DMM Revolver 'biner

[snoboy]

So the Revolver supposedly weighs the same as a neutrino, but is spendy.

 

Has anyone actually seen one? How big are they?

 

I would like a couple for crevasse rescue kit if they are what they seem to be.

 

DMM description

[John Frieh]

If your primary requirement is weight, the Trango superfly wire gate is 30 oz. (2 weigh less than almost all lockers on the market!). If you don't mind D's for crevasse rescue (I know a lot of people prefer ovals); that's the way to go. If not, go with the doval: one ounce heavier than the neutrino but oval.

[Dru]

the Revolver is not out yet in North America, or even in Europe AFAIK. They've been shopping the prototype around European tradeshows for 2 years now!!! but kinda like WC and the ZeroCam, actually making the transition from prototype to production has been slow. Unlike BD or MSR, who seem to throw a proto out there and let half of them break in the first year

[Dru]

If your primary requirement is weight, the Trango superfly wire gate is 30 oz. (2 weigh less than almost all lockers on the market!). If you don't mind D's for crevasse rescue (I know a lot of people prefer ovals); that's the way to go. If not, go with the doval: one ounce heavier than the neutrino but oval.

 

but WTF none of those have a BUILT IN PULLEY IN THE BINER foo!

[John Frieh]

Some people (not me) don't use pulleys... foo.

[jja]

Seems like they're on sale here

$19.95 for a biner is spendy.

[Matt_Anderson]

"Designed for use at rope clipping end of a quickdraw, this extremely light and strong biner works mechanically in your favour."

 

When it comes to falling on less than bomber pro, I usually think of friction as my friend - it transfers the energy of the fall into heat and also onto other pieces. It seems like this biner would just transmit more energy to the piece holding the fall and increase the chances of failure. It also seems likely to transmit more force to the belayer.

 

I'm no physicist (and also no speller . . .), so maybe I'm way off. Anybody have a comment on this?

[lummox]

will it hold a coffee mug to a book bag?

[Dru]

Seems like they're on sale here

$19.95 for a biner is spendy.

 

shit man its not "just" a biner its a BINER WITH AN INTEGRAL PULLEY/ROLLY WHEEL THINGY!!!

 

also - just cause you can order them doesnt mean they are available yet like you can buy a book on Amazon right now that isn't even due to be published till November 2004

[schnitzem]

"Designed for use at rope clipping end of a quickdraw, this extremely light and strong biner works mechanically in your favour."

 

When it comes to falling on less than bomber pro, I usually think of friction as my friend - it transfers the energy of the fall into heat and also onto other pieces. It seems like this biner would just transmit more energy to the piece holding the fall and increase the chances of failure. It also seems likely to transmit more force to the belayer.

 

I'm no physicist (and also no speller . . .), so maybe I'm way off. Anybody have a comment on this?

 

The"mechanically in your favour" refers to its ability to reduce rope drag on a climb where you are z ing out your gear....which makes sense

 

+ think how much easier it will be to pull your self up to your last piece of pro after taking a whipper!

[chriss]

"Designed for use at rope clipping end of a quickdraw, this extremely light and strong biner works mechanically in your favour."

 

When it comes to falling on less than bomber pro, I usually think of friction as my friend - it transfers the energy of the fall into heat and also onto other pieces. It seems like this biner would just transmit more energy to the piece holding the fall and increase the chances of failure. It also seems likely to transmit more force to the belayer.

 

I'm no physicist (and also no speller . . .), so maybe I'm way off. Anybody have a comment on this?

 

 

 

In this case friction is not your friend. The friction between the rope and the biner reduces the ropes ability to stretch and absorb the force of the fall. The section of rope between the falling climber and the load bearing biner gets stressed more than the section of rope below the biner because of this friction. The "pulley" would allow the rope to run more smoothly as it is doubled over 180 degrees at the biner. More active rope to absorb the force equals less force on protection.

As far as the belayer is concerned, the force will increase. This proves that more rope is being used. But this force can be no greater than the force on the other end.

 

 

chriss

[EWolfe]

IS AID!

[thelawgoddess]

i saw one when the rep came by pms. it is "normal" biner-sized. pretty trippy looking.

[catbirdseat]

The trick was to design an axle that was strong enough to take 20kN, but would still rotate freely and not be too heavy. From the diagram, it appears that the bottom of the sheave is cradled by the bottom of the biner, so that if the axle should deform, the sheave is supported. Of course this would stop it from spinning freely, in which case it would be no worse than a conventional carabiner.

[Thinker]

my roommate came home with one of these the other day. It looks and feels cool.... The uses I see for it are for z-pulley (if you don't mind using a non-locking biner as a pulley) and for hauling pigs on walls.

 

it would prolly speed up the z-pulley set up.

[matt_m]

Cool - check it out

 

 

Description:

Name: Revolver

Description: Carabiner

Application: Rope end quick draw 'biner

Weight: 45 g

Material: 7075 T6/316 SS

Production Method: Hot Forge/CNC Machining

Location groove protects and locates 12 mm dyneema express sling (supplied with carabiner)

Hot forged 7075 T6 I beam back

Protective ribs for smooth transition from back to roller

Roller made of 7075 T6

High tensile 3 mm diameter 316 stainless steel rivet

Shrouded nose protects wire gate

Kinked wire gate encourages easier clipping

 

30% of the energy generated

throughout the world

is spent on

FRICTION

 

With this staggering fact in mind, DMM has abandoned convention, thrown away the rule book and approached the energy issue from a completely new angle knowing that weight is the enemy of the climber. The weight of a rope and the friction that occurs in use make it the crucial issue. DMM believes they have redefined the carabiner by introducing the concept of a rolling component in the safety chain.

 

The Revolver™ is a unique patented design by DMM. By using a revolving roller as opposed to a conventional static surface, the Revolver™ considerably reduces the load applied to the climber via rope mass and drag from protection. Climbers will have a new freedom to concentrate their limited energy on the complexities the rock may offer without the inhibiting weight factors assocciated with a conventional safety system.

 

However, not only is the Revolver™ a revolutionary climbing carabiner but has innovative applications for rescue, hauling and rigging. The Revolver™ meets the requirement for both carabiners EN 12275, UIAA 121 and pulleys EN 12278, UIAA 127 making it a lightweight alternative to a classic pulley/carabiner combination.

Reduces rope drag significantly

Large rolling rope radius 5.5 rad (11 mm diameter)

Roller action and size dramatically extends rope life

Extremely strong and light Hot Forged I beam construction

Innovative lightweight rescue, hauling and rigging appplications

Meets CE standard EN 12275 for carabiners as well as EN 12278 for pulleys

DMM patent pending design

Comes complete with 12 mm dyneema express sling

 

Designed for use at the rope clipping end of a quickdraw, this extremely light and strong biner works mechanically in your favor.

Edited June 11, 2004 by matt_m

[Billygoat]

If you are going to use this thing, the belayer better fuckin' anchor themselves! Try top roping with a pulley and catch a fall w/o being anchored. You'll see what I mean