Belay Devices?

[Dru]

I think the Trango Pyramid is better than the ATC , but I switched to Reverso 2 yrs ago and I use it for everything now.

[cracked]

This ranks right up there with the 'best knots' and 'clipping in at a belay' threads.

[tomtom]

This ranks right up there with the 'best knots' and 'clipping in at a belay' threads.

 

and most over-rated climb thread.

[lummox]

I dropped my ATC and need to replace it. I have only owned an ATC and a figure 8 and have no complaints with either. I was just wondering if there was anything out there more versatile than an ATC that I should consider. I'd be using it for cragging, alpine and ice. Any Suggestions?

dmm bug.

[EWolfe]

I've always liked the stitch plate because of is durability and longevity over the atc (which has the thinner body), but they don't lock off so well.

 

The Wild Country ADR has the advantages of both:

thick body of the plate, and tubed up side for ATC-like lockoff. Works great, even on the nines.

It's solid.

 

Never used the Reverso, but I am sure I will be converted when I do...

[Mtguide]

I've been very pleased with my BD ATC-XP.Excellent belay device,very smooth for rappelling,and handles skinny ropes for alpine and ice just great.I still have my old Sticht plates,Trango Tube,figure 8,and an HB Sherriff,too.The XP seems to do everything all the rest of these do,and the Sticht plate is the only thing that compares to it for rappelling.

 

[Peter_Puget]

I reread the intitial post and realized my advice sucked. The bug rules cragging but if you have a lot of stuff and doing raps it's not the device I would pick.

[rock-ice]

anybody use the SBG II?

Its made by omega pacific if you were wondering.

[billcoe]

Although I've heard good things about the Omega-Pacific device, I've never used it. I am in total agreement with Lummox, love the Bug.

 

Have tried almost every other common device out there.

[catbirdseat]

Of all the devices I've seen in this thread, this is the one I'd most like to give a try, other than the Reverso. It seems the most versatile, allowing you to vary the friction to account for diameter, weight of climbers etc.

[chirp]

Big ole' Pearabiner and a big phat munter.

[Squid]

The SBG is a piece of shit. Don't waste your time.

 

The stem on the SBG is too short, causing way too much friction on the rope.

 

However, I wouldn't sleep well if I didn't put in a plug for my favorite device,the Trango Jaws.

Just like the ATC, with the option of additional friction if you're using skinny ropes.

Edited February 25, 2004 by Squid

[Thinker]

I have a Trango Jaws if anyone wants one....I'll trade it for a beer.

 

It gives the jerkiest rappels and lowers I've ever seen. I end up turning it around and belaying off the 'non jaws' side.

 

It's heavier and bulkier than an ATC, so why bother?

 

(granted, I've not used it on anything smaller than a 10.2)

[Squid]

Cool.

Thinker, you get the beer of your choice at the next Pub Club.

 

Damn, this is why I love diversity of thought. It gets me schwag.

[Thinker]

It's yours, Squid.

 

I'm not currently drinking due to some meds I'm on, but we'll hook up soon.

[Squid]

Fine- I'll hook you up with the meds of your choice.

 

[sk]

I have a Trango Jaws if anyone wants one....I'll trade it for a beer.

 

It gives the jerkiest rappels and lowers I've ever seen. I end up turning it around and belaying off the 'non jaws' side.

 

It's heavier and bulkier than an ATC, so why bother?

 

(granted, I've not used it on anything smaller than a 10.2)

I had a friend whoi had ine of those and i tried it a few times and I have to agree, I thought I heard something about one modle beinf recalled or something don't listen to me my memory sucks

[Squid]

I thought I heard something about one modle beinf recalled or something don't listen to me my memory sucks

Yeah, when the modle beinf, you know it's time to get a new belay device!

 

I do hear a lot of people trash the Jaws, which baffles me. It's exactly the same as the ATC, unless you use the teeth, in which case it's similar to the ATC-XP.

Whatever.

If anyone else wants to unload those lousy Jaws, drop me a line; I use 'em for teaching newbie friends how to belay.

[Dru]

figure 8's and SBGs, with a rigid metal "keeper loop", can cross load the biner gate and break it under certain circumstances. 2 ppl have died in britain from failures of the belay when a fig-8 used in "sport" mode crossloaded the gate of their belay biner and broke the biner. not aware of any such failures with the SBG but given the rigid loop it seems possible to me.

[glacier]

Hip belay and a thick sweater, baybeee!

[slaphappy]

Why do so many people like the Reverso so much? It turns into a razor blade in six months and gives a shitty lead belay. In most situations, climbing in a party of three blows, so you don't need the two at a time deal often. I tried two in one year and decided they suck.

 

 

I use the HB Sheriff. No cable to jam it up and a smooth feed on lead belays. I add a second HMS when rapping with a pack (or terrified ) to increase friction.