Light boots on Rainier

[Cagey1]

I'm curious to see if anyone has climbed Rainier in the Spring with any of the new lightweight mountaineering boots (ie. Trango S, Trango Extreme, Garmont Tower, etc.) And what your experience was? I've worn La Sportiva Lhotses in the past (2x) but would like to go to a lighter boot.

[pc]

I have used the Towers. They worked good. My toes were a bit cold in the morning. After walking a bit my toes heated up and were happy. I slept with my boots in the tent and the insoles in my sleeping bag. Also had a nice fresh pair of socks for the summit. I beleive we climbed in early May, Gib Ledge route.

 

Cheers

[John Frieh]

Second the towers... I love mine. Also I know Terry McClain wore lw leathers in early April when he, Pandora and I climbed Nisqually Ice Fall.

 

One thing that will dictate footwear selection is how long you will be on the mtn... Generally longer times increase the chance the boots will not dry out and be wet on summit day. Just a thought.

 

Also welcome to the page but in the future post gear questions in the gear critic section. Cheers!

[willstrickland]

On a related note, one of the dudes at Feathered Friends told me that the new version of the Trango S (the red one) is going to have a WPB liner, hopefully solving the waterproof issues.

 

So if you're going that route, you might want to wait for the new models. He also mentioned that the red fabric was going to be slightly different in appearance, like shinier or something.

[rhyang]

Trango S Evo ?

http://www.ynews.info/en/item.php?id=1445

no date on the article, guess we'll see

[Greg_W]

On a related note, one of the dudes at Feathered Friends told me that the new version of the Trango S (the red one) is going to have a WPB liner, hopefully solving the waterproof issues.

 

So if you're going that route, you might want to wait for the new models. He also mentioned that the red fabric was going to be slightly different in appearance, like shinier or something.

 

Will, are you saying that an ascent without the new Trangos would be unrecognized as an official "light-boot ascent"?

[cj001f]

On a related note, one of the dudes at Feathered Friends told me that the new version of the Trango S (the red one) is going to have a WPB liner, hopefully solving the waterproof issues.

That would make it exactly like the Garmont Tower.

[John Frieh]

On a related note, one of the dudes at Feathered Friends told me that the new version of the Trango S (the red one) is going to have a WPB liner, hopefully solving the waterproof issues.

That would make it exactly like the Garmont Tower.

 

Only heavier.

[Pandora]

On a related note, one of the dudes at Feathered Friends told me that the new version of the Trango S (the red one) is going to have a WPB liner, hopefully solving the waterproof issues.

That would make it exactly like the Garmont Tower.

 

Only heavier.

 

BUT it's supposed to be a shiny light blue color, which of course makes it worth the extra weight .

[cj001f]

Only heavier.

 

BUT it's supposed to be a shiny light blue color, which of course makes it worth the extra weight .

That means it's a boys boot

[brukb]

Had a real problem with frozen feet using Trango S's this year on Lib. Ridge. If the new versions are waterproof then they might work well, but I wouldn't use the current models again on a climb with so much glacier, snow and ice.

[iain]

wow I wouldn't want something like the garmont towers on lib ridge. Too cold in my opinion. If you get stuck up there I would think your toes are screwed!

[Lambone]

don't climb Raineir in the Trango S (red ones) unless it is like Septemebr and you are on solid blue ice the whole time. They are not waterproof for shit.

 

I climbed halfway up (winded off) Shasta in the Trango Extreme S and they were great.

 

For something a bit heavier and insulated but not plastic I like the old Technica Altitude Plus's (orange). Got mine cheap at Jim's shop.

[russ]

I've used the Trango S twice on Rainier - both during July. The 1st time my feet were damp and cold, but as long as I was moving they were fine. The 2nd time I used goretex socks over liner & wool layers. My feet didn't get wet, however I was still cold if I stood around too long. Based on those experiences I probably won't use them for spring climbs.

[chriss]

 

I also used the Trango S on Rainier, in late August though. Did have a couple feet of new snow from the previous storms. No problems, neither cold nor wet. I did put some waterproofing on mine.I had gotten a little wet in them on Shuksan. Nikwax Fabric and Leather, put on many coats, letting dry between each.

 

chris

[Nick]

I climbed the DC, in June, using the lighter Tecnica Bio ascends. These are classified as hiking boots but have a fairly stiff sole and are more waterproof than the light LaSportiva boots. They weigh 2 pounds each. I used them with strap on aluminum crampons and had cold feet all the way up (wiggling my toes as I climbed). Now I use Scarpa Alpha ice boots on mountains like Rainier. My size 8.5 boots only weigh about 5 ounces more than the tecnicas (and I don't even have the ultra light liners) and my feet are always warm. The scarpas are nimble and comfortable, totally unlike my old clunky plastics. I have had frostbite a couple of times over the years and try to avoid freezing my feet now. Light footwear is great, but you can get the alphas down close to Trango S weight if you get the ultra light heat-fit liners.

[Fuggedaboudit]

I think you should look at the LaSportiva K4S. They are the best think I ever bought. They felt fine on a 14 hour Athabasca climb this past September, and in 10 degree New England Ice climbs this past winter were warm enough. They are a single leather boot with a synthetic rubberized coating on the outer lower boot. So far, waterproof, but they are still single boots, so my main concern is always that you cant take out inner boots and dry them out in sleeping bag overnight. But on 40 degree French slopes they make Invernos feel like chewing glass. I'm sure the boots you are looking at are a bit lighter than the K4s, but unless you can aford a closet full of specialty boots, this one boot should cover anything in the Cascades.

[swaterfall]

I used the Trango S boots on a one day DC trip this past July. My feet were warm and dry, but the conditions were perfect. I would use them again, but now in stormy condidtions. The lightness factor is key.

[flatland]

The Kayland Multi-traction boots have an awesome fit, climb rock well, and are waterproof. These boots lock your heal well and have a little different fit from the much used Trango S. They were also rated the best all-round mountain boot in Climing mag. They are lighter than standard single leathers and much more nimble.