mattp Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 "We're not lost" (zero visibility, raining sideways, high on some volcano). Quote
cracked Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 mattp said: "We're not lost" (zero visibility, raining sideways, high on some volcano). "let's just keep going, I think it might let up." "No, we don't need to rope up. There aren't crevasses on this glaAAAAAHHHHHH!" "Your lead, looks like a cruise." "Just dyno" Quote
EWolfe Posted November 1, 2003 Author Posted November 1, 2003 "Yeah, so there's a deathblock mantle on that next pitch Be careful out there?" Â Â "Here's all of the #00 rp's I could find. Be sure and nest 'em up real good, cuz that's your last gear for a while. You'll cruise it, though." Â Â "Don't mind that band of loose rock, it's only for 15-20 feet." Quote
EWolfe Posted November 1, 2003 Author Posted November 1, 2003 Voice from directly above you. About 100 feet: Â Â "ROOOOCCCKKKK!!!!! " Quote
Mtguide Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 bremerton_john said: Szyjakowski said: bremerton_john said: "Did he remember to tie a knot in the ends of those ropes.." i never tie knots in the rope ends....increases the odds of gettin them stuck. Â I agree there are times not to tie the knots: relatively short raps and some raps on mutli-pitch. But I've read too many account of experienced climbers "free-solo rappelling" after the ends of the ropes whipped through their device. Â Â A tragically memorable example of this was the death of a brilliant young climber,Jim Madsen,who rappelled off the end of his rope from the top of the Nose on El Cap during a YOSAR rescue in the early 70's.Hits you where you live when it's someone you know.Unless the ends of the rope hit the ground,(or a sizeable ledge)there's ALWAYS a stopper knot in the end of my rappell rope.I also usually use an autoblock or similar backup on the rappell.Very comforting in bad visibility,darkness,etc.And even if you do get the rope hung up,at least you're still ON the rope and you get another chance to figure it out from there. Quote
eric8 Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 "lets use your rope and my rack" Â Belayer after following a pitch you lead "Man that nut/cam/rp was really shitty" Like you didn't know that while making the crux moves 10 ft above it. Quote
layton Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 "let's solo this first section and then rope up" -always a joy Quote
layton Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 "i'm moving to portland for the next four years" Â Necro, you've GOT to have some timeless sayings i've blabbered frantically on our lil' happy time climbs. Quote
EWolfe Posted November 1, 2003 Author Posted November 1, 2003 Getting ready to lead, and your belayer sez: Â "Ya know, I really should get a new rope one of these years. This one is pretty trashed." Â Quote
Norsky Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 This was witnessed by yours truly as the leader neared the chains: Leader: "Watch me!" Belay: "Off belay!" Quote
Dru Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 when you are seconding and it gets cruxy it always sucks to hear your belayer, from up above, say "hey, don't fall off cause this belay really sucks" Quote
Bug Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 Just as you are approaching the crux, from above. " pppppppppppppppppppppppppppppphhhh uh uh hack HACK HACK HACK COUGH COUGH COUGH HACK HACK. Quote
layton Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 at a tiny ledge, "I NEED to crap, turn your back" Quote
pope Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 The following are authentic quotes from NW climbers: Â "Come on up. You've got the best damn belay in the Cascades. Just don't fall." Â "God she's hot, and I think she wants me. I'll pay for your bus ticket back to Seattle, but foget the Tietons. I'm going to Colorado to meet her." Â "5.10 chimney? My lead? No problem. I did a 10b at the gym just last week." Â "Ooooooops. You're not going to believe this." -from a Tacoma climber named Jon who, one night in my tent on the Emmons Glacier, crapped on my pad while trying to land one in the blue bag. Quote
Beck Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 "Let's drop the packs and see if we can climb out of the whiteout..." Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 catbirdseat said: "Hey, this rock is loose..." Â Leading Air Guitar and hearing the sound of rocks being trundled from above you. Quote
gnibmilc Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 "...sorry...the windows are frozen shut!" shortly after partner drops ass in the front seat of his pickup truck while hurling down highway 89... Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 "What's that envelope on the windshield?" Â Â Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 Random climber walks up to you and asks, "Are you Trask from cc.com?" Quote
Dru Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 Gary_Yngve said: Random climber walks up to you and asks, "Are you Trask from cc.com?" Quote
schlangeschmecker Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 You're approaching Outerspace on a Tuesday morning, and you think you've got it to yourself, when suddenly you hear some female voice yelling, "Tension!" Â That's when you look up to see a party of three Mounties just starting the crux pitch and the female trip leader is already aiding the first 10 feet getting off of Two-Tree Ledge. Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 schlangeschmecker said: You're approaching Outerspace on a Tuesday morning, and you think you've got it to yourself, when suddenly you hear some female voice yelling, "Tension!" Â That's when you look up to see a party of three Mounties just starting the crux pitch and the female trip leader is already aiding the first 10 feet getting off of Two-Tree Ledge. ...and you turn to your partner and say, "Dude, would you settle for Orbit?" Quote
Thadsboner Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 "Sorry, washington is a dry state now, no booze for miles." Quote
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