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The Wrong Stuff


EWolfe

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Szyjakowski said:

bremerton_john said:

"Did he remember to tie a knot in the ends of those ropes.." hellno3d.gif

i never tie knots in the rope ends....increases the odds of gettin them stuck.

 

I agree there are times not to tie the knots: relatively short raps and some raps on mutli-pitch. But I've read too many account of experienced climbers "free-solo rappelling" after the ends of the ropes whipped through their device.

 

 

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That's a toughie. I've been in plenty o' situations where the knots got stuck. I'd hate to rap off the end of my rope though, so it's a tough call sometimes. Last couple years, I've been backing my device up with an autoblock.

Wouldn't necessarily help in an end of the line scenario, but it definitely adds security.

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For me, I'll more often than not take the risk of getting the ropes stuck, particularly since I don't make a habit of using a prusik or similar backup. You can usually rap down to the ends, free the knots and climb back up to the rap ledge if you have to.

 

Back on topic:

 

"You don't mind if my girlfriend belays you, do you? I want her to learn how."

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