[TR] Mt. hood- Leuthold's couloir/yocum retreat/random gully 4/9/2004

[skyclimb]

Climb: Mt. hood-Leuthold's couloir/yocum retreat/random gully

 

Date of Climb: 4/9/2004

 

Trip Report:

Three of us started from t-line at 11:00.

We came to an opening crevasse on the reid at the base of leuthold's couloir. There is a tongue to cross it.

Somehow we went to far left while starting leuthold. Possible the only party in existence to do this. We ended up doing the yocum retreat(12b in oregon high) to the top of yocum. From here we down climbed about 50 feet, and went up a random gully that was the highlight of the trip.

This random gully exited us left of leuthold's. We then traversed right over to leuthold's, and topped out. The random gully was approx. 60 degrees, and in excellent condition.

Minimal rockfall and icefall. My friend Greg took a nice shot to the face.

 

Gear Notes:

Axe, tool, crampons

 

Approach Notes:

reid is opening, shrund on hog is opening(right), minimal icefall

[iain]

Somehow we went to far left while starting leuthold. Possible the only party in existence to do this. We ended up doing the yocum retreat(12b in oregon high) to the top of yocum.

 

you were not the only group to make that mistake this weekend, and ANOTHER group did it last weekend. what the hell? are they giving away beer up there? folks if it gets over 45° you are NO LONGER on leuthold couloir.

[skyclimb]

Its nice to know others made the same mistake. That was a great mistake to make. It made things more interesting, and that exit gully was awesome

[Gadow]

As one of the other parties that did the "free beer variation" on Friday, I wanted to weigh in here, too.

 

My Partner and I starteed up Friday 4/9 at 3:30am, and saw the other party's registration in the lodge for Leuthold. We made pretty good time, and were in postion at the Reid just around first light. We followed the freeway across /around the berg, and up into the hourglass, where we noticed some fresh tracks amongst the river of snow and ice coming through the funnel. Near the crest (which we should have gone up and over to our right), a gully leading left, with a short stretch of rock in the center showed tracks, and we began up this way, but quickly backed off as it cliffed out into Yocum after a short distance. We downclimbed, and headed up to the next narrow gully on our right, but found it, too, leading to no-man's land up the ridge. Finally, we traversed (it WAS a little steeper than 45, BTW!), and regained the left side of the reid headwall and the Leuthold route. I was carrying my snowboard for a S. Side descent, and the downclimbing was unpleasant, to say the least. I suppose we ignored the route description at summitpost-http://www.summitpost.com/show/route_link.pl/route_id/516/object_id/3

but we did follow some tracks up there which seem to disappear after we regained the route. The attached picture shows my partner, just before heading off to the "Free Beer Variation".

My question is, did the folks that ended up rescued off of Yocum Saturday follow OUR tracks up there, or did they start on yocum proper? I presume the exit gulley off of Yocum, and the dead end we turned around at are one and the same, no? I'm just thankful we didn't get suckered into the ridge like the rest of the mob, or at the bottom of the Reid!

 

All in all, though - A great climb, a beautiful summit day, and a wonderful snowboard descent thru Old Chute, and the W. Crater Rim!

 

Hope the Yocum folks are doing OK.

Edited April 11, 2004 by Gadow

[cluck]

Actually, the two rescued climbers descended the exit gully that ended below the hourglass on LC. It's unclear exactly how they got to the top of the gully, but they did say they followed some tracks.

 

Fortunately, they were relatively healthy and in good spirits when we reached them.

[John Frieh]

Iain

I know it might seem like they would need to be giving away free beer to sucker some more kids into something stupid regardless of what happened last weekend; perhaps it might clear things up if you understand that skyclimb is a member of the Oregon State University Mountaineering Club (OMC). You know... the club that even though is geographically located further away from potentially serious routes that other clubs at larger universities (U. of Colorado, U. of Washington for example) is still able to boast the highest fatality and accident rate of any university.

 

How else would you explain such contradicting comments as:

 

"Minimal rockfall and icefall. My friend Greg took a nice shot to the face."

 

Though I could be wrong; I'm guessing this Greg skyclimb mentions is the same Greg of OMC fame (president/former president of the club) that almost died in an avalanche on Sandy last year. If at first you don't succeed...

 

And to have the audacity to boast "Possible the only party in existence to do this." Hmmm... Mt Hood was first climbed in 1857. To think that there are unclimbed lines still on Mt Hood more than a century later can only be a product of existing in the bubble of self righteousness that only the OMC could create. Skyclimb: I hate to rain on your parade, but there have been a lot of hard men and women that came before you and at this rate will outlive you that probably climbed that line (and many others on Hood) but were humble enough to not report some one pitch variation that isn't even worth climbing again anyways.

 

Congrats on pulling off a climb in the face of unexpected conditions. I hope Greg is well and was not seriously hurt. Most importantly I hope you seriously sit down and reconsider why and for who you climb for and how it is affecting the manner and style in which you climb. I'm sorry if my words seem harsh, but when individuals fail to heed the recent mistakes of others; a more direct approach is needed.

[skyclimb]

Iain

I know it might seem like they would need to be giving away free beer to sucker some more kids into something stupid regardless of what happened last weekend; perhaps it might clear things up if you understand that skyclimb is a member of the Oregon State University Mountaineering Club (OMC). You know... the club that even though is geographically located further away from potentially serious routes that other clubs at larger universities (U. of Colorado, U. of Washington for example) is still able to boast the highest fatality and accident rate of any university.

 

How else would you explain such contradicting comments as:

 

"Minimal rockfall and icefall. My friend Greg took a nice shot to the face."

 

Though I could be wrong; I'm guessing this Greg skyclimb mentions is the same Greg of OMC fame (president/former president of the club) that almost died in an avalanche on Sandy last year. If at first you don't succeed...

 

And to have the audacity to boast Hmmm... Mt Hood was first climbed in 1857. To think that there are unclimbed lines still on Mt Hood more than a century later can only be a product of existing in the bubble of self righteousness that only the OMC could create. Skyclimb: I hate to rain on your parade, but there have been a lot of hard men and women that came before you and at this rate will outlive you that probably climbed that line (and many others on Hood) but were humble enough to not report some one pitch variation that isn't even worth climbing again anyways.

 

Congrats on pulling off a climb in the face of unexpected conditions. I hope Greg is well and was not seriously hurt. Most importantly I hope you seriously sit down and reconsider why and for who you climb for and how it is affecting the manner and style in which you climb. I'm sorry if my words seem harsh, but when individuals fail to heed the recent mistakes of others; a more direct approach is needed.

 

First off NOLSe FUCK YOU!

I am not a registered member of the OSU mountain club. ERROR # 1, however I enjoy the company of many of the members very much, and they are good people, who posses much more integrity than other people who come to mind.

Secondly, when did I claim that we did a new variation? ERROR # 2

Thirdly, I see you most weeks at the Mountain Club meetings, and barbque, so why are you stabbing them in the back.

Fourth, before you go and chime in like a know it all , think about what you are writing to the world, and realize what it says about how you treat your friends when they are not around.

If you have a dispute please feel free to bring it up face to face anytime any place BITCH!

[ivan]

i think all this good weather is putting a weed up every oregonian's ass...when's it gonna get shitty again so no one will write tr's to be pissed about?

[MtnHigh]

Drew and I did the Free Beer variation last year. However, we did it . as planned, looking for something new on the mountain. The keg was empty on our ascent. Had to run all the way down to T-line to get our fill.

[John Frieh]

How do you see me at the OMC meetings when I live in Portland (and if you don't believe me ask Jane or Trish)?

How did you see me at the only BBQ OMC has put on this term (last Thursday) when I was on Rainer with girlclimber and Terry? Sounds like you need to lay off the

Hmmm... maybe next time you think you see me come over and introduce yourself... I think you will be idly surprised. And you insinuated a FA/new variation with this:

 

Possible the only party in existence to do this.

 

No one is calling you weak or stupid and I'm definitely not interested in resorting to childish name calling. I just hope you reconsider the possible repercussions of your choices in the mountains.

[willstrickland]

Sweet! 'Bout time for some battlecage death match action.

 

Did skyclimb say something about a FA? I thought he was insinuating that they'd made a silly mistake and were possibly the only ones silly enough to make that mistake.

 

Either way, you should sell some Pay-per-view of the next whatdafuckeva bbq you were talking about so you two can duel. Ice tools at dawn?

 

And point me to the free beer.

[texplorer]

Ice tools at dawn?

 

 

Classic Will

[Sabertooth]

Guess what Nolse, shit happens. Just because there was minimal icefall, doesn't mean that you won't get hit. Also, your insinuation that the president of skyclimb's climbing club should never climb Mount Hood again because he was caught in an avy on a different route a year ago is ludicrous. I know several people that have been caught in avys, they still climb, and have learned from their mistakes.

 

To question someone's motives for climbing based upon some bad luck is lame. So is putting down their club, and that makes you lame.

[iain]

Wow, remember it's all about having fun guys. However I would agree that the OSU mountaineering club has a pretty appalling safety record compared to other programs. As far as I can tell, there is no faculty oversight of that fairly inexperienced group. This may have been a contributor to some unnecessary and even tragic accidents. Often they seem to rely on luck alone to get out of trouble. I believe OSU should look to the U of O when it comes to running a well-oiled outdoor program. Someone's gonna get sued. Then again, they may have cleaned up their act. Considering OSU's administration, I doubt it.

[Winter]

How'd we get from skyclimb's TR to a critique of the OSU club's safety record?

 

Good job Nick. Glad you guys had a successful climb.

[MtnHigh]

This tread needs to get back to the Free Beer Variation

Great coinage Gadow.

Edited April 12, 2004 by MtnHigh

[John Frieh]

Skyclimb:

There is a lesson for me to learn here: don’t post after climbing 2 routes on Rainer in a weekend until I catch up on sleep and coffee intake. Obviously I misinterpreted your TR as others were kind enough to point out. In the future I should ask questions first before firing.

 

The point I failed to make was my support with Iain’s concern over parties getting off route on the Reid and shit happening. As I have met you once before (at the OMC gear swap) and know you generally climb with the OMC (I could have swore you told me you were a member), I knew this could be a potentially violate mix. Obviously everyone on this page has criteria for what they look for in a potential partner. When I transferred to OSU from U of O I checked out the OMC (as I was in need of some new partners) and was frankly appalled with the organization, or lack of. It seemed to me that they substituted training classes with drinking sessions at the grasslands. Furthermore, there wasn’t (still till this day) a faculty rep overseeing the whole operation. Obviously this is my opinion and some might disagree with it, but I think the OMC’s accident record speaks for itself. You are obviously allowed to decide with who and how you climb and it’s not my place to say otherwise.

 

I hope you understand what I was trying to say and that it wasn’t my intention to bag on you or your climb. I do stand by my comments regarding the OMC and hope others consider them before signing on to a trip with them. Lastly, I know its not me you think you are seeing at the meeting as I lived in PDX since spring break.

 

How is Greg? Did he need stitches or anything?

[skyclimb]

Skyclimb:

There is a lesson for me to learn here: don’t post after climbing 2 routes on Rainer in a weekend until I catch up on sleep and coffee intake. Obviously I misinterpreted your TR as others were kind enough to point out. In the future I should ask questions first before firing.

 

The point I failed to make was my support with Iain’s concern over parties getting off route on the Reid and shit happening. As I have met you once before (at the OMC gear swap) and know you generally climb with the OMC (I could have swore you told me you were a member), I knew this could be a potentially violate mix. Obviously everyone on this page has criteria for what they look for in a potential partner. When I transferred to OSU from U of O I checked out the OMC (as I was in need of some new partners) and was frankly appalled with the organization, or lack of. It seemed to me that they substituted training classes with drinking sessions at the grasslands. Furthermore, there wasn’t (still till this day) a faculty rep overseeing the whole operation. Obviously this is my opinion and some might disagree with it, but I think the OMC’s accident record speaks for itself. You are obviously allowed to decide with who and how you climb and it’s not my place to say otherwise.

 

I hope you understand what I was trying to say and that it wasn’t my intention to bag on you or your climb. I do stand by my comments regarding the OMC and hope others consider them before signing on to a trip with them. Lastly, I know its not me you think you are seeing at the meeting as I lived in PDX since spring break.

 

How is Greg? Did he need stitches or anything?

 

In fact, most of the people I climb with are on this board. This was the first alpine climb I have done with anyone from the OMC, and I was very impressed with my two partners confidence on steep snow and ice. You don't know shit, so shut your mouth. THATS THE LESSON HERE.

[Winter]

Does that mean like apology accepted dude?

[skyclimb]

I'm not about a thing, Shizza my nizzle

Its all good.

[billcoe]

Skyclimb, thanks for sharing, I appreciated it. Sounds like a sweet little variation.

 

But I could see a replay of the Joe Simpson thing should you and NOLS decide to do a climb together.

 

Regards:

 

Bill

[Harry_Pi]

Hello Skyclimb!

Would you like to write book regarding your epic, death-defying climb. Please contact me (Howard PI) at Villard publishing, a division of Random House, possibly a movie deal later.

These chestbeating trip reports make a fabulous story.

Thank you for allow me to post.

[Winter]

[gapertimmy]

 

wow, some action in the oregon forum! thanks for sharing the TR skyclimb. i think everyone needs to step away from the keyboard, go get sum, and come back and post nice mountina porn pics.

[skyclimb]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=4270&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1