flatland

For those of you who have used the I-tent, how tall are you? I'm 5'10" so it will be fine for me, but I was wondering about some of the guys that I climb with who are over 6' tall.

The Kayland Multi-traction boots have an awesome fit, climb rock well, and are waterproof. These boots lock your heal well and have a little different fit from the much used Trango S. They were also rated the best all-round mountain boot in Climing mag. They are lighter than standard single leathers and much more nimble.

I'm in the market for some knew half ropes. I read about some guys using a bi color 120m half rope up in Alaska. On wandering pitches or rock pitches they used it doubled as 60 m doubles and then on straight ice pitches they would use it as a single 120m rope. This gave them the freedom to link pitches. This would also eliminate some snags when pulling the rappel rope. Has anyone had personal experience with a long 100-120 meter half rope? I found some 100 meter bicolor ropes, but not any 120 meter. I figure that it costs less than two separate doubles and I could just cut it with a hot knife into two ropes if it didn't work out. Let me know if you have used one. Thanks

Check out this jacket!!

The Koflachs are the best cold mountaineering plastic. They are much more comfortable in non-vertical terrain than the Asolo, Lowa or other plastics (only good on steep ice in weather too cold for leathers). Alphas are better in technical terrain (more technical than anything on Rainier). The La Sportiva Olympus Mons climb great and are warm. Anyone used the new montrail boot/crampon combo?

You need to ask yourself if the conditions will mandate wearing the shell from the car and most of the trip or will you be carrying it more than 50% of the time. If conditions are harsh enough that you need to wear your shell most of the time then articulation, pocket configuration, hood, ventilation and overall fit will be very important. If this is the case it is worth carrying a 20+ oz jacket such as the Arc Teryx Alpha SV, which has the best fit out there. If you will be carrying the jacket get a light anorak like the marmot precip or patagonia spectre both around 9 oz. If it's going to be dry the Arc Teryx Gamma MX Hoody and Cloudveil Icefloe hooded soft shells are great (the Gamma MX hood is especialy good). I like the added breathability even with cold wind.

The dana design kompressor is 10oz and 1000 cu. in. and works as a compression sack. Hip packs also work really well and free up your shoulders(I used a 500 cu. in. + bottle holder hip pack for serpintine arete). I've used my granite gear alpine lite for 4 day technical alpine trips with only 14lbs total including pack and food (not rope or rack). For going really fast and long set the countdown timer on your watch for fifteen minutes. Each time it goes off drink a predetermined amount (depending on conditions - i drink 4 oz usually) and every other time eat 100 calories (gel is best). This way six hours into your trip you are still going fast and your mind will still be sharp. You need to start taking care of yourself right from the car - don't save weight by not drinking enough!!!

The Arc Teryx Switch back pullover is awsome. I use it for summer alpine rock and winter ice. The new Tweave Durastretch is light and more abrasion,wind and water resistant than schoeller. The original marmot dri clime is still the best if you aren't going to abrade it too much.

At under three pounds the 3200 cu.in. Granite Gear Alpine Lite is a great alpine pack. It has multiple haul loops, shoulder trim straps that can attatch to the extended lid for the approach (don't buy a pack with out this feature), removable z-rest pad, tough and easy to use tool slots, quick drying/snow shedding material. I buy a new one each season so if you want mine it is in good shape. Retail $160 - selling for $75 + 5 for shipping.

SOLD

Jerry at marmot was there and said that it fell of on monday night but that there were still remnants falling of during the night. We will be there tommarrow and will get back with an update.

Drynamic and Dynamic are two different things. Drynamic is Dynamic with a special coating.

I have used all of the MSR stoves, all of the snow peak stoves, Optimus and all of the primus stoves on several trips each. While I think that the Pocket Rocket is the best canister stove for the money, my definite favorite is the Snow Peak Gigapower canister stoves (for short trips in moderate weather). It has the option of a wind screen which greatly improves efficiency and the flame is spread out over a greater area for cooking anything that might burn. It also is the most stylish (if style matters). For melting alot of water or a longer trip white gas becomes more efficient and reliable (as long as you know how to service your stove). The new MSR and Snow Peak white gas stoves are super light, and have adjustable flames. I think they are the way to go. MSR and Optimus stoves with Bell burners (MGK-II, Dragonfly, and Multi-fuel have the best performance in extremely adverse conditions)

I ice climbed in a pair of BD Alpine Pants 5 days a week for two years and then used them alot for alpine. I did notice piling and snagged threads, but I think that is was cosmetic mostly and never noticed impaired function. I sold them for $99 and got a new pair. I think that the material is the best available at this time, if you have the money. I have also used the Arc' Teryx Gamma LT Pullover and the BD Ice Glove (old nylon Ice Glove rotated better in leashes) extensively and noticed the same things. These are both Schoeller Dynamic fabric items. I have used items made with the Schoeller Extreme by Arc'Teryx and Cloudveil and noticed less snags, but equal pilling (not a problem). The Arc' Teryx items made with Powershield have never pilled nor snagged for me (but it is too warm for late spring/summer). I totally trust the fabric. If you have the money, buy it. Schoeller fabric is also much, much more resistant to tears from rock or crampons than other material.

During the last three years I've climbed extensively on most models of Grivel, BD, Charlet, Trango and Simond Tools and Crampons. Grivel has the best pick for basic steep ice, but it is more brittle in really cold temps. The Rambo II, while having no clearance, had the sweetest swing of all tools. I like the new wings, much better balance than the Machine, not quite as accurate as the Rambo. The 2Fs are one of the best all round crampons ever (when used for both mountain and waterfall) and don't ball up at all (thanks to the included effective anti-bot plates). For large feet they don't follow the outer curve of the boot well, causing tired ankles to roll outward. The front points on the Rambo/G14 crampon are the best because of their angle and width at the back end. The secondary points are pretty long (good for vertical ice, bad for mixed climbing). The 360 ice screws are difficult to rack and you need to get accustomed to puting continual stabilizing presure on them (requiring a little more concentration at first or when fatigued). The are nice in awkward placements and they are sharp. I trust their quality and recommend them to my friends, even though I am climbing on BD at the moment.

I wonder what impact it would have on U.S. shops if they were to have to price their stuff against foreign mail order? I totally believe in a free market, but, all economists know that a free market fails to respond to situations where there are hidden colateral costs. Polution is the classic example, where companies do not include polution as a cost until they are forced to by a governing body. In order to be competitive Exxon would not have cleaned up it's spill unless public pressure or law forced them to. The hidden cost for us is that Pro Mountain Sports, Wilderness Sports, Marmot and others, will not be able to support the lifestyle that their owners want, and they will close. I like shops, I loved working in a bad ass shop, but not enough to do it on a Euros yearly salery (even if France's official work week recently became 35 hours!). I would sadly close my shop up and order my stuff over the internet. At this point I feel that it is worth it too me to buy my stuff at the local shop, because I am actually purchasing the shop too. (People at shops need to realize this and give awsome service and make strong relationships with our customers). This goes for the brand names too. BD, Grivel NA, Petzl America, MSR, OR, 5.10, etc, etc. Would certainly not have worthwhile quality, waranty service, etc if they worked on small margins. If they go out of business we will all have to settle for internet service (with French people ha, ha).

The cloudveil gloves climb so sweet! Climb five days a week in them. It is like mixing the BD ice glove with the DB dry tool, only better than either. BD is definatly the glove king, but, cloudveil did it perfect this time.

"The stupidest thing I did on the trip was bring one black prophet and one piolet. The piolet bounced uselessly off of the bullet hard black ice. Thanks Will, I learned a lot and am really grateful you took a chance on climbing with me. " Are two technical tools standard, rather than one tool and a normal mountaineering axe (like the BD raven, positive angle pick)?

DPS, I now understand why you are so bitter and why you strike out at poor newbies who annoy you. I ran accross some old posts where tons of people where ripping on you and calling you names (I recall seeing "dumbass" a couple of times). I empathize with you for the trauma you've been through. It's common for abused kids to beat up on little kids or kick the dog . Good luck in your recovery.

Sorry, I just found the info I needed on some old posts. If you have any advice (even from you, DPS. you make me laugh) I'd be glad to have it.

Any good info for the approach or descent? Did you bivy on the mountain after the summit? Thanks

Please, I would love any beta for the East Ridge. Thanks for the pictures, it looks great.

whoops, I am doing the East Ridge, I accidentally put down the west. I am glad that it is a good route, thanks for the info.

Thanks for the real answer MG. This thread can end now.

Selected Climbs says that the approach gully to the West Ridge of Inspiration is loose. Has anyone done it? What was it like? Side views of the peak make it look terrible to bail from is that right?