Dru Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 What are your opinions of the hardest climb at each grade that isn't actually undergraded. IE what do you think the "upper limit" of each grade is. The climb that, any thing harder would be the next number higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 5.9 Godzilla 5.8 Gendarme on NRS 5.7 first pitch of Outer Space crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 that nasty black v3 in the corner at prg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 FWIW, I led all of the 10b sport climbs I could find on the front side of Smith one day and thought Wedding Day was the most difficult of the bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 27, 2004 Author Share Posted January 27, 2004 for a long time "Homage to the Spider" on Mt Louis was known as the hardest 5.8 in the Rockies if not the world. But it's now rated 10a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 for a long time "Homage to the Spider" on Mt Louis was known as the hardest 5.8 in the Rockies if not the world. But it's now rated 10a They should have left it 5.8 and just downgraded everything else in the world accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 27, 2004 Author Share Posted January 27, 2004 Ya there was a big discussion in Squamish about the Split Pillar. McLane said he thought he should put it up to 10c in the next edition of the guidebook. A quick poll suggested most climbers present actually though it should be rated 5.9 so those damn Washington climbers would quit moaning about soft Squamish grades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 5.8 Gendarme on NRS Â Where are the two Gendarme pitches on Stuart listed as 5.8? Everything I've read says they are 5.9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 The grading must be for when it's wet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 Not Cascades, but the crux mantle on the DNB on Middle Cathedral is the hardest 10b I've ever been on. Also, pitch 11 isn't 5.6 (steep, flared, polished runout chimney)by modern standards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 .11a - Pure Palm (Once dubbed "pretty hard for a .12a" by a PDX hardperson who didn't realize it was .11a). Overnight Sensation is pretty taxing, too. .10a - BBQ (even though it's really .12a ) .12c - Go Dog Go (would be hard for .12d, too) or maybe Last Waltz (Ouch!) .13a - Oxygen (can't we just call it .13b?) .12d - Taco Chips (although rumor has it Split Image is one sick little number -- even the French think so) .12b - Watts Tots - has this route actually ever been sent? .12a - Slit Your Wrist - OK, there's no way that thing's .12a. Yowza. .11b - Vomit Launch or Shake 'n' Flake (Maybe the latter just sucks?) Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 first pitch of gendarme on stuart could be .8 but the second is definitely .9 in my book little wing (beacon rock) .8 classic crack (broughton's) .9 developing forearms (tieton) .9 orange sunshine (tieton) .10a license to bolt (smith) .11b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Orange Sunshine's 10b in Nelson, seems right on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 heh, well that explains that I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 license to bolt (smith) .11b Yeah, but it's sooooooooooo cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2004 Author Share Posted February 6, 2004 orifice fish is pretty burly and sustained for 5.9 i heard clean corner is real solid 5.8, i wanna check it out with some big-bros and stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 I know you guys don't care about boulder problems, but I'll list a few anyway. Â Titanic (Squam) First time I ever had to project V3 Â It's Aboot Time eh? (squam) hardest v6/8 around. Â Darth Maul (11worth) probably v4 without the traverse into it. Â Hardest route ever: That stupid 10a rattly fingers at the lower gorge that I swear took me 45mins to get up. I could hear skyclimb, ehmmic, paco, wirly, and misterE just laughing it up while instead of jamming I slapped up the blank sides of the column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 .11a - Pure Palm (Once dubbed "pretty hard for a .12a" by a PDX hardperson who didn't realize it was .11a). Overnight Sensation is pretty taxing, too. .10a - BBQ (even though it's really .12a ) .12c - Go Dog Go (would be hard for .12d, too) or maybe Last Waltz (Ouch!) .13a - Oxygen (can't we just call it .13b?) .12d - Taco Chips (although rumor has it Split Image is one sick little number -- even the French think so) .12b - Watts Tots - has this route actually ever been sent? .12a - Slit Your Wrist - OK, there's no way that thing's .12a. Yowza. .11b - Vomit Launch or Shake 'n' Flake (Maybe the latter just sucks?)   Ok...Mr. Authority on Smith...  Slit your wrists is actually .13b and THE BLADE is a nasty .12a...  Oxygen has always been .13a/b or b...average it w/ Times up at .12d and they check in at 13a  TacoChipz is nasty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Nasty 12a? Well maybe if you don' stick clip the first bolt and slip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 HA! That's how i did it...didn't know anything about it, figured it couldn't be that bad and totally wobbled through it... Â My belayer was sketching REAL hard...but at least he was clipped to the skeleton surfer anchor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 R - If those first moves were only 4th class I woulda still stick clipped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 what can i say? I'm stupid now and i was really really stupid when i was 21... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 I'd like to think of it as physical courage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 I can't believe you had trouble on Titanic. We must have way different styles! I didn't climb anything harder that V4 and did Titanic in maybe 3 trys. I was pissed about not flashing. Funny thing is the Drtopo.com guide shows it at V2. Bouldering is all about style is what I'm starting to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted February 7, 2004 Share Posted February 7, 2004 5.9 Godzilla 5.8 Gendarme on NRS 5.7 first pitch of Outer Space crack OS crack Dude you mised the move. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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