SEWS Southwest Buttress Questions

[MCash]

Heading up to Washington Pass soon, and I had a couple questions. Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

1. How is the 5.9 variation after the 5.8 crack? It says it's a lieback in Beckey. Is it a flake or a crack? Good jamming? Clean?

 

2. Will the bearhug pitch take a #2 Bigbro? Is it parallel sided? Trying to avoid lugging a #5 friend up there.

 

3. Any good variations after the bearhug pitch that can spice up the 4th to low 5th class climbing up there?

[thrutch]

You do not need any gear bigger then a #4 friend on that route, the bearhug is not sustained, you can place a nice #1.5 friend at the base and then sling the top and thus you will not even need the #4 friend. The 5.8 crack is better then the 5.9 variation, yes it is a crack yes you layback it for the most part.

[skyclimb]

Bear hug can be done with a 3.5 BD, and the 5.8 crack is killer. Just watch-out for the inadvertent head jam near the top

We took a set of singles to 3.5

[Gary_Yngve]

I liked the 5.9 fingercrack variation.

 

 

I second what thrutch says about the bearhug.

[eric8]

I love how people always talk about bringing in a large cam in for this route and will last always make a I don't want to lug and #4 all the way in there statement as if you hiking in for day or something.

 

Fun route though go get it

[jja]

I love how people always talk about bringing in a large cam in for this route and will last always make a I don't want to lug and #4 all the way in there statement as if you hiking in for day or something.

 

dude, your parents so deserve a tuition refund

[chucK]

but it does look like he's trying to say something interesting!

 

He probably just didn't have time to actually proofread what he typed since he's studying very hard for finals.

[Dru]

that what isn't when randomiser through put your the words in get order?

[catbirdseat]

Bring the Camalot #4. The 5.9 crack variation is really nice and takes good gear. Enjoy the route, it's fun.

[eric8]

Its not only my parents money that is being wasted

 

Doesn't Beckey say to plug a number 4 friend in the bottom of the bear hug? It's 5.6 so take the big piece or don't if your considering doing the 5.9 part you be okay.

[chucK]

Could be I'm not understanding Eric8's muddled syntax ( ), but I read it as implying that the 5.9 var will bypass the bear-hug. It won't.

 

In fact, doesn't the 5.9 var just get you to the base of the "nervous 5.6" (#4 won't help you there!).

 

You could bypass the bear hug by doing the Boving Roofs pitch, I think .

[eric8]

I has impling that if you can do the 5.9 finger crack then I don't think you would have a probelm running out the bear hug and I'm also pretty sure that a #4 friend will work instead of a #5 friend.

[Dru]

I has impling

 

 

[bobbyperu]

great route, tho i'd pare the rack down to some hexes and stoppers and such- go springless its all "light and fast" and shit...but seriously if its at yer level gear to 3.5/ 4 should be plenty. i think a hibatchi, a cooler full of PBR's, some meat ta eat, and freaks to meet would do you better than a bunch a gadets...just get yer freak on, on the ledges- the rock climbings totally secure, all there, and alot of fun. no need to run up there all early in the morning either... take the lesurely approach, and climb it later in the day, it gets awesome afternoon sun and even gets better later, think sunsetting behind the cascades to the west, and silver star, and kangaroo ridge turning pink with the last rays of the day... it may make you just just my .02-bp

[Uncle_Tricky]

Also, for anything on the N or S spires this time of year, park at the hairpin and stairmaster up the nice soft snow in spire gully to the notch S. of SEWS and then descend a few hundred feet as necessary to the SW rib or whatever instead of trudging up the longer blue lake trail side.

 

If youre climbing the sw rib, stash your boots/pack, at the base of the S arete so they are right there waiting for you.

 

A little more than an hour up and a 15 minute ass slide or glissade back to the car. Route is snow free.

 

When spire gully melts out and theres no snow to walk up or slide down, then its easier to approach on the trail from the blue lake side.

 

And if you really need the big gear for the bearhug pitch, then bring the hibatchi as senor peru recommends.

 

Place the hibatchi in the wide crack, sling it, have your second clean it, and then roast some weenies on the massive flat granite terrace above.

 

If desperate, you can also place 6"-8" brats horizontally in the cracks of the bear hug pitch--though given their flexible properties you may want to clip them with load limiting screamers.

 

Just remember to bring some fire.

 

 

ps. if you want to spice up the climb, take the 5.10 finger crack to the base of the "nervous 5.6" pitch, then traverse left and do the boving double roofs pitch (5.10) which will deposit you at the top of the bear hug pitch. Fun x 2.

[jja]

for bearhug beta overkill, see attachment

[bobbyperu]

hey jja, didn't we meet on the bear-hug pitch...that reminds me, you can also just solo up on a weekend and use other climbers on route as back up pro...if ya slip just go for the flying bear-hug catch -bp

[MCash]

That's the bear hug? It looks about 8' high. I was invisioning this 40 to 50 foot long vertical twin offwidth cracks. Looks like a light rack is the way to go, pretty short pitches on the route. Thanks for the beta on the route and approach.

[jja]

As I recall BP, it was a really cold morning, and you were appropriately dressed in shorts, a t-shirt and mythos. Nearing the top of my heinous lead I hear "ahh dude, mind if I pass? - I'm gettin' a little cold here"

 

And by the way BP, where's the TR and pics from the super secret party / sendfest you and the crew had up in the hills of leavenworth a couple of weeks ago ?? I want to hear all the sordid details of drunken FA's

[Juan]

Cams to a #4 Camelot will suffice for the route. You might want two for the 5.8 crack at the start -- a matter of confidence. That pitch has some awkward spots for the aspiring 5.8 leader. If you are shaky, you will feel like you are going to pop out to the left.

 

The Bear Hug takes one #4 down low. It's an easy pitch.

 

I always recommend this route to people as the best easy/moderate up there. Rarely has more than one party on it.

 

Have fun. And use Fred's route description and topo. Nelson's sucks. Sorry Jim, but it's true for that route.

 

Sharp

[Matt]

I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is!

[gnibmilc]

great route, tho i'd pare the rack down to some hexes and stoppers and such- go springless its all "light and fast" and shit...but seriously if its at yer level gear to 3.5/ 4 should be plenty. i think a hibatchi, a cooler full of PBR's, some meat ta eat, and freaks to meet would do you better than a bunch a gadets...just get yer freak on, on the ledges- the rock climbings totally secure, all there, and alot of fun. no need to run up there all early in the morning either... take the lesurely approach, and climb it later in the day, it gets awesome afternoon sun and even gets better later, think sunsetting behind the cascades to the west, and silver star, and kangaroo ridge turning pink with the last rays of the day... it may make you just just my .02-bp

 

HEY ONE OF YOU EAST SIDERS SHOULD GO RUN UP THIS ROUTE AND GO GET THE NEWLY FIXED WILD COUNTRY FRIEND WHICH IS STUCK IN THE TRAVERSING SECTION OF THE ROUTE JUST BEFORE THE BELAY FOR THE NERVOUS 5.6 PITCH. IT'S LIKE NEW!!! STILL MOVES AROUND IN THE PLACEMENT. I WAS IN A HURRY TO GO NAP ON THE SUMMIT AND DON'T LIKE THAT STYLE OF CAM OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE MADE AN ATTEMPT TO GET IT....

[Al_Pine]

Bovine Roofs pitch

 

[dberdinka]

I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is!

 

I give this the -award for chester-beater-post of the month

[gnibmilc]

I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is!

 

I give this the -award for chester-beater-post of the month

 

oh yeah? i like following it so much after Matt, that I went back this weakend and didn't lead it and instead got scared on the 5.6+ friction pitch. friggin slab traverse moves... friggin "+" ratings... that pitch ought to be closed to climbing and roped off until they get the rating right.