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The Wrong Stuff


EWolfe

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"Yeah, so there's a deathblock mantle on that next pitch Be careful out there?" frown.gif

 

 

"Here's all of the #00 rp's I could find. Be sure and nest 'em up real good, cuz that's your last gear for a while. You'll cruise it, though." mad.gif

 

 

"Don't mind that band of loose rock, it's only for 15-20 feet." shocked.gif

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bremerton_john said:

Szyjakowski said:

bremerton_john said:

"Did he remember to tie a knot in the ends of those ropes.." hellno3d.gif

i never tie knots in the rope ends....increases the odds of gettin them stuck.

 

I agree there are times not to tie the knots: relatively short raps and some raps on mutli-pitch. But I've read too many account of experienced climbers "free-solo rappelling" after the ends of the ropes whipped through their device.

 

 

A tragically memorable example of this was the death of a brilliant young climber,Jim Madsen,who rappelled off the end of his rope from the top of the Nose on El Cap during a YOSAR rescue in the early 70's.Hits you where you live when it's someone you know.Unless the ends of the rope hit the ground,(or a sizeable ledge)there's ALWAYS a stopper knot in the end of my rappell rope.I also usually use an autoblock or similar backup on the rappell.Very comforting in bad visibility,darkness,etc.And even if you do get the rope hung up,at least you're still ON the rope and you get another chance to figure it out from there. wave.gif

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The following are authentic quotes from NW climbers:

 

"Come on up. You've got the best damn belay in the Cascades. Just don't fall."

 

"God she's hot, and I think she wants me. I'll pay for your bus ticket back to Seattle, but foget the Tietons. I'm going to Colorado to meet her."

 

"5.10 chimney? My lead? No problem. I did a 10b at the gym just last week."

 

"Ooooooops. You're not going to believe this." -from a Tacoma climber named Jon who, one night in my tent on the Emmons Glacier, crapped on my pad while trying to land one in the blue bag.

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You're approaching Outerspace on a Tuesday morning, and you think you've got it to yourself, when suddenly you hear some female voice yelling, "Tension!"

 

That's when you look up to see a party of three Mounties just starting the crux pitch and the female trip leader is already aiding the first 10 feet getting off of Two-Tree Ledge.

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schlangeschmecker said:

You're approaching Outerspace on a Tuesday morning, and you think you've got it to yourself, when suddenly you hear some female voice yelling, "Tension!"

 

That's when you look up to see a party of three Mounties just starting the crux pitch and the female trip leader is already aiding the first 10 feet getting off of Two-Tree Ledge.

...and you turn to your partner and say, "Dude, would you settle for Orbit?"
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