Distel32 Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 In response to the good doctors thread, this is where you list the best routes or problems you've DONE. Did it have the coolest move ever? Was it a year long project? Is the only reason you like it because you onsighted it? Fav problems: Joe's valley: Moby Dick, Pocket Rocket, Warm me Up Scotty Squampton: Anubis, Arrow Trav., Viper, Squamish Lie-Back Bishop: Some V1 at the buttermilks (sort of high), and a little V2 at the happies that had really cool holds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 outer space. soooo nice. short approach, killer crack, a little spice... and there are other top-quality routes you can hit up after you are done with the dirt glissade! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Oregon Jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Freaky Stylee at the NRG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Fear and Loathing at Red Rocks - so steep, so fun, so many buckets! Pure jug-hauling enjoyment right there. Chain Reaction - does this one need to be explained? No. Kill the Hate - The 2nd coolest route at Smith, and DFA's first .13a (aww, sentimental value!) Tons of killer moves, though, and stellar position, not to mention it's all natural, too! How 'bout Outer Space for trad things. Too much good climbing with great position on killer rock with bomber gear, oh yeah! Boulder-wise, Scary Monsters at Joe's Valley stands out. Gotta love those full-value topouts! Ooh, and Frosted Flakes was fuggin' killer, too. Wicked cool slash/crack features, and another highish topout. There's probably more, but who can remember? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 EB GB's and Fantastic Voyage at Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 DFA...for the aggro gulley nomination what about good ol' AggroMonkey? Hard to beat that one for fun... Full Heinous has it way over chain for a dihedrals route nomination... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 My favorite rock climbing experience so far has been Snake Dike on Half Dome. The climbing was techinically easy, but topping out on Half-Dome was so cool. The 15 miles of hiking required to do the climb was not so sweet, though. I love bouldering and am most familiar with Leavenworth. I like just going to an area like the Star Wars boulders and doing a bunch of problems and making a day of it. I think my favorite one there is that V2 slab with the crappy landing. I remember looking back at the briar patch landing and my spotter staring off into space probably day dreaming of what he was planning on eating for dinner that night. I knew my only option was to send on-sight and I did! What up Distel?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted November 5, 2003 Author Share Posted November 5, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Frosted Flakes was fuggin' killer, too. Wicked cool slash/crack features, and another highish topout. There's probably more, but who can remember? Yeah I did that thing! super fun moves! that top out is a little up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 In my book, Outer Space is overrated. The last 2 1/2 pitches are great but the fist two are garbage, the crux pitch is in my view only OK, and that next one is certainly nothing to write home about. Overall it is a good though not great climb. I'd give Midway, Dreamer, DavisHolland/Lovin Arms all higher ratings than the "megaclassic" Outer Space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 mattp said: In my book, Outer Space is overrated. The last 2 1/2 pitches are great but the fist two are garbage, the crux pitch is in my view only OK, and that next one is certainly nothing to write home about. Overall it is a good though not great climb. I'd give Midway, Dreamer, DavisHolland/Lovin Arms all higher ratings than the "megaclassic" Outer Space. the first pitch is the crux pitch in my book. and its got the traverse, dihedral and two pitches of killer crack with a chickenhead top out. lil' of everything. but yeah... the first 150 feet or so is crap, but also soloable at 5.5 if that? there is me and dan in the rain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 RuMR said: DFA...for the aggro gulley nomination what about good ol' AggroMonkey? Hard to beat that one for fun... Full Heinous has it way over chain for a dihedrals route nomination... Ain't never been on the Aggro Monkey, so it's hard to say. And Full Heinous? You can keep your 60-foot, eat-a-Clif-Bar-and-drink-a-quart-of-water-in-the-air whippers, hoss. Not to mention fuck you, nothing beats Chain Reaction. It is the coolest rock climb on the damn planet, ya hear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 (edited) Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Not to mention fuck you, nothing beats Chain Reaction. It is the coolest rock climb on the damn planet, ya hear? wank. Edited November 5, 2003 by specialed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: RuMR said: DFA...for the aggro gulley nomination what about good ol' AggroMonkey? Hard to beat that one for fun... Full Heinous has it way over chain for a dihedrals route nomination... Ain't never been on the Aggro Monkey, so it's hard to say. And Full Heinous? You can keep your 60-foot, eat-a-Clif-Bar-and-drink-a-quart-of-water-in-the-air whippers, hoss. Not to mention fuck you, nothing beats Chain Reaction. It is the coolest rock climb on the damn planet, ya hear? ummm...chain reaction isn't a route!!?!?! its a v4 or v5 w/ a 10ft 5.8 approach! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 specialed said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: RuMR said: Not to mention fuck you, nothing beats Chain Reaction. It is the coolest rock climb on the damn planet, ya hear? wank. i herd it was a chipped 5.10 overbolted chossfest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 and if you really must nominate an arete, spank is by far better than chain...And the backbone looks stunning, but i don't know anythin' about it climbing-wise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 best boulder problem - unnamed "P6" (like V2) in Queen Creek. pocket dynos! best alpine route (easy rock) - still holding in at W butt of Old Settler S peak OR Brewer Buttress on castle best alpine route (hard rock) - Proof is in the Pudding on Ibex. super clean and sustained for the SWBC alpine. best cragging type rock route - Rainbow Buttress red rox or Drag the Magic puffin, Chek Canyon best snow and ice alpine route - Mt Cook New Zealand or Paymaster best waterfall ice route - Gibraltar Wall i think thats it. no aid routes, they all suck. My opinions are not fixed and may change tomorrow or next week. On some of these the quality ofthe climb may have been enhanced by other factors another party might not encounter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Gib wall is defenitly not the best waterfall ice route. Not that there actually is a "best" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Dru said: best snow and ice alpine route - Mt Cook New Zealand or Paymaster Mt. Cook IS cool. What route did you do? This one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 mattp said: In my book, Outer Space is overrated. The last 2 1/2 pitches are great but the fist two are garbage, The RPM start replaces two boring pitches with one easy boring one and one outstanding one. Though it's not an original thing to say, I really enjoyed the complete N Ridge of Stuart. Matt may bag on the lower part ("blows goats" or something like that ) but I thought it really added to the experience. Long expanses of continually clean and perfect granite. Some harder most of it easier. Climbing the feature from the bottom to the top also holds some aethetic appeal. The three short Gendarme pitches would be multi-star multi-pitch at a crag on the ground. Sometimes there's a good reason that things get named "Classic". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Al_Pine said: The three short Gendarme pitches would be multi-star multi-pitch at a crag on the ground. What's the third pitch? I only found two hard ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 The LFC, the off-width to the "pod", then the step across over the top of the pod and up the easy face crack to the top of the feature. That's what I'm calling the three pitches. Didn't say any of 'em were hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 Yeah, "blows goats" is what I say. Well not really. Some of the climbing on that route is really quite steller but, as with Outer Space, I'd give it an overall rating of "good" but not "fantastic." I say this because there is a lot of scrambling and monkeying around that is NOT classic, the summit is only moderately cool, and the approach and descent are definitely NOT classic. For clean, moderate granite in an alpine setting, go to the Bugaboos. I'd say the standard routes on Snowpatch and Pidgeon Spire far surpass the N. Ridge of Stuart in terms of overall quality (though they are much smaller climbs) and for for a bigger route that is roughly comparable to the full North Ridge of Stuart, the Beckey Chouinard on S. Howser was way cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 I have to say McTech Arete on Crescent Spire in the Bugs. The 6 pitches are rated: 5.9, 5.10a, 5.5, 5.8, 5.7, 5.6. Long clean cracks. For example, the 5.8 pitch goes through two small roofs, with sustained hand jamming for 50 feet in between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 Chain Reaction is way overrated and so is the full Heinous. The best climb at Smith by far is 10 gallon buckets. You just can't beat the positioning looking down on a sea of climbers to your right and the positive holds worn slick by gobs of mazama classes and fat first-timers in tennis shoes. I would have to say my true fav is the steck-salathe down in Yosemite. Every pitch is full of wholesome wide cracks. Alpine I would have to say my fav is the south face of Prussik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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