[TR] Mt. Hood- Sandy Glacier Headwall 3/13/2004

[Sabertooth]

Attached is photo of rbw and shredder bailing down the couloir below the upper buttress of Yocum. They are single pixels, so I changed them to white, so you could see them. Damm, that looks like a steep downclimb. Glad you guys made it off ok. That was me dressed as the Michelin Man at the saddle chatting with you guys.

[ivan]

the ownership of the turd i saw most go to shred...his was the finer description...somehow i missed the bloody spaghetti mix...i don't think i woulda enjoyed that sign

[iain]

Iain..what was with all the PMR dudes up at the Saddle?

 

I think they were planning to go for a jaunt on the reid hw but didn't like the trundling going on from the wind and mosh pit up on the crater rim. Sounds like you had some fun times though. How was that gully? Steep? Easy? Ice? Wish I'd known you were out there, I would have brought that screw.

 

P.S. That descrip. of feces bouncing down the glacier is hilarious.

[sastrugi]

rbw1966, the two headlamps were ours on the way to the reid. I saw you on the retreat from the 1st Gendy. Very surreal seeing that so far off. My ephedra adled partner came down with a touch of HACE at 9,300' so we bailed! I got nailed by an ice block going about 30 mph on the way up to Ill. Saddle. Got a nice strawberry from it.

[iain]

very nice, looks as fun as anything on the west side (or as sky says, "da WESTside" with gangster gestures)

[ivan]

i thought that looked like about where you turned up...a bit premature, mayhap? a bit steeper definitely then on the ground i found, far to the left. i got nailed right around the same altitude as the highest gendy on yocum.

[rbw1966]

Or you could ascend the gully we used to retreat into Leutholds. Looks to go almost straight up the headwall. There is a relatively decent platform at the base of the yocum headwall that would a decent bivvy spot but I'd hate to be there if it warmed up. The snow on the headwall itself was nicely consolidated but very friable. A couple of wacks with my tool sent shit raining down. A reall ass-clencher. I couldn't have left a brown bomb if I wanted to.

[ivan]

fahq bivying anywhere near those walls w/o a kevlar bivi sack

[iain]

fahq bivying anywhere near those walls w/o a kevlar bivi sack

 

and with shredmaximus around, a hazmat suit and air raid siren

[skykilo]

PDX represent, y'all turn out the Hood Rat threads like it ain't no thang.

 

West Side Riders coming through, one day I gotta hit Leuthold with my locs on. Sounds like mad drama been popping off in the 'hood recently, I'll lay low till the heat subsides, then I'ma parlay my westside connections to slang some mad white lines off the top. I like to think all the P-town chickenheads are checking me out from their highrise cribs in Portland Plaza when I'm flossy flossing on the westide.

 

Thug for life.

 

[ivan]

dude, i think i saw that guy at the top of the palmer! big booty bitch in one hand and a phat chronic in the other.

 

damn, it can't be easy being a gangsta...

[skykilo]

In Shred's defense:

I was hangin''round the 'Hood Tuesd'y and Wedn'sd'y, and they were keepin' the b'room in the climber's cave at T'line lock'd, and there were no blue bags to be found, eitha'. So all these apostrophes represent droppin' brown bombs. Luckily, I was able to hold out until my return and use the facilities in the day lodge...

[cluck]

I may be wrong, but this must be the most discussed single turd in the history of the Web. Nice going guys.

[iain]

you can go check it out for yourself, I'm sure it's still there. please take GPS and report back position in wgs84.

[jaee]

I assume you'll only accept UTM

[ivan]

recently got this pic back showing me tiny shiner from the big lonely on the sandy...that's my daughter for comparision, i'm not actually jack-o (feel free, photoshop boys, to correct that)

Edited April 28, 2004 by ivan

[billcoe]

in that case, iain, i'd put you on the trail of a particularly rewarding brown steamer i unleashed last winter, about 300 feet uphill and towards illum gap from the palmer lift top. i had every green-hearted intention of making it down to t-line, but amidst the howling wind and blowing snow there was simply no reasoning w/ the devil...archealogical evidence likely remains...i suspect it was frozen solid and covered within 5 minutes of my paper-less deproach

 

 

I sure as hell wouldn't want some monster like that rolling down on me from up on high, damn.

 

You asked me if I Mt. climbed any more Ivan, I said very little after I had my kids. Re-reading your report confirms my previous judgement.

 

Thanks for sharing! Well spoken.

 

Bill

[ivan]

sorry, the pic ain't there anymore...apparantly the image was "offensive." i'm not certain if that's an insult to me or my daughter.

[cracked]

offensive

[rbw1966]

Someone found that pic offensive?

[ivan]

here's the text:

 

ivan,

 

I'm sorry, but the photo you submitted to cascadeclimbers.com, titled

"bruises are cool", has been deleted. Some reasons for photo deletions include:

 

-Images that were partially uploaded/incomplete

-Broken images

-Extremely poor quality/images (impossible to make out the image itself)

-Images that did not conform to our published site contribution and usage guidelines such as

offensive images

 

If you would like to submit another photo, please return to our photo upload form:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploadphoto.php

 

Thanks,

 

The cascadeclimbers.com Team

[rbw1966]

[ivan]

so what was so deeply dirty & disturbing?

a) the bruise?

b) my face?

c) my daughter?

 

timmy, can you tell me?

 

i'm feeling kinda like the chick from the twilight zone who had the failed surgery to make her fit into piggie world

[b-rock]

I think this falls under "Extremely poor quality/images (impossible to make out the image itself)". Next time just post a close up of the bruise. I mean, its all about the bruise, right?