MCash Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Heading up to Washington Pass soon, and I had a couple questions. Thanks for any help you can offer. 1. How is the 5.9 variation after the 5.8 crack? It says it's a lieback in Beckey. Is it a flake or a crack? Good jamming? Clean? 2. Will the bearhug pitch take a #2 Bigbro? Is it parallel sided? Trying to avoid lugging a #5 friend up there. 3. Any good variations after the bearhug pitch that can spice up the 4th to low 5th class climbing up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrutch Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 You do not need any gear bigger then a #4 friend on that route, the bearhug is not sustained, you can place a nice #1.5 friend at the base and then sling the top and thus you will not even need the #4 friend. The 5.8 crack is better then the 5.9 variation, yes it is a crack yes you layback it for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Bear hug can be done with a 3.5 BD, and the 5.8 crack is killer. Just watch-out for the inadvertent head jam near the top We took a set of singles to 3.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 I liked the 5.9 fingercrack variation. I second what thrutch says about the bearhug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 I love how people always talk about bringing in a large cam in for this route and will last always make a I don't want to lug and #4 all the way in there statement as if you hiking in for day or something. Fun route though go get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 I love how people always talk about bringing in a large cam in for this route and will last always make a I don't want to lug and #4 all the way in there statement as if you hiking in for day or something. dude, your parents so deserve a tuition refund Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 but it does look like he's trying to say something interesting! He probably just didn't have time to actually proofread what he typed since he's studying very hard for finals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 that what isn't when randomiser through put your the words in get order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Bring the Camalot #4. The 5.9 crack variation is really nice and takes good gear. Enjoy the route, it's fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Its not only my parents money that is being wasted Doesn't Beckey say to plug a number 4 friend in the bottom of the bear hug? It's 5.6 so take the big piece or don't if your considering doing the 5.9 part you be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Could be I'm not understanding Eric8's muddled syntax ( ), but I read it as implying that the 5.9 var will bypass the bear-hug. It won't. In fact, doesn't the 5.9 var just get you to the base of the "nervous 5.6" (#4 won't help you there!). You could bypass the bear hug by doing the Boving Roofs pitch, I think . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 I has impling that if you can do the 5.9 finger crack then I don't think you would have a probelm running out the bear hug and I'm also pretty sure that a #4 friend will work instead of a #5 friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 I has impling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 great route, tho i'd pare the rack down to some hexes and stoppers and such- go springless its all "light and fast" and shit...but seriously if its at yer level gear to 3.5/ 4 should be plenty. i think a hibatchi, a cooler full of PBR's, some meat ta eat, and freaks to meet would do you better than a bunch a gadets...just get yer freak on, on the ledges- the rock climbings totally secure, all there, and alot of fun. no need to run up there all early in the morning either... take the lesurely approach, and climb it later in the day, it gets awesome afternoon sun and even gets better later, think sunsetting behind the cascades to the west, and silver star, and kangaroo ridge turning pink with the last rays of the day... it may make you just just my .02-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 Also, for anything on the N or S spires this time of year, park at the hairpin and stairmaster up the nice soft snow in spire gully to the notch S. of SEWS and then descend a few hundred feet as necessary to the SW rib or whatever instead of trudging up the longer blue lake trail side. If youre climbing the sw rib, stash your boots/pack, at the base of the S arete so they are right there waiting for you. A little more than an hour up and a 15 minute ass slide or glissade back to the car. Route is snow free. When spire gully melts out and theres no snow to walk up or slide down, then its easier to approach on the trail from the blue lake side. And if you really need the big gear for the bearhug pitch, then bring the hibatchi as senor peru recommends. Place the hibatchi in the wide crack, sling it, have your second clean it, and then roast some weenies on the massive flat granite terrace above. If desperate, you can also place 6"-8" brats horizontally in the cracks of the bear hug pitch--though given their flexible properties you may want to clip them with load limiting screamers. Just remember to bring some fire. ps. if you want to spice up the climb, take the 5.10 finger crack to the base of the "nervous 5.6" pitch, then traverse left and do the boving double roofs pitch (5.10) which will deposit you at the top of the bear hug pitch. Fun x 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 for bearhug beta overkill, see attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 hey jja, didn't we meet on the bear-hug pitch...that reminds me, you can also just solo up on a weekend and use other climbers on route as back up pro...if ya slip just go for the flying bear-hug catch -bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted June 9, 2004 Author Share Posted June 9, 2004 That's the bear hug? It looks about 8' high. I was invisioning this 40 to 50 foot long vertical twin offwidth cracks. Looks like a light rack is the way to go, pretty short pitches on the route. Thanks for the beta on the route and approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 As I recall BP, it was a really cold morning, and you were appropriately dressed in shorts, a t-shirt and mythos. Nearing the top of my heinous lead I hear "ahh dude, mind if I pass? - I'm gettin' a little cold here" And by the way BP, where's the TR and pics from the super secret party / sendfest you and the crew had up in the hills of leavenworth a couple of weeks ago ?? I want to hear all the sordid details of drunken FA's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 Cams to a #4 Camelot will suffice for the route. You might want two for the 5.8 crack at the start -- a matter of confidence. That pitch has some awkward spots for the aspiring 5.8 leader. If you are shaky, you will feel like you are going to pop out to the left. The Bear Hug takes one #4 down low. It's an easy pitch. I always recommend this route to people as the best easy/moderate up there. Rarely has more than one party on it. Have fun. And use Fred's route description and topo. Nelson's sucks. Sorry Jim, but it's true for that route. Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 great route, tho i'd pare the rack down to some hexes and stoppers and such- go springless its all "light and fast" and shit...but seriously if its at yer level gear to 3.5/ 4 should be plenty. i think a hibatchi, a cooler full of PBR's, some meat ta eat, and freaks to meet would do you better than a bunch a gadets...just get yer freak on, on the ledges- the rock climbings totally secure, all there, and alot of fun. no need to run up there all early in the morning either... take the lesurely approach, and climb it later in the day, it gets awesome afternoon sun and even gets better later, think sunsetting behind the cascades to the west, and silver star, and kangaroo ridge turning pink with the last rays of the day... it may make you just just my .02-bp HEY ONE OF YOU EAST SIDERS SHOULD GO RUN UP THIS ROUTE AND GO GET THE NEWLY FIXED WILD COUNTRY FRIEND WHICH IS STUCK IN THE TRAVERSING SECTION OF THE ROUTE JUST BEFORE THE BELAY FOR THE NERVOUS 5.6 PITCH. IT'S LIKE NEW!!! STILL MOVES AROUND IN THE PLACEMENT. I WAS IN A HURRY TO GO NAP ON THE SUMMIT AND DON'T LIKE THAT STYLE OF CAM OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE MADE AN ATTEMPT TO GET IT.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 Bovine Roofs pitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is! I give this the -award for chester-beater-post of the month Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is! I give this the -award for chester-beater-post of the month oh yeah? i like following it so much after Matt, that I went back this weakend and didn't lead it and instead got scared on the 5.6+ friction pitch. friggin slab traverse moves... friggin "+" ratings... that pitch ought to be closed to climbing and roped off until they get the rating right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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