Blake Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Anyone have recomendations for alpine trad for this weekend? Will be coming from the west side, and wont be able to leave seattle until ~10am sat. I'm thinking something with an approach saturday afternoon, and a climb and hoke out sunday morning, early afternoon. Other than Sahale, what fits this profile? Moderate glacier stuff, and rock up to mid 5th class is what would work. I know i've seen posts like this before, but i was having no luck with the "search" on here. Quote
specialed Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 You should check out Nelson's Select Vol's 1 and 2. That should keep you busy for a while. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Have you used ascenders before or can you follow 5.10/11? All my partners for the weekend are disappearing... Quote
Blake Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 Have you used ascenders before or can you follow 5.10/11? All my partners for the weekend are disappearing... No, and possibly but no solidly. However, I've got a couple of partners. we might end up not doing anything alpine. Quote
Blake Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 You should check out Nelson's Select Vol's 1 and 2. That should keep you busy for a while. Good Call. Ingalls and the Tooth look like possibilites, but they don't have that NoCa wilderness type feel. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Forbidden is the first climb that pops into my mind when I read your requirements... Quote
Dru Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Prusik in a day Sunday. That way you can hang out with the cool cats at RopeUp on Saturday night! Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 I thought he said glacier was a requirement? If not Prusik in a day would be great (or anything in there) as oktoberfest is in full swing in 11worth... Quote
Blake Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 nothing is really a requirement. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Quote
Blake Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 Prusik in a day Sunday. That way you can hang out with the cool cats at RopeUp on Saturday night! I'm sure that'd be a great day trip, but i doubt we could pull off 20 miles of hiking AND the climb, and still back over to puget sound by early evening sunday. Quote
mattp Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 The North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck might be a good one. I bet the upper face is rather snowy and alpine feeling, but I don't think any storms are predicted between now and then so the snow ought to be consolidated somewhat and not plastered on any rocks that you'd have to actually climb on. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Colchuck or DT it is. Or Ingalls. Quote
pzack Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 Blake, I got the impression that you wanted something mellow, and you'd like to be home in time for a late supper on Sunday... Here are some more mellow ideas then the ones given so far: Seven Finger Jack and Mt. Maude are class 2 or 3 scree walks in the Entiate range. The larches are stellar around there right now. The view from either of those 9000' peaks would be worth the hike. Cathedral Rock (Class 4 & Chossy, but it has a nice profile as you hike up to it), camp at Peggy's Pond, Climb Mt. Daniel (Glacier) the second day. Washington Pass: Beckey Rt(5.6) or SEWS S Arete(5.4 and easy for 5.4) would be easily done in the manner you described. I hear that Black Peak has an easy S. Shoulder and an interesting ridge climb (NE Ridge) and that you can hike in a short ways and camp at a nice lake... but I haven't done it yet. Quote
Toast Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 See Gary's post on Kyes Peak. It's a goodie. You'll probably want a second tool, though. It gets steep in places and there'll be hard glacial ice underneath the snow that fell recently. Sloan Peak is another one to consider. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 I just got a report on Kyes from someone who just climbed it. It is much more broken up than in 2002. I climbed it in both 2002 and 2003 and there was little difference, so its safe to say its worse than last year. Allow a little more time. My friend said they bivied on the Yellow Shoulder. Quote
Blake Posted September 29, 2004 Author Posted September 29, 2004 Blake, I got the impression that you wanted something mellow, and you'd like to be home in time for a late supper on Sunday... Here are some more mellow ideas then the ones given so far: Seven Finger Jack and Mt. Maude are class 2 or 3 scree walks in the Entiate range. The larches are stellar around there right now. The view from either of those 9000' peaks would be worth the hike. Cathedral Rock (Class 4 & Chossy, but it has a nice profile as you hike up to it), camp at Peggy's Pond, Climb Mt. Daniel (Glacier) the second day. Washington Pass: Beckey Rt(5.6) or SEWS S Arete(5.4 and easy for 5.4) would be easily done in the manner you described. I hear that Black Peak has an easy S. Shoulder and an interesting ridge climb (NE Ridge) and that you can hike in a short ways and camp at a nice lake... but I haven't done it yet. Thanks for the tips. I'd be interested to see Maude and 7FJ from that side, since i see them all te time from the north, but i already did Fernow this summer and want a route that involves trad leading. I'm thinking Concord tower and Liberty Bell via the beckey route. Quote
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