Distel32 Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Friday February 20th The urge to get to smith has been building on me, two weeks of cancelled trips is dragging me down. Mike Layton and GirlClimber (Hannah) are rounded up and brought down for some mud wrestling. This would turn out to be Hannah's first ever climbing trip, a very special honor for Layton and I to be able to be her "firsts". The Players: Hannah Mike Layton and myself, neckbeard shot especially for Dru So I pick up Hannah in Tacoma, hit up PDX and grab the bum Layton on the way down. Upon seeing Hannah's shoes in photo above, Layton started shaking and had an epileptic seizure, he drank a PBR in the car and felt much better. Saturday February 21st Got up, headed over to the crags. Got Hannah to do her first ever climb! She cleaned Easy Reader (5.6) with no problem. After seeing her walk up a climb, I thought I would try to do the same......I think I picked the wrong climb Yeah got my ass whooped and almost fell on Layton's head, he would of liked my butt in his face though, I just know it.... Next we headed over to Blue Light Special, I talked it up to Layton and told him that he would be fine on it. Apparently my ape index is significantly larger and the crux deadpoint turned into an all points off dyno, Mike was outta control!!!!! Unfortunately Hannah has all the pics of these shanigans and will have to post up. Since Mike couldn't really make the move, he lowered down and renamed the climb: "Fucking Suck My Dick" We even called Mr. Watts and he had no objection to the name. Decided we better go do something casual, all three of us ran up cinnamon slab for a grand old time, then headed over to morning glory to end the day with nine gallon buckets. While getting ready to lead it, Layton made a comment about really needing some Hard-A. Three middle aged women heard this comment and immediately started to ridicule him, typical times, strangers clowning on Layton, almost like stealing candy from a baby.......Also some lady took like 20 pictures of Layton, took down his address, and told him repeatedly that he looks like John Cougar Mellencamp. I decided to head up after Mike and while I was closing in on the anchors Mike forgot who he was belaying. I don't mean he just forgot what my name was, he didn't know who was on the other end of the rope, what a bastard. We rolled back to the grasslands and it was damn cold. Probably about 35f with close to 25-30mph winds. Some dudes came up to the car and asked if we had any mustard (wtf?). But then all was better when he invited us to his teepee with a woodstove. We were skeptical, but not as worried as Hannah. She fell asleep at 7pm and slept all the way through until 8:20 the next morning. Layton and I strolled on over to the teepee and sure enough 4 people in there with a woodstove burning. Had to be at least 70f in there, ppeeerrrrfffeeccctt! Layton downed some PBR and a 24oz Old English 800, yummy kids! We went back to our tents and saw all of SkyClimb's friends from corvallis. Their little party consisted of 4 of them sitting around a fire, drinking cheap beer, and all talking on their cell phones. What is happening to the youth of america? Sunday February 22nd Get up, Layton is hungover. Head to the Sunspot for the killer breakfast deals. After eating our meals Hannah claims she ate everything on her plate, however Mike and I immediately notice the huge ball of butter she didn't touch. After a little pressure and some jokes, she forked the golf ball of butter and took it down, even chewed it for 15 seconds or so before swallowing, hard core for sure.... Driving to Smith Mike was telling us how each awful breakfast ingredient would give us energy in some special way, I retorted with: "Man, NOTHING is bacon powered!" Did some warmups at morning glory, some sorry gaper stole layton's shows and it took him 30mins to find the guy, who was leading cinnamon slab. Mike made him anchor in and immediately take off his shoes, took the dude 20mins, a sorry sight indeed. Headed over to Morning Glory and happened upon a rope team of two extremely attractive ladies, Layton blurts out, "man I would love to be that rope!" Layton busted out the PBR belay at 1pm Did another climb then headed out around 3pm. Both days were gorgeous weather, Layton and Hannah will have to post their thoughts and pictures as Hannah has like 30 quality shots. Hannah also though Layton was a sketchy character (which he is), but the trip turned her a little bit and she is now accepting of all types of people, even Mike and I. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 HA!...so what did you think of RudeBoys???? THat's a boulderer's route if ever there existed one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Great trip report. In fact, the best I've seen in a year. Good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 i thought a 'neckbeard' was one a them fringe mullets. wtf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Nice TR. I also got spanked by Blue Light on Saturday afternoon. Managed to thrutch up the climb next to it. Saw Tex, GF, MtnHigh and Smokeshow out by Staedner. Chopper rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 AWSOME TR.. SO BUMMED I MISSED IT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 yeah man but it is hard. In the last pic of the sequence I matched that flake up high twice, but couldn't move off of it. Got both hands on it and blew off. Definitely one I would like to work on though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 You need to surf out left to a mono...do a drop knee w/ your foot hooked behind the clipping jug at the first bolt (opposite of the direction that you are drop kneeing right now...gotta let go of that jug sometime )...from there it is a casual reach to the glued flake and you are set up to gaston that hold...from there, three tweaks on crimps lands you at the second bolt and big ass jugs...that is the first sequence...maybe v6? v5? That is the sequence most folks taller than i use. I personally grab the hold in just as you did in the second to the last photo and then surge straight into the gaston...you screw around w/ a match and you will never finish the route...saps too much energy for the toss over the roof... Did you get to the second bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 yeah thats what I originally tried but that glued flake is big, plus I felt like I wouldn't tear all my tendons trying to do the match. No didn't get to the second bolt, only spent about 5mins on the route, tried the start of the crux sequence like 5or6 times. Pretty hard though. Thanks for the beta, the other hard moves just look like big moves on fairly good holds, true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 ...the other hard moves just look like big moves on fairly good holds, true? does finger pump factor in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 wow; that makes smith kind of sound like fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 wow; that makes smith kind of sound like fun. SMITH IS FUN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 wow; that makes smith kind of sound like fun. False advertising; stay at Indian Creek or come up to Washington so we can climb in Squamish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 wow; that makes smith kind of sound like fun. False advertising; stay at Indian Creek or come up to Washington so we can climb in Squamish. why don't you just come up to squamish so we can climb in squamish? i'll be there by may ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 wow; that makes smith kind of sound like fun. False advertising; stay at Indian Creek or come up to Washington so we can climb in Squamish. why don't you just come up to squamish so we can climb in squamish? i'll be there by may ... Surely, I will, but you gotta pass through Washington to get there. And there's some decent climbing to be done here. See you in May. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 wow; that makes smith kind of sound like fun. False advertising; stay at Indian Creek or come up to Washington so we can climb in Squamish. why don't you just come up to squamish so we can climb in squamish? i'll be there by may ... Surely, I will, but you gotta pass through Washington to get there. And there's some decent climbing to be done here. See you in May. 'where? Tis no limestone and nekkid chicks on the beach in front of the crystal blue med 'round here the last time i looked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Surely, I will, but you gotta pass through Washington to get there. And there's some decent climbing to be done here. See you in May. i'll be driving fast. i'll be heading for the bc backcountry ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Shoot me a PM a few weeks prior and lets climb something cool ('Ultimate Everything'?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Maybe there's help for boulderer yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Maybe there's help for boulderer yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Good times! Although, I had to enjoy the cracks by myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 24, 2004 Author Share Posted February 24, 2004 oh yeah, Mike did both pitches of pack animals direct in one long one, with no hangs, what a bitchin' dude! Girlclimber is currently posting more pics in the sport climbing gallery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
girlclimber Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 yay, what a fun first trip! thanks to Distel and Mikey for letting me tag along, i enjoyed every minute. Luke showing how it's done Mike clinging "Fucking Suck My Dick" these guys are awesome, climb with them if you get the chance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Shit! and Im gonna fly accross the country to climb with this joker at J-Tree?!!?!?!? NOW Im scared! Ahhhh...Bring it on!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.