Fairweather Posted August 16, 2002 Posted August 16, 2002 Took my son up Old Snowy last Saturday. The flowers were out! Quote
mountainguy01 Posted August 16, 2002 Posted August 16, 2002 Did Coleman-Deming. Cake walk, some pretty nice snow bridges and even had the excitement of watching a guy glissade with the crampons on and watch the leg break. Snow was solid until 10:00 and there is a highway up. Quote
Coondog Posted August 18, 2002 Posted August 18, 2002 Just back home, outta the shower & cracking cold bier #2 after being first group to summit Shuksan this morning... and enjoyed some delightful hail at the base of the summit pyramid on our way down... Â Then confirmed the rumors that my nickname is in fact a climbing term courtesy of the 'sport-climbing terms' post... huh, who knew. Â Sleeeepy time now. --coondog. Quote
Guest Posted August 18, 2002 Posted August 18, 2002 Don't forget to drink that bier IN the shower Coondog, that's the best way to savor an accomplishment. Â Forget to list my noteworthy accomplishment of the week: after several afternoon drinks of Bacardi and Powerade I convinced my female roommate to climb the Tooth with me. We hit the trail with a full buzz at 2:30 pm. She decided to hike in her panties and soon after we saw her boss Finished the climb and got home in time fer dinner Quote
Paul_detrick Posted August 18, 2002 Posted August 18, 2002 M F you should bring her on the relay. Quote
Guest Posted August 18, 2002 Posted August 18, 2002 Naw, using her as a distraction wouldn't even make up for her slow speed and the constant whining noise that comes from her mouth. Besides, she's an REI sport climbing instructor, not even cool enough to be a Cascadeclimber Quote
Thinker Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 Nutcracker on Saturday  T'was a little warm in the Valley, but a good breeze compensated nicely. Only one fast party ahead of us, 2 turtle teams behind us. Quote
iain Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 Three Fingered Jack, OR Â Did a very long lower down from above "the crawl" over the west face. Collected the following: two polar fleece jackets, a purple wool hat, a small backpack. The rock was abysmal. Had to be a second, if not first descent/ascent! Quote
Dru Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 judging by what you found, i would say at least 2, possibly 4 previous descents had been made unless you suggest they all fell as a group (while roped together...) Â [ 08-19-2002, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
iain Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 They probably would have worked just as well as webbing on that rock. There is also a spindrift of nalgene bottles that forms down on the west side, but we did not see it this time. Quote
Climzalot Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 This past week we made it up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Gimli and the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them. Â cgentzel@aai.cc Quote
iain Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: judging by what you found, i would say at least 2, possibly 4 previous descents had been made unless you suggest they all fell as a group (while roped together...) Damn your right, foiled again! We really wanted the first ascent of that magnificent line. This was all crap that people had let blow off the ridgeline. There is yet another nalgene teetering below the crawl if anyone wants it. We didn't have time to rerig on the other side. Quote
Dru Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: This past week we made it up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Gimli and the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them. Â cgentzel@aai.cc first time is funny... second time is silly... 3rd time is a spanking! Quote
iain Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. cgentzel@aai.cc But judging by your address don't you work for a guiding company? Quote
fleblebleb Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 This weekend, all over the couch. How was the weather up there? Quote
Greg_W Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobbyperu: ... saw 2 folks cruze nw corner on news. Which day? RR666 & I were on it Sat. Chatted with a guy on summit of SEWS. Quote
SEF Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 On Saturday, Liberty Bell / Overexposure, Concord / N Face, Lexington / N Face, NEWS / W Face, and SEWS / W Face. On NEWS, at the base of the 5.11 crack with the funky looking horn with a bunch of slings for a belay anchor, partner put an elbow through my glasses, sending 1 lens down the rock. Completed the climb, descended then reclimbed the first pitch to look for lens on the big ledge. We spent 2 unsuccessful hours looking. But I did find 1 stopper, 1 roll exposed film, 1 wire gate biner, 1 broken biner, and 1 roll tape. Bummer, but went on in semi blind condition. FYI, I thought the 5.9 variation on the SEWS / W Face was a sandbag. In looking at the register on Lexington, the last several parties indicated it was climbed as part of a traverse of the Liberty Bell group, apparently a fairly popular linkup. Â I spent Sunday getting new glasses. Quote
Greg_W Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 Steve- Nice meeting you on top of NEWS. Â Greg Quote
rr666 Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 That was probably us up there on the NW corner of NEWS. Greg_W and I hit it on Saturday. Great climb Heading up an obvious line. Almost surprised the first ascent didn't happen until the mid seventies, but then again the big dihedral pitch probably would have been tough to protect with gear back then. Â It shares the first pitch with the west face, and then scrambles through some easy trees to a small dihedral and face climbing to a nice ledge atop the third pitch. We were able to link the 2nd and 3rd. The 4th pitch was where the fun began. A wonderful lieback, undercling, short pitch to a nice stance. Then the long dihedral off-width. It wasn't too bad, once we brought out the Those two pitches were a bit tough, but all the moves were there. The sixth pitch looked a bit scary and loose to start, but was solid and enjoyable. From there it was easy on to the summit! Recommended Quote
fleblebleb Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 Is that the same Pat I climbed Cutthroat with after being stormed off the Carmigan? Quote
wayne Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 Ahh The Carmigan Traverse: 2 cars for every man , woman , and child. The Global Warming Shuttle trip that didnt happen!! Stebbi where did you take that picture of yourself that you use in your avatar? was it before your 5 epics on the Challenger travers?? I must have a trip report on It on my desk in the morning! I am still high from Bear Mt, Quote
DPS Posted August 19, 2002 Posted August 19, 2002 Colin climbed Inspiration Peak, NE Ridge on Mt Goode, N Buttress on Fury. And then on Sunday... Quote
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