Dru Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 i see on the web there (ukclimbing.com) that john gaskins has climbed a new 5.15a, britain's first. it is 6m long and has 2 bolts. basically a bolted boulder problem. how long till someone does a pad ascent? any bets? Quote
Bittertrad Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Why do so many people on this site rag on new hard sport/boulder ascents? Is it jealousy? It would be one thing to bag them as insignificant if you were a super burly alpine climber, but let's face it, none of the people who cop holier-than-thou attitudes on this website are super burly. They're just cranks. How lame. Quote
Greg_W Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Three pitches of 5.5 in a row is 5.15...I'm a badass. Quote
fenderfour Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 is it really a .15a before someone else climbs it to verify? Quote
Distel32 Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Sport climbing sucks. Fuck off. suck a fat one peter penis eater. 6 meters? the landing must be really bad. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 i see on the web there (ukclimbing.com) that john gaskins has climbed a new 5.15a, britain's first. it is 6m long and has 2 bolts. basically a bolted boulder problem. how long till someone does a pad ascent? any bets? As a boulder problem, that would equal an unprecedented V18. Given the length of the "route", it must be a rather burly affair. Quote
Distel32 Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 rriiggghhhttt..... anyway say a picture of it on ukclimbing and the landing doesn't look that bad..... Quote
thrutch Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Nothing like bringing a climb down to one's ability instead to achieve fame. Quote
RuMR Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Why do so many people on this site rag on new hard sport/boulder ascents? Is it jealousy? It would be one thing to bag them as insignificant if you were a super burly alpine climber, but let's face it, none of the people who cop holier-than-thou attitudes on this website are super burly. They're just cranks. How lame. schweet post! That's it in a nutshell... Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 rriiggghhhttt..... anyway say a picture of it on ukclimbing and the landing doesn't look that bad..... What? Look at a grade conversion scale, Cochise. 5.15a~=V18. If it's boulder problem-short, then it's probably boulder problem-hard. Stick that in your chalk pot, you moss-shoveling pad-monkey. Quote
username Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 5.15a~=V18 I don't think that's right. http://www.bouldering.com/bouldering_ratingsconversion_cha.htm In any case I thought sport routes usually get rated up a little just to factor in getting pumped, having to rest, and clip pro. Quote
Paco Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Why do so many people on this site rag on new hard sport/boulder ascents? Is it jealousy? It would be one thing to bag them as insignificant if you were a super burly alpine climber, but let's face it, none of the people who cop holier-than-thou attitudes on this website are super burly. They're just cranks. How lame. The reason is because most people on this site are alpine climbers at heart regardless of ability. I can surely appreciate someone doing some very hard technical climbing, but we're only talking about 30 ft of rock. If you want to truely stir the emotions of people on this board you need to post about a sick multi-day and/or mutli-pitch ascent. Search back through the posts about the Hubers on Zodiac or Dean Potter in Patagonia. People were giving them lots of props. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 5.15a~=V18 I don't think that's right. http://www.bouldering.com/bouldering_ratingsconversion_cha.htm In any case I thought sport routes usually get rated up a little just to factor in getting pumped, having to rest, and clip pro. Interesting. Guess it depends on whose grading scale you're using. Not that 5.15 or Vwhateverteen are terms that can actually be understood by those of us not spawned by gods. Quote
dberdinka Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 An inspring level of difficulty but on the inspiring line rating scale it appears to be about a 5.0 wouldn't you say? (Center route below) Quote
cracked Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Why do so many people on this site rag on new hard sport/boulder ascents? Is it jealousy? It would be one thing to bag them as insignificant if you were a super burly alpine climber, but let's face it, none of the people who cop holier-than-thou attitudes on this website are super burly. They're just cranks. How lame. The reason is because most people on this site are alpine climbers at heart regardless of ability. I can surely appreciate someone doing some very hard technical climbing, but we're only talking about 30 ft of rock. If you want to truely stir the emotions of people on this board you need to post about a sick multi-day and/or mutli-pitch ascent. Search back through the posts about the Hubers on Zodiac or Dean Potter in Patagonia. People were giving them lots of props. Well put. I admire the strength needed to crank out hard little routes, but it doesn't interest me much. I must admit, the 'ethical debates', backstabbing, chipping, and shit talking associated with rock climbing in particular are major turn-offs. Give me mountains any day. I guess I'm just not social. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Sport climbing sucks. Fuck off. suck a fat one peter penis eater. 6 meters? the landing must be really bad. dude, you are gonna get a fat lip talking to mr hirst that way. Quote
thrutch Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Now that everyone is on the angrymidget power plan....the world should watch out. Tho personally I could careless what some Cpt. Coolguy is up to...chagnes how I climb none. I will always be more interested in my friends 5.4 ascents. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Now that everyone is on the angrymidget power plan....the world should watch out. Tho personally I could careless what some Cpt. Coolguy is up to...chagnes how I climb none. I will always be more interested in my friends 5.4 ascents. hah! i aint no midget...just thought that luke was a little overboard on that comment. personally it is the 5.9+ +dirt routes that get me jazzed...although 5.4 is really good too. a 6meter problem is hardly worth bolting no matter how shitty the landing. what a typical british wanker. obviouosly he wasn't in the gritzone. Quote
Dru Posted June 23, 2004 Author Posted June 23, 2004 The Fly 5 meters long v13/14 or 14d Violent New Breed 6m long v14/15 or 15a V18? are you on drugs? Quote
Distel32 Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 I'm with dru, there are different grades for routes and boulders in french grades. 9a+= 5.15a FB 9A+ = something ridiculous. FB 8C = V15 FB8C ~ 9a+ or something like that. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 The Fly 5 meters long v13/14 or 14d Violent New Breed 6m long v14/15 or 15a V18? are you on drugs? Sheesh, just click on the grading scale link in DFA's post above. It's from 8a.nu. If you continue the V scale the way they have it, that's what 5.15a would clock in at. Don't go crucifyin' the Doctor like he's Michael Moore, now! Quote
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