percent of the P.N.W. climbing community. Sorry Dru but I try to pay close attention to detail when someone makes a claim to fame. [ 10-15-2002, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ] Quote
texplorer Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Well, I doubt you'll get too many people saying they have "onsighted" a .10 alpine route because: a) they don't chestbeat b) they are out there climbing one right now c) .10+ is not necessarily something to brag about [ 10-15-2002, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: texplorer ] Quote
erik Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Crackbolter: There couldn't be 50 different people climbing 5.10 alpine routes. Where do get 50 from 8? Why not? I figure that those 8 are only people I know, mostly from Canada. There are lots of climbers I don't know and it is reasonable to assume they climb at the same level so I upgrade 8 to 50 based on the fact I dont know 80% of the climbing community. If you want more names - John Millar; Kelly Franz; Mike Spagnut; so that's 11 now... crack: looks likes he said he doesnt know 80%....... hmmm fine detail skillz there!!! Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Why argue with an idiot? It only encourages them. Quote
texplorer Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 In my opinion CB, It is hard to tell if people are just spraying or are real hardmen. My experiences in the last year in the NW has shown me that there are quite a few people cranking some hard stuff. I don't fully know why we are left out of the mags and I really am kinda happy about that. Look at cool places like Indian Creek. That place is far from being overrun with climbers but it is getting more and more crowds in the main areas. I like climbing in the NW and hope that every one else thinks its choss and gos to colorado. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 CB Wrote: Who has REALLY climbed a ground-up (never top roped),on-sight, multipitch (more than 3 pitches?), gear belays (or maybe a couple of belay bolts),5.10+? I bet lots of people have and could. Sadly the NW doesn't have a bunch of good rock that is easily accessible and extended periods of good weather and clean!. Put almost anyone that can climb 5.11 at the base of Dragontail or Prusick and say go contrive a multi pitch 5.11 and most could. The question isn't do or can routes exist. It is will they be good are they worth the effort. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 I know a number of people that can climb 5.10+ in the mountains first try and some have done it on a new route. They don't seem to care about posting it on the internet... Some don't have computers... Is that the new "hardman" criteria these days. Seems like some low standards since some people were doing that 20 years ago. There is a lot more to climbing than new routes since beckey took most of the good lines here anyhow. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: The question isn't do or can routes exist. It is will they be good are they worth the effort. I have to quote Puget and agree with these two remarks Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 There are hundreds of good unclimbed routes out there. Send me $500 and I will tell you where one is. Incidentally, Jordan Peters and Mike Layton, you owe me $250 each. Quote
E-rock Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 5.10+ FA's haven't gotten people in the magazines for a long time, unless they write an excellent article themselves and include many pretty pictures. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: There are hundreds of good unclimbed routes out there. Send me $500 and I will tell you where one is. Incidentally, Jordan Peters and Mike Layton, you owe me $250 each. Sure anyone can contrive a new route. By the way I think most of us were talking about the Cascades in south of the Canadian Border. You guys up there have lots of territory to still explore. It's not exactly the same game down here. I'd like to see hundreds of good unclimbed ridges, buttresses, or faces that are worth the effort and aesthetically better than existing lines near them in the WA cascades. Good rock too. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 E rock is right about pics! They are key. If you did a 5.8 FA with great pics you'd be in a magazine! Being ugly has been keeping me from fame for years! Quote
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